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NickH

Review my work

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Good day all, new to the forum and just received access. I was looking in ways to improve a design that I do regularly any recommendations would be awesome and love constructive criticism. I am Chief in the US Coast Guard and make CHARGE books for my fellow Chiefs. IMG_1398.JPG

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sorry if this offends you but I'm wondering if this is just the design or is this one finished?

The lines around the bottom of the anchor I would move out a bit more from the circles and I'd add beveling around the shield to add some depth

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I think it needs more beveling overall. Also, some backgrounding to show a contrast between the stars and field, and to differentiate the stripes from each other would help a lot. (even if it's really light backgrounding) The chain needs beveling where the links go under/over each other.

If you paint it, the backgrounding is less important.

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Chief,

 

Of course the primary question is, "How much time, effort, energy - not to mention money - do you want to invest.  I agree with the beveling and backgrounding  comments, but you might also want to use dividers to get your lines parallel on the shield. You could go a long way toward making this "pop" if you got rid of the circles surrounding and replaced that effort with a checked beveler. (Also would make the emblem more in keeping with the actual image. Of course use of dyes and textures always create a more forceful image, but if you're giving these away, you might not want to invest the effort.  Please show us your next product.

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Haven't logged in a while and never received an email regarding your replies. Thank you for all the constructive feedback. And no I am not offended. Looking for three sizes of the Barry King steep check bevelers. Size 3-5 or 2-4 I think there's five sizes would work. Anybody know who has them for sale used??? 

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I use a transparent straight edge to get the parallel lines.  Lots of straight lines in that design.  But how much detail you put in will depend on the size of the carving.  This one is on a full size charge book.

mt.jpg

 

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I want to expand on JLSLeather's recommendation to use a transparent ruler because it is a very important one.

There are a handful of tools I find myself reaching for constantly. Tools that I'd be absolutely lost without. My little $3 Osborne awl, utility knife, bone folder, Osborne rotary punch, steel ruler with a Veritas ruler stop and so on. 

Speaking of rulers, I have to give Arthur Porter (many excellent Youtube videos) credit for turning me on to those transparent rulers with rectangular grids printed on them. The kind that seamstresses use. They are absolutely the cat's meow for working with any project that involves any sort of straight line. I use mine dozens of times a day. They've become indispensable to me.

I've tried several brands and I've settled on Olfa's Frosted Acrylic rulers. They are superior for three reasons. One, is that the markings are black and very thin and unobtrusive compared to some others that have thick, garish colored lines and tick marks that obscure the details of whatever is underneath them. Olfa's lines are also printed on the bottom of the acrylic, eliminating any parallax error due to the thickness of the plastic. Finally, as the name suggests, Olfa's rulers are frosted on the bottom, which gives them a little "tooth" that helps a lot keep the ruler from slipping.

They are inexpensive and durable and come in a number of sizes. I have several sizes but find the 6" x 6" and 6" x 12" ones the handiest for the size of my typical projects.

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-1071819-QR-6x12-12-Inch-Advantage/dp/B000PD0DWM

As I said they are useful any time I need to draw or cut a straight line. They're particularly handy when you need to draw or cut parallel straight lines. You just register a line or row of tick marks the desired distance on top of a previous line and the edge is automatically exactly where it needs to be.

Next to that $3 awl and my $10 Stanley utility knife, these babies are the best money I've spent on my leatherwork tools.

Try one and you'll see what I am talking about. Your straight line issues will be a thing of the past.

Michelle

Edited by silverwingit

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I have to agree with the Cowboy, those circles around the anchor do nothing but confuse. Other than that, it's a good starting point. Keep working on it, and you'll get to where you want to be.

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Actually, those "circles" belong there... they're part of the design.  Anybody who is / was in the service knows how well that boat floats (like, not at all) when you alter insignia ...

He has it correct -- 13 stars, 13 stripes, and those "circles" ...

uscg.jpgI would have beveled outside the rows of circles, but not eliminate them.

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Looking at the pic you posted, it looks more like rope, not circles. Maybe his just need to be smaller, and more tightly spaced then?

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Sounds like I met my competion. Love your work. Deep 6 Leather Works is my side business. I am also thinking of switching to that style of anchor. It fits more with our collar devices. Thanks for all your input I'll get make to practicing and post some more work. Thank you all!

IMG_1378.JPG

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While I don't think the anchor is "surrounded" by circles, a simple pressing of a seed tool makes consistent "rope markings" quickly and easily.  Just maybe not quite so deep ...

mt.jpg

Just FYI, I've had people run pretty fast at the price of these -- guess it depends on the intended use.

 

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It depends on the image you have. I have seen a few different images. My own Chief Petty Officers Associations uses several different ones. I do in fact like yours better. Just bought a Cobra Class 26 and it sees like a dream. 

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