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Posted

Thank you so much Constabulary. I will have a look at the machine tomorrow with the manual!

Sandy. 

  • 4 years later...
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Posted

Hi All

I have one of these machines and use it for sewing PVC, thick layers of acrylic cloth as well as heavy webbings on the corners of sails. I also do a sub-contract job for a local company when the machine is at full speed all day (apart from bobbin changes). It copes with this without any problems. I use it most days for one job or another.

The way that it's shown to be treaded is fine. The offset angle of the thread at the take-up arm is not a problem. I would suggest tapping on a piece of plastic tube half way along the arm to hold the thread up and out of the way otherwise it get caught on the work as it's manoeuvred under the arm.

Stitch length is adjusted by rolling the flywheel toward you with the button held in until it clicks into position. While still holding the button in roll the flywheel towards you to lengthen the stich or away from you to shorten. The amount of movement to change the stitch length is not too much so I always test on a piece of cloth before sewing the real thing.

I've set mine into a machine pit so that the table top is level with the floor. It means that I don't have to lift the work up to the machine. Therefore I don't have to stop the work pulling away sideways all the time, especialy on big sails where the weight of a corner patch will take charge and it's a struggle to keep it sewing straight. 

It's a great machine. I love it. I oil it before and after every use and sometimes, if the fabric is dry and creating dust, I'll oil the hook race on every bobbin change. So far, it runs trouble free (I've had it for over twenty years). I do get dust around the hook race but it's easily cleaned out with a stiff paint brush.

My machine was built around 1943 - 1944 but didn't see much use after WW2 as it was used to repair seat covers for British Rail until it came out of service with them in the early 1980's. I got hold if it in the late 1990's. It will see me out!

 

  • 1 year later...
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Posted

I would love to see some photos of the bobbin housing and how attaches to the machine. I'm restoring/converting at 133k16 to sew again and there is very little online about it.

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, jonnyharris85 said:

I would love to see some photos of the bobbin housing and how attaches to the machine. I'm restoring/converting at 133k16 to sew again and there is very little online about it.

At what point are you with your machine? With bobbin housing you mean the complete hook or just the bobbin case? If you have installed the hook on the drive shaft the bobbin case is held in place by a retainer and a bar that goes from left to right (positioning finger):

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1347-98419-bobbin-case-retainer-seiko-singer.html

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/103011-2528-singer-133k-bobbin-case-position-finger.html

You should stay in the thread you started so we do not have to ask for pictures again (if needed) and it is easier to follow your steps.

 

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
On 3/29/2016 at 7:16 PM, dikman said:

Sandy, that photo is the only one I could find that had a decent view of the thread path.I realise it's different in the base to yours, but I'm assuming they made variations of the machine for different uses? As for the 17 being the long arm version of the 8, I'm only repeating what I came across in my searching. I couldn't find a manual or parts list for the 8, and only a parts list for the 17 (at Hendersonsewing.com).

 

Can you post a closeup photo of the area around the tensioner assembly? It's intriguing as it's different to my machines.. Judging by the lack of responses there doesn't seem to be much info around about the 17.

 

looks like the long arm version of the  133K8.  rare machine!

glenn

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