horselady21 Report post Posted July 27, 2016 Hi, everyone! I have designed and am making kidskin belt bags/small cross body bags. The leather is pretty thin kidskin. The main body of it is no problem, but right now, the flap is 3 layers (lining, underlay of exotic, and outer kidskin) with an exposed edge. I didn't like the finish on the first one, just trying to burnish it like it was a heavier leather, and was looking for ideas on finishing edges on thinner work. Any ideas appreciated, pics always helpful! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted July 27, 2016 I use edge paint on kidskin with good success. http://www.buckleguy.com/leather-edge-paint/ One layer is really hard, but three layers should be reasonable. The picture is 3 - 4 oz leather paired with kidskin. So thicker than you're talking about. Using edge paint does require some experimentation, but it's worth it. And there's no hard burnishing to deform the leather, just light sanding and multiple thin layers of paint. ' Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
horselady21 Report post Posted July 27, 2016 Ooohhh...Very , very nice! I have never used edge paint, but you sold me! That is beautiful work! And just the exact look I want (although I suspect it will take a lot of practice to get that good at it!) Thank you so much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted July 27, 2016 Just keep in mind this stuff gives you exactly as much as you put into it. Sometimes I loose patience and decide I'm not priced for glass perfection and you'll still be able to see a line. But you can get rid of it with another two or three sanding sessions and coats of paint. For example I lost patience here: Basically, I do as much as I have patience for. Some other guys here on the forum are more painstaking and get better results than I do. The method I use is this: -1 coat of Tandy edge agent to harden the edge (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-5oz-Bottle-GLOSS-TOP-COAT-Professional-LEATHER-EDGE-PAINT-2810-30-Tandy-Paints-/221133118459?hash=item337c8f9bfb). It's actually Fenice and Tandy doesn't sell it anymore, I think. I dare say Buckleguy has something similar, but this is what I had before I bought the buckle guy paint. -1-2 thin coats of edge paint, let dry for 2-3 hours before sanding and reapplying. -Sand with 220 grit paper (or finer) -apply another coat -sand -repeat coating and sanding until you're happy. Or exasperated. Whichever. -let sit until the finish has hardened for a day or two. -then use a hot iron of some kind to melt wax/paraffin mix on the edge. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WAXLPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OJQDI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with a temperature controller. There are plenty of more expensive options out there if you look. (alternately, someone else I know uses wax on a buffing wheel.) After that hardens, buff it off with a piece of canvas or jean. The finish is supposed to be fully cured by day 3, I think it says. The hardest part is not letting the paint bleed over. I use a thin flat spatula tool for thicker leathers and a just a round ended pick (like a nail) for thinner leathers. I've tried saddle soap, gum trag, resolene, and a wax/paraffin mix, and once I started using edge paint I haven't looked back. I've only been using it for about six months, though, I've still to see how well my edges last over time. However, I know that my other edges weren't lasting with all the other methods I tried, so anything would have been an improvement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted July 27, 2016 P.S. do not let the edge get stained with glue or saddle soap or any other kind of edge finish. It will not stick to wax or any of those burnishing compounds. The first time I tried it I applied it to an already burnished edge and was so annoyed when it peeled off that I didn't try it again for a few months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
horselady21 Report post Posted July 28, 2016 Thanks SO much for the tutorial! I am stopping at Tandy on my way out to vacation tomorrow. They have the gloss agent in the Eco flow brand now. I don't know if it is the same stuff but will ask. The bottle looks identical except for the label. I didn't realize how much time and effort goes into doing edges! I never paid that much attention to them before now. But you are right- a good finish and a great finish makes all the difference. You have been a God send! Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted July 28, 2016 I've never used eco-flo brand, and cannot vouch for it in any way. I can't even see what's in it (from the moment I have), so I can't compare. In general, eco-flo doesn't have the best reputation, I'd do some research here on the forum before stocking up on colors from them. Buckle Guy has edge "primer" (http://www.buckleguy.com/ar6250-clear-primer/) that I would bet is probably the same stuff as the Tandy stuff I bought. Both are Italian, anyway. If you get the buckle guy paint, definitely get the primer that matches, rather than an eco-flo product that is supposed to go with eco-flo paints. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites