Is gum trag the worst stuff ever?

[Boriqua]

I think I am the only person who loves the stuff. Yeah accidentally getting it on the smooth leather means its ruined but my edges come out pretty nice in quick time and I buy the stuff my the quart. I apply it to the edge with a q tip somewhat heavy and then using my fingertip work it into the edge back and forth into the fibers. I let it almost dry completely which takes a few seconds but never go at it wet and then I take a piece of horn and a few rubs and it glistens and is nice and smooth. I usually finish my projects with a coat of supersheen on the edge before it leaves here.

I get a better edge using glycerin and water but have ruined some projects by getting the edge to wet and going at it to soon and then turning the edge mushy. The glycerin and water takes me longer to do than gum.

[OnePivot]

Im curious how your trag'd edges compare to regular watered edges, or saddle soaped edges. What is the advantage you're seeing? Is it an edge longevity thing? I have some nice edges, but my pieces are days to weeks old at best, Im not sure how any of this will hold up.

[msdeluca]

I've been experimenting with a synthetic gum trag from http://goodsjapan.com/ using pretty much the method you've described with very good results.

No smell... doesn't seem to bleed or affect dying of surface leather.  Comes in clear, brown, and black.  I trim my edges close with a knife, then wet them and let dry.  This seems to allow for better edge sanding; don't get the edges curling up at the surface.  Edge bevel, then dye the edge and let dry.  Then synthetic gum trag and let edge set up (don't burnish wet).  I then burnish with a cocobolo wood burnisher chucked into a drill press.  Fine sand where necessary and then burnish again, this time with a 50/50 mix of paraffin and beeswax.

On 8/9/2016 at 8:05 PM, NVLeatherWorx said:

Working with Gum Trag takes some time to get the hang of, as is knowing the precise time to burnish your edges (regardless of whether or not you use Gum Trag or just plain water).  The fine tuned elements of this craft (and trade) don't come within a few months or even within the first couple of years.  I have been using these things and doing this trade for over 40 years and yet I still find something new to add to my skills and techniques, that is what separates the various skill levels of craftsmanship.  If you treat Gum Trag much the same as you would the water method (apply it and then let it start to set/dry up a bit) and then go at it with your burnishing tool vigorously (you can't get a good edge going at it like you are in a School Zone, gotta be the Autobahn) you will start to see the results that you may be looking for.  It just takes practice to find the right mix of time, speed, and success.

Keep at it and give it a chance and good luck.

[Nuttish]

We use gum arabic from the spice shop mixed to a thicker consistency than trag or Wyo-Slik. It polishes quickly and nicely with a felt wheel at relatively low speeds and little pressure. 

[bikermutt07]

After reading nvleatgerworks post I tried it again. It did pretty well. I very carefully painted a thin line on. Then I waited about 5 minutes for each piece. Here's how it did.

The grey is my fault for using the wrong sandpaper, but the edge is fairly slick for it being a single layer of 4 ounce. 

[OnePivot]

I'll give it another shot. I was letting it dry for 20 seconds.

[Michael Sheldon]

For me, water, saddle soap or trag, I apply, then wait until it's still just barely damp.

With trag, I usually cut it 50% with water.

[bikermutt07]

I tried the saddle soap and then wax trick and it was to grabby.