Camp Axe Sheath

[Vikefan]

I finally designed, worked on and then finished my sheath for a hand forged camp axe I got this time last year.

Feedback is welcome.

 

Thank you,

[TinkerTailor]

Is it welted? If it is not, adding a welt in between the layers serves the purpose of protecting the stitching from the sharp edge. Its a nice looking project and the good news is you can use it till the blade cuts the stitches and then add in the welt when you re-stitch. Design is nice and simple and cut out well. I like the little notch you cut on the bottom of the front where the closer strap goes. It is a small detail but it shows more thought went in that just tracing the outline.

Only thing I would do with it now is get a smooth flat faced hammer and pound down your stitch lines, this can really clean them up by flattening them and working out small tension inconsistencies. It also closes up the holes, locking the stitch. If you got one, a quick edge bevel would look nice as well.

[Vikefan]

Thank you. I did not take a picture of the edge, but it is welted.  The leather I used is a soft oiled leather from scrap boxes Tandy sells.  I did run a spoon, front and back over the stitching to try to get them to lay down a bit more.  I am not sure why it still looks bunched up.  I beveled the edges using a #2 from I believe Barry King?

Thank you for your great feedback.

[TinkerTailor]

1 minute ago, Vikefan said:

Thank you. I did not take a picture of the edge, but it is welted.  The leather I used is a soft oiled leather from scrap boxes Tandy sells.  I did run a spoon, front and back over the stitching to try to get them to lay down a bit more.  I am not sure why it still looks bunched up.  I beveled the edges using a #2 from I believe Barry King?

Thank you for your great feedback.

I hit my stitching pretty hard with a hammer. It takes more force than just a spoon to push those thread flat. I hit about as hard as putting in a finishing nail with a 16oz hammer all up and down my seams. It can take a surprising beating. Hit lighter at the corners and ends. This is where the leather likes to blow out if you hit too hard.

Sew up a few inches on a scrap, whack it and see.

[Vikefan]

Do you have a special hammer?  One for leather work with a polished smooth head?

I have thought about getting one of those, but haven't yet.

Thank you.

 

[TinkerTailor]

The one i use most often for seams is an old flat face autobody/sheetmetal hammer. Anything with a very slight dome to the face and a smooth surface should work. Practice hitting with the hammer flat as possible to prevent marks from the edge of the face. I have never bought a "leatherworking hammer". I do scour the bins at thrift stores and pawn shops for suitable hammers. I did find a cobblers hammer in a scrap bin with no handle once, handles are cheap.

And all my hammers are special......

[stu925]

Local antiques shop here has a couple cobblers' hammers in it.  I think they're fairly common and would be perfect for what you're doing.  Check ebay too, I'm sure someone has a couple they're selling, just don't pay a ton for it.

Stu