Choosing a sewing machine

[WolfteverGunleather]

After many years of hand stitching with some use of a Tippmann Boss, I'm preparing to buy a powered sewing machine. I've spent many weeks, possibly months, researching my options and narrowing my choices, and would welcome some answers to some specific questions I have.

First, some context: My focus is on holsters and belts, primarily concealment and sporting holsters and heavy dress/casual belts for carry. I'm not looking for one machine to do everything (garments, wallets, cases, holsters, bags, belts). I realize any machine has its "sweet spot" and I'm wanting to focus on what I do the most of. The range would be two layers of 6/7 oz. veg tan on the low end to 4 layers of 9/10 oz. veg tan on the high end.

At this point I'm looking primarily at a Cobra class 4, a Cowboy CB 4500, or a Campbell lockstitch.

(1) In the opinion of those of you on with the appropriate experience, is the Campbell worth over twice as much $ in terms of stitch appearance, stitch quality, machine durability, changeover/setup difficulty, or any other factor?

(2) Is the learning curve on a Campbell machine too steep for a novice sewing machine operator?

(3) Is there a significant difference in changeover/setup complexity or difficulty for a one machine shop between the Campbell vs. the Cobra/Cowboy?

(4) How big an issue is it that the Campbell machine does not reverse to lock a seam?

Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge and experience!

[Wizcrafts]

If you are a true novice to industrial sewing machines, especially leather sewing machines like the ones you've listed, stick to the 441 clones. They have a short learning curve and lots of fellow users to assist you over the humps.

If you still think you want to get a Campbell Lockstitch machine, go to Yoakum Texas, book a motel room for a 5 day week, Go to Campbell Randall and take one on one instructions on the setup, threading, adjusting, oiling and operation of the machine. Don't leave town until you are certain you can change settings, stitch length, needles and awls, thread types and sizes and leather thicknesses and still get great results without calling anybody for help. And, learn how to lock the starting and ending stitches despite not having reverse.

The Campbell Lockstitch uses a separate awl and needle. A different set is needed for each change in thread size. Feet, bobbins and accessories are costly. Few people on this forum own these machines and those who do are usually busy sewing harnesses and holsters all day. Even fewer industrial sewing machine dealers have any experience with these machines (which were designed during the late 1890s and early 1900s).

In the end, the Campbell will produce a top and bottom stitch that most closely "resembles" a hand stitching awl result (e.g., Speedy Stitcher). It can sew through plywood and even pennies. But, if you are not in a position to take in-person lessons from the company, move along to a simpler machine.

If you find a Campbell, or Randall, or Union Lockstitch machine for sale privately, only buy it if the seller offers to demonstrate the complete operation of the machine. A non-functional or totally unadjusted needle and awl machine can be costly and very time consuming to repair and bring into working order.

FYI: The Juki 441 clones are now found in most successful leather makers' shops. They are half the price or less of needle and awl harness stitchers, easy to learn to operate and use relatively inexpensive needles. You can learn to operate one at home in a few days, just watching videos and reading our forum.

[WolfteverGunleather]

Wiz,

Thanks so much for the thorough response and great advice! I really appreciate you taking the time and sharing your knowledge.

Phil

[kwalk20]

Just an FYI: Campbell-Randall has completed their move to Conroe, Tx. 

[WolfteverGunleather]

Kwalk,

Looks like I'll be passing on the Campbell machine, but thanks for the info.

Phil

[daveottawa]

"..... book a motel room for a 5 day week."   

[kwalk20]

FWIW, they have other machines too. That's where I purchased my Seiko compound feed from.

[kwalk20]

I don't think you need a weeks stay. I think Wiz was referring to the complexity of the CRL, to be sure to get thorough training on it, but if that's not what you're after you should be good wth a regular visit.

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, kwalk20 said:

I don't think you need a weeks stay. I think Wiz was referring to the complexity of the CRL, to be sure to get thorough training on it, but if that's not what you're after you should be good wth a regular visit.

Correct. Most new sewers can learn to operate and adjust a walking foot machine in one day. After a week it should be old hat. And, help is found on all kinds of forums and from industrial sewing machine dealers (if you buy something from them).