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[Shorts]

For some reason when airbrushing bison brown on leather, it always comes out with a slight sheen and look more like metallic bronze.

I see that on Bison Brown as well. I usually spray through that until it no longer has that metallic color and ends nice and dark.

The coal black does get that blued/red metallic look as well.

I've found the following coat of Resolene darkens everything to its proper color.

[Twosons]

... a simple tankless compressor could be had for not too much money, like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92403

Do not waste your time with canned air like the paasche basic kits, or the preval sprayer. You will spend more money on canned air than a compressor.

That's the same one I use to refinish my firearms. Works like a champ. I caught it on one of their sales and used a 20% off coupon. It ended up running about $35ish.

I hated the canned air route. It is expensive and the cans freeze up.

I love that 225 holster. That color is outstanding.

Edited December 24, 2008 by Twosons

[Peterk]

Thanks all!

To darken the Bison Brown, or any color for that matter, a light coat of neatsfoot oil does it for me. Just can't put too much otherwise the holster is useless.

[MADMAX22]

Hey Peter I was wondering for your inlays do you just glue everything. I see you didnt stitch the top portion, is the bottom half stitched and the top glued.

[Peterk]

Hey Peter I was wondering for your inlays do you just glue everything. I see you didnt stitch the top portion, is the bottom half stitched and the top glued.

The inlays shown through the "windows" are just large enough for the windows. The inside of the sheath is lined with the same faux allegator with the glazed side against the knife and the smaller window pieces are glued flesh to flesh to the liner.

The glazed allegator-print side would not stick to anything, including the flesh side of the outer cowhide, using any glue, so I had to glue another larger piece of faux allegator's flesh to the flesh of cowhide, and just use smaller pieces shown through the windows. Don't know if that makes any sense, but no, I did not sew it, and the cement is holding the pieces strong. This won't be for hard use as I will be recommending my Professor to use the nylon sheath that came with the knife during daily chores on his Elk Farm, and use this leather sheath for special BBQ events.

[MADMAX22]

The inlays shown through the "windows" are just large enough for the windows. The inside of the sheath is lined with the same faux allegator with the glazed side against the knife and the smaller window pieces are glued flesh to flesh to the liner.

The glazed allegator-print side would not stick to anything, including the flesh side of the outer cowhide, using any glue, so I had to glue another larger piece of faux allegator's flesh to the flesh of cowhide, and just use smaller pieces shown through the windows. Don't know if that makes any sense, but no, I did not sew it, and the cement is holding the pieces strong. This won't be for hard use as I will be recommending my Professor to use the nylon sheath that came with the knife during daily chores on his Elk Farm, and use this leather sheath for special BBQ events.

Thanks for the info, pretty sure I understand it.

Depending on what you used to glue it it should hold up just fine even for the rough stuff. I know that when I use the white leather weld stuff or contact cement if I do it right I need to allmost destroy the leather to get the two parts seperated.