Aniline finish vs. Drum dyed ? which is best ?

[CustomDoug]

I've always heard that generally speaking, Aniline finished leathers are superior because they are usually reserved for full grain hides, and also that cheaper leathers would have a white/blue/gray center. But after receiving some samples of Aniline dyed leather from one of the better French tanneries.. it dawned on me that these aniline finished leathers are not dyed all the way through - well I knew aniline wouldn't be drum dyed so I'm not sure what I was expecting! The samples I got are partially described as : " A  full chrome French calf is tanned in the traditional French way with an aniline casein finish producing leather fit for a King! "  - so is the light colored center not an indicator of cheap leather when it's aniline dyed or is drum dyed a better leather to search out? 

Doug C

 

 

[OnePivot]

Besides the coloring, how is the quality of the leather?

My understanding is that aniline is a process reserved for better leather, and its the quality of leather that makes it desirable, not so much the coloring.

I could be mistaken, but I think semi aniline leather is fully dyed and more uniform. It might be what you're after?

[CustomDoug]

I mean the leather itself looks nice on the outside.. it's smooth w/ no pronounced graining - but the gray center just reminds me of lesser leathers I've used in the past. This is what had me wondering if this is a normal characteristic for "Aniline Leathers". Not that the center is all that important on a finished product I guess. Which brings up another question I've been mulling over - do Aniline finished leathers wear harder/longer without wearing thru, or would you eventually get wear-thru on an item that's constantly used (like pigments dyed leather)?  

Doug C

 

[tontotex]

Hi Doug,

You might be speaking of Box Calf, which D'annonay produces. They are owned by Hermes.

ac

[Weaver Leather Supply]

What I understand about the dyeing process is that aniline is more the type of dye used.  Not the process.  For instance you can have an aniline drum dyed leather.  And neither aniline nor drum dyed necessarily means struck through (the color is fully penetrated through the center).  Aniline is the type of dye (it is translucent and allows blemishes/wrinkles/scars show through) and drum dyed is the process of dye application.  So, you are correct in that most people wanting a full grain leather wants an aniline dye so that you see the natural characteristics.  What you see in the center is not necessarily cheap leather.  A lot of harness and english bridle leathers are not struck through so they will have a natural center.  I am not 100% sure what allows a drum dyed leather to be struck through.  I believe it is a combination of the ph level and time in the drums.  But all drum dyed leather should have some penetration into the fibers.  

Now in your chrome tan leather that center will be a bluish gray, which is the color of a chrome tanned hide before finishing.  The alternative to drum dying is spray dying in which you can apply an aniline dye but there will be very little or zero color penetration.  Then you have the alternative to aniline which is pigment.  Pigment is non translucent and will cover blemishes and defects.  A combination of the 2 is a semi-aniline.  A lot of chrome tanned leather is top grain (surface grain has been buffed off to remove defects) and then pigmented to give it uniformity (and you can use low grade hides).