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To avoid hijacking another thread I started this one.

I just bought an airbrush, a badger 150-5, and I have a small 3/4 gallon tank with, piston type compressor. I'm looking for some basic instructions and suggestions from all the airbrushers out there.

Thanks.

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Congratulations, Marlon! I use my airbrush for lots of different applications. What kind of spraying are you interested in doing?

Kate

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Congratulations, Marlon! I use my airbrush for lots of different applications. What kind of spraying are you interested in doing?

Kate

I'd like to do overall dyeing (solid color for large pieces), blended (shaded eges) I guess this would be called shadowing, Not sure of the terminology. Nothing really fancy, but I thing this will help to get more even coverage and not saturate the leather with dye.

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Great, spraying a wash down is about the easiest thing to do with an airbrush. But to get used to the dual-action control, try this:

After hooking up the brush and turning up the air pressure (I usually use around 20-25lbs. for spraying larger areas), hold the brush in front of a piece of scrap leather and press the trigger straight down. If the brush is adjusted correctly, no dye should come out, just air. Notice that the harder you press the trigger down, the more air comes out. You can adjust for more or less air as you spray.

TriggerOperation01_600.jpg

Trigger is neutral.

TriggerOperation02_600.jpg

Trigger is down; very small movement; only air coming out.

Now, with the trigger pressed down (and air coming out), slowly pull back on the trigger. You'll see a little stream of dye come out that gradually widens as the trigger move back.

TriggerOperation03_600.jpg

Trigger is back; air and dye comes out (assuming there is any dye in the cup).

Now, try moving the airbrush across the scrap piece, and starting and stopping the dye stream as it moves across. You should get a line that starts very thin, becomes thick in the middle, then thins down to nothing at the end.

TriggerPractice_600.jpg

Try this a few times, and that will help you get the hang of how the brush works. The more control you get, the smoother, straighter, and more even you should be able to make the lines. (You can tell I'm a little rusty, since I've been doing mostly hand brushing in the last year.)

To do a solid wash, hold the tip about 4" from the work, use a fairly wide stream (I open mine up all the way), and spray in light, slightly overlapping passes. Use multiple passes over an area; apply the dye in amounts the leather can absorb right away. Otherwise, you'll get dripping.

ColorWash01_600.jpg

Working across one "row" in a circular motion. Notice the 90 deg. angle of the brush to the work.

ColorWash02_600.jpg

The next row slightly overlaps the previous.

ColorWash03_600.jpg

How it looks after one pass. The color is very light (this is black dye I'm working with here), and a little uneven. Not to worry, the following passes will even it all out.

ColorWash04_600.jpg

I like to turn my work with each pass.

ColorWash05_600.jpg

Just finishing the final pass. It's quite dark now, and nice and even.

One other thing: I hope you are using a respirator when you spray, especially if you're using any spirit-based dyes.

I've added some photos of some of this stuff... more soon...

Kate

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Maybe I should post some photos of some of this stuff... more soon...

Kate

I'd appreciate that too, Kate. Pictures do make it easier!

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I use a charcoal type filter that looks like a surgeons mask, but not the type that looks like a gas mask. Should I get one of those? Also, pictures would probably do a world of good!!

Thanks for the suggestion. Also, what about ventilation? How do you vent your spraying activities, especially when it's cold? I have a large room (closed in garage that's about 400 sq. ft) but other than opening a window or two....

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marlon one thing that helps me when i spray...i got a large round shop floor type fan...i put the fan in the window on hurricane level (high) blowing towards outside...with another window or door slightly open...it creates a nice vacuum and works surprisingly well...

darryl

Edited by sodapop

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I use a charcoal type filter that looks like a surgeons mask, but not the type that looks like a gas mask. Should I get one of those? Also, pictures would probably do a world of good!!

You need a respirator that will filter organic vapors, such as this one:

3MRespirator_600.jpg

The particle filters will not protect you from solvent vapors. It's not as much of a concern with water-based dyes, but I don't want to breath anything but clean air, so I use the respirator even with them.

Also, what about ventilation? How do you vent your spraying activities, especially when it's cold? I have a large room (closed in garage that's about 400 sq. ft) but other than opening a window or two....

When I can, I open a window or door and get the fan blowing towards my work area. In the winter, I just crack the door open and turn up the fan a little higher. The ideal thing would be to get a bench-top spray booth (something like this), which is what I plan to do, eventually. Then I can keep the door shut and throw away the respirator.

Kate

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marlon one thing that helps me when i spray...i got a large round shop floor type fan...i put the fan in the window on hurricane level (high) blowing towards outside...with another window or door slightly open...it creates a nice vacuum and works surprisingly well...

That works a lot better than what I have to do. Just wish I had a window next to my bench.

Kate

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Also, forgot to mention earlier, if you haven't bought a holder for your airbrush yet, here's a possible alternative:

Holder_600.jpg

I just bought a pair of plain wardrobe hooks and mounted them to my bench offset from each other to keep the color cup level when resting in it. I think it ran me all of a couple of bucks.

Kate

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Marlon asked earlier about techniques for shading edges with an airbrush. Here's a quick series of photos I put together to show how to do that. It's also quite easy to do, even for someone without a lot of airbrushing experience. (Sorry about the quality of the photos - I was too lazy to set up the tripod to do this series, and was holding the camera in one hand while I worked with the other. Bad idea - won't do it again. Anyway...)

I just used a piece of badly abused scrap for this demo.

Shading01_600.jpg

To begin, I'm putting a thin line of color around the very edge of the part. This can be done for one or more passes, depending upon how dark you want the shading.

Shading02_600.jpg

Then, start spraying a gradually wider pattern...

Shading03_600.jpg

...and wider. The color will be darkest around the edges, and gradually and smoothly fade towards the center.

Shading04_600.jpg

If you want a little more darkness around the edges, to give it almost a burnt or even charred appearance, add a thin line around the edges of your color with something darker mixed in. I mixed a few drops of black dye in with my tan.

Shading05_600.jpg

Finished. If you use antique, make it darker.

Shading06_600.jpg

Kate

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Also, forgot to mention earlier, if you haven't bought a holder for your airbrush yet, here's a possible alternative:

Holder_600.jpg

I just bought a pair of plain wardrobe hooks and mounted them to my bench offset from each other to keep the color cup level when resting in it. I think it ran me all of a couple of bucks.

Kate

thats a good idea'r there kate...i'm gonna use that one since i was one that didn't buy a holder either...

darryl

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hi marlon, i am sure you will have great fun with the airbrush....first thing make sure you know how to completely disassemble the brush and put it back together again.... if you google free airbrush lessons, you will find lots of sites to help you start... good control is extremely important and will give you a wider use of the brush.

cheers

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Thanks for all the replies.

Kate, a special thanks for taking the time to take a post photos of your explinations. Makes it a lot easier to understand. :thankyou:

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My pleasure, sir. That should get you started. And I second Leatheroo's suggestions about all the great free info on airbrushing there is out on the web. And about taking it apart and cleaning.

Kate

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Marlon...

I bought a Badger 100 with a 5 gallon tank and a compressor many years ago. It still works as well today as the day I brought it home. I would buy a Badger 150 anytime. I think it's a great product. Get yourself a couple extra needles and make a spray booth. You won't regret that move.

If you spray solvents, then remember that you are putting highly flammable material into aerosol dispersion in your shop or house. Many of these solvents have remarkably low flash points. Some can even flash off the flourescents. When they flash, they basically explode into flames. So be EXTREMELY careful about spraying solvents and other flammables. If you do any volume of this, you would need explosion proof lights and explosion proof fan motors... an expensive proposition. Best practice is to only spray water-soluable stuff. If you must spray flammables do so only with LOTS of ventilation and no ignition sources anywhere near your spray booth.

Good luck!

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Marlon...

I bought a Badger 100 with a 5 gallon tank and a compressor many years ago. It still works as well today as the day I brought it home. I would buy a Badger 150 anytime. I think it's a great product. Get yourself a couple extra needles and make a spray booth. You won't regret that move.

If you spray solvents, then remember that you are putting highly flammable material into aerosol dispersion in your shop or house. Many of these solvents have remarkably low flash points. Some can even flash off the flourescents. When they flash, they basically explode into flames. So be EXTREMELY careful about spraying solvents and other flammables. If you do any volume of this, you would need explosion proof lights and explosion proof fan motors... an expensive proposition. Best practice is to only spray water-soluable stuff. If you must spray flammables do so only with LOTS of ventilation and no ignition sources anywhere near your spray booth.

Good luck!

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

Thanks for the tips Bree. I do plan to build a portable booth and fit it with a hvac filter and a fan. I don't plan to do enough to need explosive proof housings, but I'll keep that in mind if I ever produce enough work to need em.

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Another tip- either place the compressor in another room, or build a quiet box for it. Scrap carpet and carpet pad on the inside do a good job of hushing up the noise.

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:Lighten: Anyone have a good pattern to build a spray booth?!

Kate

I saw one that looks really neat. It's a little large, but the concept is fabulous. it has a down draft with holes in the "floor" and a cabinet underneath large enoughf for a pancake compressor. I has a box fan mounted under the "floor" that creates the down draft through a filter.

I'll see if I can find the link or the pictures.

Twin,

My compressor is so small and quiet you wouldn't believe it. It's about as loud as a sewing machine running. It's got a little 3/4 gallon tank on it.

Here are the pictures.

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Edited by Rawhide

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:Lighten: Anyone have a good pattern to build a spray booth?!

Kate

I've used an old external venting range hood with the vent going outside the garage window. Just build 4 legged fram for it to stand on top of. Hang some little plastic curtains (old shower curtains work well) around the hood, and you have a cheap/free spray booth.

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Hello All! Just joined in and couldn't help but comment here.

There are two common mistakes made by first time airbrushers.

First with regard to ventilation. The point of this exercise is to move sprayed air away from you so that you won't breathe it. Of course the seriousness of this particular step is determined by the material you are using. But don't get carried away! "Movement" of air, not suction is what you are looking for, so "Hurricane" force fans if situated too close to you and your work will more than likely bend the airstream away from your work, and you won't be able to maintain control of the color.

Secondly, and just as important. If your compressor is not already equipped with a good separator/filter, get one. Moisture in the air turns into water drops that will spit out into the airstream. It will p--- you off I promise!

I have been airbrushing for a very long time now. Have used just about all of the available equipment and media, from photographic retouching to trick paint in the '60's. The Badger set up you are referring to is excellent for most anything you will be doing, and the exercises posted here for flow control are a must. Practice them....a lot!

Good luck.

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Marlon - Thanks for bringing up this topic!

I have an airbrush sitting in a box and have been reluctant to give it a try. What is the white bottle/jug used for on the cabinet?

Hilly - The shower curtains are a great idea.

Kate - Thanks for the picture lessons! That does help take some of the mystery out of using an airbrush.

Roo - good tip on the assembly and dis-assembly!

Bree - Explosives warnings are always needed!

Hisself -Good pointers on air flow and filters!

Crystal

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Hello All! Just joined in and couldn't help but comment here.

There are two common mistakes made by first time airbrushers.

First with regard to ventilation. The point of this exercise is to move sprayed air away from you so that you won't breathe it. Of course the seriousness of this particular step is determined by the material you are using. But don't get carried away! "Movement" of air, not suction is what you are looking for, so "Hurricane" force fans if situated too close to you and your work will more than likely bend the airstream away from your work, and you won't be able to maintain control of the color.

Secondly, and just as important. If your compressor is not already equipped with a good separator/filter, get one. Moisture in the air turns into water drops that will spit out into the airstream. It will p--- you off I promise!

I have been airbrushing for a very long time now. Have used just about all of the available equipment and media, from photographic retouching to trick paint in the '60's. The Badger set up you are referring to is excellent for most anything you will be doing, and the exercises posted here for flow control are a must. Practice them....a lot!

Good luck.

Hisself,

Thanks for the pointers. I just got back from lowes with a bunch of stuff to build myself a spray booth. I've got a 50 cfm exhaust fan that will move the air in a downdraft form. let's see if it works. I'll try to remember and take pictures to post later.

Secondly, the compressor I bought was this one complete with filter and regulator. A little teflon tape and I'm spraying.

...Marlon - Thanks for bringing up this topic!

I have an airbrush sitting in a box and have been reluctant to give it a try. What is the white bottle/jug used for on the cabinet?...

Crystal

Crystal, the posting said that the white jug was a rinse and cleaning station.

Edited by Rawhide

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