hand sewing thick leather

[Birdman]

55 minutes ago, Martyn said:

There are lots of Heath Robinson tutorials on hand stitching leather, but Nigel shows the right way to do it. It takes a little practice, but it's not rocket science.

 

The alternative (and probably easier) method of making holes is to use a pricking chisel rather than an awl (or sometimes alongside an awl). These are designed to punch straight through the leather. If you want a recommendation that wont break the bank, look on ebay or amazon for stitching chisels and look for these (the black ones in the middle)...

 

As a saddler of some 28 years experience I have problems with the above statement, especially when it is directed to a novice!

PRICKING IRONS are just that, they are used to prick or mark the leathers surface to provide an accurate guide to the awl. They are not used to whack a hole through the leather. Doing so will not only damage the leather, but may result in tool damage as well!

The diamond shaped awl has been designed to slice and separate the fibers allowing the passage of the needles and thread, and then the leather 'falls back' and grips the thread.

And.... use a pony or clams to hold the work for stitching. Stitching by pushing an awl  down through leather onto a wood, leather or any other surface is a very crude and ineffective way of working.

The above posts regarding needle/thread/awl size and sharpness are far more relevant.

Gain stitching experience by  selecting projects that  develop stitching skills progressively rather than  jumping in at the deep end with the thick heavy duty stuff!

Regards etc.

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2016 by Birdman

[Martyn]

6 minutes ago, Birdman said:

As a saddler of some 28 years experience I have problems with the above statement, especially when it is directed to a novice!

PRICKING IRONS are just that, they are used to prick or mark the leathers surface to provide an accurate guide to the awl. They are not used to whack a hole through the leather. Doing so will not only damage the leather, but may result in tool damage as well!

I agree, that's why I said Pricking CHISEL and showed a picture of a pricking CHISEL. Pricking CHISELS are different to pricking irons. Unlike pricking irons, they have long, straight, thin prongs and ARE designed to whack a hole through the leather, which I'm sure you know. You probably just mis-read my comment, right?

 

Regards,

Martyn,

Edited April 6, 2016 by Martyn

[Birdman]

For me, the clue is in the word PRICKING.

But each to their own.

I know what produces neat, secure safe stitching, and what doesn't!

[Martyn]

8 minutes ago, Birdman said:

For me, the clue is in the word PRICKING.

But each to their own.

I know what produces neat, secure safe stitching, and what doesn't!

Nevertheless, the pricking chisels shown are designed to be hammered straight through the leather. Many like them. Even some traditional saddlers.

" And.... use a pony or clams to hold the work for stitching. Stitching by pushing an awl  down through leather onto a wood, leather or any other surface is a very crude and ineffective way of working. "

Actually, no it's not. I can pretty much guarantee that if you used a pricking chisel and pre-made your holes, your stitches per minute rate would go up. It is definitely a faster way to sew than making one hole at a time. You should try it - at least before slamming it.

Edited April 6, 2016 by Martyn

[Martyn]

I just want to add, I'm a huge fan of traditional saddle stitching, making the hole one at a time as you describe. I think it's the most versatile and elegant stitching method - but chisels are fine too. The end result is still a traditional saddle stitch in every way and particularly for those of us who dont have decades of practice, it's much easier to stitch in straight lines and get the back nearly as straight as the front.

[Birdman]

I can never foresee the time when I would use your described method of working on any piece of MY stitching work that would require secure safe stitching.

Or any of my stitching for that matter!

If you are hammering holes through the leather by punching, how does the leather close and grip? How do you consistently and continually tension your stitching as you work?

Yes, pre punching holes may increase  the stitching rate, but to the detriment of the quality of the stitching. Hand stitching is about the quality, not the quantity.

In my line , a person could be riding 600kg of horse doing 35mph,  AND out of control, and hoping like hell that the person who has done the stitching knows his job.  

Whacking holes through leather  before stitching is definitly not the way to do it.

Like I said, keep punching holes for lacing jobs.

[Martyn]

Well I'm not a saddler and I dont make tack, so I'll defer to your experience. I can tell you though, I cant see how it's detrimental. There are more ways of doing saddlery than the traditional English method and they are not wrong, they are just different. French stitching horses are different to English stitching horses, but they are not wrong, just different.

Look here...

 

Front...

 

back...

 

I sewed that as a test piece a couple of weeks ago and while certainly not perfect, it is pretty uniform and straight, front and back. I made the holes with a chisel and I know I absolutely could not get it that nice with an awl. I'd love to be able to, but I think we both know it takes years. 

 

I'm not the only one who thinks they have their place...

 

Edited April 6, 2016 by Martyn

[Birdman]

34 minutes ago, Martyn said:

 "I can tell you though, I cant see how it's detrimental."

 

The answer:

"If you are hammering holes through the leather by punching, how does the leather close and grip? How do you consistently and continually tension your stitching as you work?"

 

 

Edited April 6, 2016 by Birdman

[Martyn]

Just now, Birdman said:

 

The answer:

If you are hammering holes through the leather by punching, how does the leather close and grip? How do you consistently and continually tension your stitching as you work?

I havent had any issues, but again, I'm not a saddler.

Importantly, I think it's reasonable to assume the chap who made the first post, isn't making a saddle either. There is more to leatherwork than making tack.

[Birdman]

7 minutes ago, Martyn said:

I havent had any issues, but again, I'm not a saddler.

Importantly, I think it's reasonable to assume the chap who made the first post, isn't making a saddle either. There is more to leatherwork than making tack.

Agreed. 

But learning to stitch properly from the outset is easier than correcting "bad habits" at a later stage.

Just for the record, here are two 'front and back' snaps (taken this evening with a phone camera) of my first ever piece of work when a student in September 1998.

It is  a 3.5mm bridle leather belt,  the double hand stitching is in two (now faded) different colours of 3/25 linen, spacing 8 and 10 spi. using  Dixon pricking irons.

The long stitching runs on this and similar pieces are taught to get the students work to be consistent both front and back as well as with correct tension.