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Posted

There is absolutely nothing wrong with stitching a single thickness for decoration and to keep it from stretching. Get the flesh side all cleaned up and slicked then cut a stitching groove on the back the same as you do on the front....then stitch away.

I've done lots of belts this way with heavier leather than the 7-8 oz you are using. And actually I wouldn't have a problem lining the 7-8 oz with up to 4 oz lining leather, but 2-3 oz would be best...........but that's just me.

Without an actual splitter it will be very hard to keep it a completely consistent thickness.

Just my .02, ymmv.

Tim

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Posted (edited)

Hey folks....I'm in Japan. Belt is to be presented on the 9th of Jan and came about at the Christmas shindig. It's a bit of a last minute request. So I'm on a deadline with this one. Ideally I have several weights of leather on hand in a nice roomy shop. But unfortunately not possibly right now ;)

I can get the belt finished up quick. It's the stitching that takes me several days as I do all my stitching by hand.

I appreciate all the suggestions. They will definitely come in handy. I'm moving back to the States at the end of the month and I will finally have my workroom and supplies closer at hand and better setup :) Thanks yall!

Edited by Shorts
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Posted

Hey Short, The best idea you got was from Timbo. I've also stitched many single layer belts, spur straps, etc. just for decoration. If you're in a big hurry and don't have a splitter, you don't have much choice.

Phil Green

Wild Horse Saddlery

Phil Green

Vaquero Saddlery

Eastern Sierra Nevada

VaqueroSaddlery.com

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Phil - I'm going to take that advice from Timbo :specool:

What will work out wonderfully is that the stitching will stay white and remain contrast for the belt color (a brown to match her boots).

It is much quicker to stitch a single layer than it is to stitch double.

And I'm also going to take this quick order as a lesson to be better prepared for the future! How this order came up was I was wearing my belt to a party. You know, a great way to advertise is to use your stuff. Well, a friend asked about it. Then asked if I'd make one for a mutual friend of ours. She even wants a few for her sons and husband (after our move though) lol

Edited by Shorts
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Posted (edited)

Here's an old man's perspective. You're in Japan....7/8 oz leather is all you have (that's your biggest problem).

!. See if you can find anything remotely close to a shoe repair shop. If so they might have a hand crank splitter or a 5 way. Take that 7/8 oz down to about 2/3 then glue up the 7/8 to the 2/3 and you have a decent weight for a belt. or..............................................................................

.................

2. Make a single ply 7/8 oz. belt which in my opinion is too light for a belt, but if it is to be a fashion dress belt it might be okay. I would not stitch it if it was me. Hand stitching is way to corse for a really dressy belt. It would need tp not heavier than #69 thread and about 10 stitches to the inch minimum.......so my vote for a good looking belt would be NO STITCH. or......................................................................

3. Talk the customer into waiting until you get home where you can do it right and then mail it to them.

Hope everything works out for you.

Paul

Edited by sheathmaker

Paul long-----108 Briarwood Ln. W-----Kerrville, TX--78028------830 367 5536-- pfl@cebridge.net

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Posted

Interesting ideas Paul. I know a few shoe repair shops. Thank you.

The belt is a birthday gift for a friend from a friend. I'll make the deadline, it'll just make the time between now and then a little exciting ;)

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Posted

The belt, my dremel and I spent some intimate time together last night. Let's just say, it was a messy affair :whistle: ...lesson learned

I got the belt down lighter than 7/8oz and I'll be stitching the single layer next. (I thought that the lighter weight of a singled layer stitched belt would be less stiff and easier to wear casually. Or am I wrong and be better to stick with a straight 7/8oz singled layer stitched belt?)

Ok, moving to my next question about the dye and finish. I normally dye after stitching. And when I use white thread, the thread takes the dye. This time, I would like to keep the thread white. Would there be any harm in dyeing (and sealing?) the belt BEFORE stitching? I'm thinking that this will allow the thread to stay white for a nice contrast effect (I'm asking the customer tonight which she'd actually prefer for stitching color but I'm asking these questions now so that I'm ready to go to work asap).

Note: I'm doing a quick test sample of the above method to take tonight for inspection

Sorry for all the questions on the build. This is just really my first local order with friends for customers and I'm just trying to get everything just right. I hope I'm not overthinking things!

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Posted (edited)

Do all your stitch layout as you normally would, including awling the holes. That way, when you dye it, the holes will have the same color as the rest of the belt. Let dry, stitch it up, then seal it (presuming you're using a clear-ish sealer like Resolene), that way the thread gets sealed but not colored. I'll presume that you'll also want to smooth out the flesh side, so also do that before sealing.

You know all this, you've done it before, and gone through the process enough times to be comfortable with it. "You can do eeet!"

A word of caution: take breaks! Don't work so long on it that you get tired or inattentive and make a mistake. Take a five minute break and WRITE DOWN YOUR STEPS. Then just follow the instructions!:)

Seriously, don't let tiredness mess up your project. Stand up and stretch, walk around, go do a Kata. Do anything that gets you moving and loosened up, because the concentration efforts will turn into physical tension.

Edited by TwinOaks

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Mike :spoton: You're right about the tension and concentrating and taking breaks. Many mistakes are avoidable!

Edit added -

Here's that process in the sample here. I used the single needle saddle stitch so its got that goofy tread pattern in the stitch holes from the angle of the thread instead of that normal consistent thread overlap.

beltsampler.jpg

Edited by Shorts

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