Members cowboycolonel Posted September 18, 2016 Members Report Posted September 18, 2016 Grew up in Caledonia. 29 years in the Air Force and now in CA. The saddle I showed you (Cliff Wade tree with straight up cantle) took about 100 hours to actually build with about another 100 hours to tool and finish. It's built to be cowboy-used, so it is very strong and comfortable. Parade-quality and museum -quality will take longer, as would a grain-side out seat. Quote
Members Dwight Posted September 18, 2016 Members Report Posted September 18, 2016 2 hours ago, cowboycolonel said: Grew up in Caledonia. 29 years in the Air Force and now in CA. The saddle I showed you (Cliff Wade tree with straight up cantle) took about 100 hours to actually build with about another 100 hours to tool and finish. It's built to be cowboy-used, so it is very strong and comfortable. Parade-quality and museum -quality will take longer, as would a grain-side out seat. Thank you, . . . I navigate through the Caledonia area from time to time, my son lives up near New Winchester, . . . off 294. Again, . . . toying with the idea of making one for the leather shop, . . . it would showcase some of my work, . . . whereas my old Jumbo is just a fixture in there. Thanks again for the info, . . . gonna have to mull this for a while. I especially like your design as it is very near the Jumbo in design, . . . and IT IS a comfortable saddle. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members cowboycolonel Posted September 19, 2016 Members Report Posted September 19, 2016 If you're serious about this, I suggest you get Al Stohlman's Encyclopedia of saddlemaking (3 Vols) and read Vol 1 prior to even buying leather. You'll only need Vols 1 and 2, but the whole set is cheaper and will be easier to sell if you decide to. There are many "right" ways to build a saddle, and many "wrong ways" as well. Comfort only counts if it is comfortable for the horse as well. Symmetry is crucial - don't worry so much about weight. Mine have been weighing between 28 and 35 pounds, but my first saddle weighed ove 60 pounds ( not one I made). The maker said it was for strength, but you can get a strong build at a lot less weight. If it's only going to "ride the pine" then you can cut corners, but I wouldn't, as it would have no sale value and, after all, would have your maker's mark on it, right? Sound off if you need any help at all. Rick Quote
Members buckarooTB Posted February 7, 2017 Author Members Report Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks for all the replies, really gave me a lot of ideas Sorry I didn't reply sooner Quote
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