Getting back into it

[davisleather]

Hi! I've been leather working for awhile but due to school it's been sporadic over the last several years and now that I'm done I'm wanting to get back into it!

I've recently done a project on a wallet and every thing was going well until I tried to seal it with Tandy Super Sheen. No matter how many coats I put on it wasn't resisting water, even though it's done fairly well for me in the past. Also, I saw on here how some people use neatsfoot oil and snowproof. I tried that and I like how supple the leather stays, but once again still a bit of dye comes off with water.

Also, after using the neatsfoot  oil and snowproof I found that Barge would not work on the leather.

Lastly, if you barely bend the leather cracks appear and the leather shows light blue instead of the dark blue I dyed it with.

1) any suggestions for other things to try for sealing?

2)preferences on what to use for buffing the leather?

3)gluing?

4) cracks?

Thanks!

[NVLeatherWorx]

Where were you getting your leather from and what grade is it?  There are some veg-tan leathers that have been creating this type of issue for several people so that does have a relationship here.  What type of dye did you use?  Again, there have been some people experiencing issues with certain products and when used on the questionable leather the issue have been compounded.  If you are applying Neatsfoot Oil make sure that is Pure Neatsfoot Oil and not one of the compounds and only apply it to the grain side if you are intending to bind it using any glue or tape.  I personally buff the remaining pigment from a dyed project with old denim for the first couple of runs (make sure that your project has dried at least 24 hours to ensure full drying/curing) and then on a third run I will use a dampened piece of denim just to grab that extra "dust" that may still be there.  To stop cracks where you will be applying a strong fold you need to moisten the flesh side of the leather along the line where you are going to fold the piece and then let it settle in; once it has done that you can fold it much easier and you shouldn't see any cracking if done right.

[davisleather]

I get my leather from tandy and I use the eco-flo dye.

When it comes to the cracks it's nothe necessarily on a part of the leather that is supposed to bend. If I take the flat portion of the work and bend it l, it causes the cracks that shows a lighter color.

[davisleather]

Also, can you tell if there is still anything coming off when you buff when you use the denim?

[thekid77]

23 hours ago, davisleather said:

Hi! I've been leather working for awhile but due to school it's been sporadic over the last several years and now that I'm done I'm wanting to get back into it!

I've recently done a project on a wallet and every thing was going well until I tried to seal it with Tandy Super Sheen. No matter how many coats I put on it wasn't resisting water, even though it's done fairly well for me in the past. Also, I saw on here how some people use neatsfoot oil and snowproof. I tried that and I like how supple the leather stays, but once again still a bit of dye comes off with water.

Also, after using the neatsfoot  oil and snowproof I found that Barge would not work on the leather.

Lastly, if you barely bend the leather cracks appear and the leather shows light blue instead of the dark blue I dyed it with.

1) any suggestions for other things to try for sealing?

2)preferences on what to use for buffing the leather?

3)gluing?

4) cracks?

Thanks!

Hey there, I have found that acrylic resolene works way better (cut it 1:1 with water).....I currently take a couple paper towels and fold them into a small square and cover with a piece of old cotton shirt....put that up to the bottle and tip the bottle onto it......blot it out a bit and apply a light coat of resolene,  let it dry for a few minutes,  then a second light coat.....then buff.....

 

Also the eco stuff does lift up a lot......try the tandy pro waterstains......once they are dry there is very little to no rub off....you can buff them and they almost don't need a top coat....

Dampen and bend the leather first, then dye it to take care of the cracks...

 

Just my experience....hope it helps 

[NVLeatherWorx]

The Eco-Flo dyes/stains do indeed have some serious rub-off and the Pro Waterstains also have an issue when set as they make the leather slightly more brittle and stiff and tend to crack when manipulated; the veg-tan from Tandy has issues with being brittle as well and that is due to the method of tanning used and the formula (which is not Oak tanned, it is tanned South of the border and their tanning formula is nowhere near the quality of Oak tanning formula and they add extra pH to the water used through the use of various animal urine; sad but true).  I know that the price for the leather is what attracts people the most when compared to the higher quality products and we all know that there is movement to "hug a tree and save the world" but when it comes to quality results you have to spend you money on the products that actually ARE quality and there can not be any shortcuts.  I too use a 50/50 blend of Resolene and distilled water and I apply mine in several light coats that are applied with a damp sponge; I have never had any issues with it and I have working with leather for over 40 years.  I also use Fiebing's dyes, stains, and Antiques as they have a proven track record of consistency and top end results that is unmatched by other products.  My leather is either Hermann Oak veg-tan or pit-tanned (Oak based formula only) from England and France.

[davisleather]

NVLeatherWorx thank you for all of the help!

Is there a specific site you buy your leather from? Also, where do you buy your dyes and resolene from?

I did try some fieblings dye before,  but I will admit it was given to me and looked a little old. When I used it, I had colored a design and I used a different color over the top and it totally wiped out through first color. Did I just need to thin the dye first? I've tried several different thints, but it seems like every time I try to do more than 1 color, the last applied dye overrides all of the other colors.

[NVLeatherWorx]

When I purchase my leather I do it a couple different ways:  First one is to order directly from the tannery (large orders only as they do have a minimum order), second is to order from Springfield Leather in Springfield, MO; third is to order from the Hide House in Napa, CA (it is about 4 hours away for me if I decide to make a trip over the hill from here and I can actually hand select my own materials, they carry H.O. and my European hides).  For my dyes I order directly from Fiebing's as I get distributor pricing there and sell a bit to other locals here; you can get a good selection from Springfield Leather though for a better price than at Tandy with their limited selection.

When you talk about trying to do multiple colors are you talking about have a design that has been finished in vibrant colors (red, green, white, blue, etc.) or just talking about trying to create a transitioning shade effect?  If you are trying to dye over vibrant colors then you need to either use a different product to get your color or you have to paint the dye on around the colored areas; spirit dyes will penetrate through everything and the last color applied, if darker, will overtake everything else.  If you are trying to achieve the transitional fade effect look then you need to learn some new techniques such as block dyeing and so on.  Fiebing's has a book available on how to use their products in multiple ways to create different effects and Tandy has one as well for their Eco-Flo products that you get through their Leathercraft Library website; I believe it is still free for that one.