Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 25, 2016 I'm looking to do some basic front pocket wallets. Posted pic of one my daughter did in show off section. Here's the question. After dying and sealing with Resoline it's kind of stiff. Using 3to4oz veg tan. Can I coat with a boot dressing type of product instead of Resoline? As it stands it feels stiff and "plastic" like. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byggyns Report post Posted October 25, 2016 Resolene, being an acrylic product, does have a more plastic feeling than some other finishes. Its biggest advantage is that is is more water resistant than many other finishes. Tan Kote, Bag Kote, and wax/oil mixtures are all options that should leave the finished item softer and more pliable than the resolene. As with all leather products, it will absorb oils as it is used, and the fibers in the leather will break down slightly, which all cause the item to soften and become more flexible. A little neatsfoot oil will help accelerate the process, but with the resolene being so fresh, it won't absorb much. Many folks will use SnoSeal as a final finish. That's one I haven't used, but may work well for what you are looking for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted October 25, 2016 I've been using snoseal for a while and have just started using fieblings aussie conditioner for when I want a more natural look. The resolene, super shene, etc will make things look more plastic like. When I do use them, I give a coat of neats foot oil or carnueba cream first and let it dry before finishing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 25, 2016 Thanks guys. Will just have to experiment and see what I like best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 25, 2016 Since most wallets do not need to be waterproof I use several coats of carnauba creme. Carnauba creme is a leather treatment that softens leather and deposits very hard wax that buffs up beautiful. Carnauba rubbed leather has the best hand feel in my opinion. I will slop it on and then massage it into the leather with my fingers until most has been absorbed, leaving just sheen behind. I like to dip my fingers in and work it into a small area at a time. I want enough product the surface to get really wet and slippery without any puddles of the stuff. After you massage it in, let it dry for a few hours Then buff. You need to apply alot of pressure and rub hard with a cotton buffing rag. It can be difficult to hold a small wallet and get enough buffing pressure, and pushing too hard on a finished peice can cause outlines of the interior details to show on the outside. My solution to this is I lay out and trace all the pieces onto the leather and then rough cut out the whole section of the hide for the project. I then finish the leather as one unit, flat. I can lay it on the table and buff hard with my body weight and both hands. Sometimes I will even tack the piece to my bench for this step. I cut out the pieces after after. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 25, 2016 52 minutes ago, TinkerTailor said: Since most wallets do not need to be waterproof I use several coats of carnauba creme. Carnauba creme is a leather treatment that softens leather and deposits very hard wax that buffs up beautiful. Carnauba rubbed leather has the best hand feel in my opinion. I will slop it on and then massage it into the leather with my fingers until most has been absorbed, leaving just sheen behind. I like to dip my fingers in and work it into a small area at a time. I want enough product the surface to get really wet and slippery without any puddles of the stuff. After you massage it in, let it dry for a few hours Then buff. You need to apply alot of pressure and rub hard with a cotton buffing rag. It can be difficult to hold a small wallet and get enough buffing pressure, and pushing too hard on a finished peice can cause outlines of the interior details to show on the outside. My solution to this is I lay out and trace all the pieces onto the leather and then rough cut out the whole section of the hide for the project. I then finish the leather as one unit, flat. I can lay it on the table and buff hard with my body weight and both hands. Sometimes I will even tack the piece to my bench for this step. I cut out the pieces after. I'm gonna give that a go thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 25, 2016 one heads up, carnauba creme will darken the leather some, so be prepared and perhaps use a shade lighter dye if you are dying.. I think it also makes the color richer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 25, 2016 Copy the darken part. I like the darker stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nuttish Report post Posted October 29, 2016 Atom wax is an alternative to carnauba creme. It's also carnauba wax, but builds more rapidly. It doesn't tend to alter the color much. It goes over most finishes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 29, 2016 I got some Fiebings Aussie as my local tandy didn't have a carnauba cream. on the recommendation of the store manager. see how that works and report back. Again thanks everyone for helping with your experience. Matt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 30, 2016 It turned out pretty good. Pretty soft a little snug should loosen a bit with use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites