Members gavingear Posted December 30, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 Can you explain the attachment of the loops in more detail? I'm working on my 1st IWB and can't picture a good way to attach the loops at or near the same spot I have the snaps. For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops... Quote
Members JRB Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops... I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work. Quote ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Members gavingear Posted December 30, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work. Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post) Quote
Members JRB Posted December 30, 2008 Members Report Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post) So rather than use the post that came w/the snap you're using a rivet post? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none What size snaps and rivets are you using? Where did you get them? I measured I my total thickness (w/o a spacer) is about 1/2". Edited December 30, 2008 by JRB Quote ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Members Gibbles Posted April 21, 2009 Members Report Posted April 21, 2009 I made one of these for my PF9, and it carries very well, the only change I would suggest is on the back side. on the sweat guard, I found that if you cut it higher on the grip closer to the slide the gun will draw better. To get an idea what I'm talking about.. (I wish I could find my camera in the moving mess...) Grip the gun with your pointer finger and thumb, like your getting ready to shoot... then do the same thing like your going to draw... the sweat guard kinda blocks the thumb from getting a good grip. I hope that makes sense, once I can find my camera I'll have to take a picture of my edit. Quote
Members Bronson Posted April 21, 2009 Members Report Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). You can also use a 6/32 T-nut with an appropriate lenght 6/32 counter sunk screw instead of the stud post. Various length t-nuts can be had in the bulk hardware section of most any hardware store and you can grind the barrel down if they're too long. Bronson Edited April 21, 2009 by Bronson Quote
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