What sized rivets to use?

[Peterk]

Hello all,

Am going to try some rivets to speed construction for a couple of new knife projects, and for reinforcement purposes, but I need some guidance what size to use. The thickest part of the sheath will be no more than 3 pieces of 7 - 8 oz leather. So far I've found rivets with 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" posts. I assume that since 8oz leather is 1/8" thick, then three of them should be 3/8"? Yes? So technically speaking the rivet with the 3/8" post should work?!

I appreciate the help!

Peter

P.S. What are "double cap" rivets?

Edited January 1, 2009 by Peterk

[Tac]

Pete, I am not one for sizing by measurements, as I use the old "trial and error" meathod

As long as the shank of the rivet will extend past the last layer of leather about a 16th of an inch, they should work fine.

A "Double cap" rivet has a domed cap on both ends, so that you don't see the base and post opening. You can use them for items that the both sides of the rivet will be shown on, such as knife sheaths, decorative clothing items, etc. You need a dished "anvil" to set double capped rivets on, so that the base cap doesn't get flattened out during setting.

[Drac]

double cap rivets are also stronger than rapid rivets. I don't use a dished anvil when I set mine though, since they have a nasty habit of leaving an impression in the leather and no one's ever complained about the one side being flat. you could just flatten the cap after setting too if you're worried about absolute symmetry. I do of course use a dished setter.

[DCKNIVES]

I would really like to discourage you from using rivets on sheaths.They are not very strong, are not needed if the sheath is constructed properly(with welt,glued and sewn) and don't look very professional on custom sheaths.They have thier place in the leather world and I even use some on some of my slings for thumb loops and for small cases.Dave

[TwinOaks]

PeterK,

Ounces or (oz) in leather refers to 64ths of leather. 8oz leather is (nominally) 8/64ths thick=4/32=2/16=1/8, so in this case you are correct. However, if you hit the odd numbers like 6-7 oz, or 4-5 oz, then reducing it to 'common' fractions gets a little complicated- hence the practice of calling it 'oz' in reference to the 'weight' of the leather.

[Peterk]

Thanks guys for all of your comments. I currently have three knifes waiting for sheaths from customers, so I will research a bit more on knife construction and try not to use rivets... Since I'm starting, any money saved on not having to purchase more tools would be good.

[Tac]

Pete, below is a link to a knife sheath tutorail that Chuck Burrows put together. It is for a specific style of sheath (Mexican loop), but has all the elements of building a good knife sheath that would not require the use of rivets to re-enforce the edge of the sheath.

If you use a "welt" to re-enforce the sharp edge of the sheath, the blade will have surface to bear against that will dramatically reduce the chance of it cutting through the sheath.

Most sheaths that use rivets to re-enforce the edge are cheap, mass-produced sheaths made of low quality leather, and the rivets are there to keep the stitching from being cut by the blade. A couple of rivets at the corners to strengthen the sheath are not an immediate indicator of poor quality manufacture, but if you see them running down the length of the edge side of the blade, you can bet someone is trying to save money on the sheath.

www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/mexloop/_mexloop.html

Hope this helps.

-Tac