Waterproofing leather

[gdonovan]

Good Day,

Embarking to make a large leather flight carry-on type bag. Will make it using natural cow hide. Been wanting to do this for awhile but the cost of the leather has held me back.

I live in a rainy climate and waterproofing is a must. Would anyone have tried and true experience regarding 1) a long lasting waterproofing technique that 2) stays on the bag and doesn't transfer onto clothing 3) is not sticky and 4) won't need to be reapplied regularly or, ideally, ever again.

I don't so much care if it darkens the leather (I like that look actually) as long as it does so consistently, throughout the piece and will not rot wax thread.

Not asking for much hey? Thanks for your feedback in advance, I really really appreciate it.

Greg

Edited July 27, 2016 by gdonovan

[Halitech]

Due to the nature of leather, making it truly waterproof is almost impossible. Your best bet would be to use an oil tanned or latigo type leather as they would be the most water resistant. However, they are not toolable, dyable or wet formable.

 

If you are wanting to tool or dye, you can try something like snow proof to give it a water resistance

[gdonovan]

Thanks Daryl. Much appreciated.

[nrk]

On 7/27/2016 at 1:23 PM, gdonovan said:

Good Day,

Embarking to make a large leather flight carry-on type bag. Will make it using natural cow hide. Been wanting to do this for awhile but the cost of the leather has held me back.

I live in a rainy climate and waterproofing is a must. Would anyone have tried and true experience regarding 1) a long lasting waterproofing technique that 2) stays on the bag and doesn't transfer onto clothing 3) is not sticky and 4) won't need to be reapplied regularly or, ideally, ever again.

I don't so much care if it darkens the leather (I like that look actually) as long as it does so consistently, throughout the piece and will not rot wax thread.

Not asking for much hey? Thanks for your feedback in advance, I really really appreciate it.

Greg

I don't exactly remember the technique, but it's almost possible.

In general, you need a kind of 'magic' cream, basically made of beeswax and oils, and a mix of all of those. Heating+creaming, heating+creaming.. (in the head. my head ^_^ )

Try to google some.
take care

[TinkerTailor]

I have stuff waterproofed with both multiple coats of 50/50 resolene, as well as items that i have used snoseal. These are items that i use on my bicycle in Vancouver rain.

The resolene items are totally waterproof, however they are a bit shiny. I like the snoseal better to feel and look at but it will show water droplets after a while in the rain. I reapply the snoseal every fall. I have also combined them. I have resolene-ed items to a lesser extent and then snoseal over top. Not as much soaks in but what does soak in just helps a little more. This method keeps the leather from looking plastic, which pure resolene has a tendency to If you do this, buff it good to take off any excess wax on top of the resolene. This may rub off or collect dirt.

If i am out for a short trip, the water beads up and rolls off, if I am out for a while, the leather ends up looking like it has absorbed some water, but an hour inside and it is dry again. I found that a good warm room at 25-30 degrees Celsius will help the snoseal soak in. You want to apply it in until it stops soaking in.

None of these items are even mildewy much less rotten after a few years of use.

 

Edited October 10, 2016 by TinkerTailor
stupid double post....