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Posted
9 hours ago, Evo160K said:

Wiz.

If you want to try to smooth out that dead spot, you might take the cover off and note exactly where the gradient is when you get the hesitation.  Some part of that area under the light beam, I believe it's the trailing part, needs to be darker, maybe a couple more pencil lines.  Dare say, you might even be able to hold a pencil lead or small nail or something similar there first to block light to see where it speeds up, that will pinpoint exactly where you want to make lines to darken the gradient.  The darker you make the gradient (less light getting through to the eye), the faster the motor runs.  You can go darker or lighter to tailor the ramp up to your liking.

Although the gradient is about an inch wide, as far as I can tell, it's only the portion that passes under the light beam from dead stop to top speed that concerns us.  It may take a bit of marking and erasing, but you'll get it smoothed out for sure.  It's not rocket science like I first thought.

Thanks for that suggestion. If I ever decide to remove the commercially produced gradient and make my own, I will use lead pencil strokes. The one I have in there was pre-printed on thin plastic for Leather Machine Company and offered to their customers.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

You're welcome, Wiz.

Btw, I would keep the gradient from Leather Machine Company, it's working well, I would just darken it at the dead spot.

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