IWB straps

[drof99]

I want to make an IWB holster. I've seen some on here that I like. I'd like to make one with leather straps that go around the belt. I'm looking for some pics of how to make these. I don't understand how the loops attach to the holster. I'd really like to look at some detailed pics if anyone can post. Thanks in advance for the help.

[TwinOaks]

Some are actually cut from the leather that way (think T on the side), others are snapped on, stiched, bolted, laced and/or glued in place.

[Lobo]

Some are actually cut from the leather that way (think T on the side), others are snapped on, stiched, bolted, laced and/or glued in place.

Attached are photos of two that I completed and shipped last week. First is for a 1911 Colt full size, suede lined. Second is for a Colt Defender, unlined. Both are made of 8-9 oz. shoulder, holds shape very well and allows easy holstering without added reinforcement around the mouth. Adding reinforcement is fine, but it does increase the bulk of the holstered pistol in the waistband.

Basic pancake design for the construction of these two. The leather panel on the rear is simply extended upward in one-inch wide straps, then looped over at the front.

Placing the belt loops to the outside of the handgun profile results in a less bulky package when worn. Belt loops placed on the outer side of the holstered handgun cause an increase in overall bulk. With a large handgun this can be significant; with smaller pistols it is less significant.

Customer specifications called for smooth leather out, which is usually more comfortable to wear. I also offer rough side out for those that prefer it that way, which helps maintain constant position of the holster in the waistband by friction.

I make them to customer specifications, so what the customer asks for is what they get. When the customer asks for my suggestions, they usually get something like these two.

Hope this helps.

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

[drof99]

That does help Lobo. Looks like those would work pretty well. I'd like to see how some of the ones that are bolted on look.

[woolfe]

When bolting the loops on with T-nuts do you guys put anything in between the holster and the loops to help protect the leather?

[JRB]

I have played around w/this as well. I first struggled w/finding a way to find hardware long enough to go thru the holster and strap (the rivets I had were too short to go thru both layers of holstr + layer for loop).

With the help of those here and some other holster makers that were willing to provide advice I came up w/these methods to play with.

1) Lobo's method. This requires the least amount of hardware. Although I can't get my head around how this makes a slimmer package???

2) Rivet or screw (w/T-nut) the band by placing the rivet/screw & snap stud offset of center. For shorter rivets you can attach to the outside layer of holster before gluing & stitching...This also provides a cleaner look because the T-nut/rivet is not exposed on the back.

3) Find screws that w/a head that will fit inside the snap stud and use a T-nut on the back side.

4) Chicago style screws.

8/32 and 6/32 screws & T-nuts seem to be the common choice.

[gicts]

I have played around w/this as well. I first struggled w/finding a way to find hardware long enough to go thru the holster and strap (the rivets I had were too short to go thru both layers of holstr + layer for loop).

With the help of those here and some other holster makers that were willing to provide advice I came up w/these methods to play with.

1) Lobo's method. This requires the least amount of hardware. Although I can't get my head around how this makes a slimmer package???

2) Rivet or screw (w/T-nut) the band by placing the rivet/screw & snap stud offset of center. For shorter rivets you can attach to the outside layer of holster before gluing & stitching...This also provides a cleaner look because the T-nut/rivet is not exposed on the back.

3) Find screws that w/a head that will fit inside the snap stud and use a T-nut on the back side.

4) Chicago style screws.

8/32 and 6/32 screws & T-nuts seem to be the common choice.

Could someone show me a pic of how the rivet/screw & snap is done? I am just not able to envision it.

[woolfe]

Could someone show me a pic of how the rivet/screw & snap is done? I am just not able to envision it.

I used a longer screw then necessary in this picture to help show what I did.

This is what I did, hope it helps.

Do I need to put anything between the loop and the holster, like a washer, or something to help it grip better?

[SouthernHolsters]

.....Do I need to put anything between the loop and the holster, like a washer, or something to help it grip better?

I make washers out of leather and put them between the loop and the holster. This keeps the waistband of the pants from "scrunching up" in the area.

[Lobo]

Here are a couple more holsters I just shipped out. Those with a good eye will see that this old guy uses the same basic pattern for IWB and OWB. Keeps things simple for me, and I like simple!

1. IWB, oiled tan finish

2. matching mag pouch for IWB

3. OWB, brown.

[dbusarow]

Here are a couple more holsters I just shipped out. Those with a good eye will see that this old guy uses the same basic pattern for IWB and OWB. Keeps things simple for me, and I like simple!

1. IWB, oiled tan finish

2. matching mag pouch for IWB

3. OWB, brown.

Really nice Lobo. Have you found that your new OWB design works as well as a traditional pancake with respect to automatically tensioning the gun? I can see where eliminating the little bit of leather on the inside of the belt would make it even more comfortable. Guess I'll have to make one and try it out myself

Thanks,

Dan

[Lobo]

Dan:

I have made pancake style holsters for 37 years. Some remain in service today that are 30 years old. So there is nothing wrong with the basic pancake that I know of.

That said, I find the snap-loop belt attachment more comfortable to wear. There is no little lump fore and aft of the holster to wear into my tired old hip. And it is certainly easier to put on and take off.

I make IWB holsters for those that demand them. Personally, I can't wear one for any length of time, and I don't understand how anyone would want all that bulk crammed in between their body and their waistline. But they do, so I take their money and produce the product. The fact of the matter is that at least 1/3 of my customers order a second holster, and many order several more. Maybe my primary mission in life if helping people learn what works and what doesn't? So be it.

Next challenge (and one that I am actively working on right now): a truly comfortable shoulder holster. One that doesn't shift constantly, every time you get into a car and out of a car, every time you bend over. One that doesn't have to be cinched up so tight to prevent movement of the harness that it restricts upper body movement. I'm almost there, and I will post some results when I have a product ready for the market.

Also in the process of adding matching belts to my product line. Lots of folks want a matching set of holster, belt, mag pouch, etc. I have a nice heavy-duty holster belt design coming on line next week.

Thanks for your comments.

Best wishes.

[dbusarow]

Dan:

I have made pancake style holsters for 37 years. Some remain in service today that are 30 years old. So there is nothing wrong with the basic pancake that I know of.

That said, I find the snap-loop belt attachment more comfortable to wear. There is no little lump fore and aft of the holster to wear into my tired old hip. And it is certainly easier to put on and take off.

Lobo,

I figured that these belt loops would make it more comfortable. I wear a pancake almost every day and the only thing I'd like to change is that little lump digging into my hip bone at the end of the day.

I make IWB holsters for those that demand them. Personally, I can't wear one for any length of time, and I don't understand how anyone would want all that bulk crammed in between their body and their waistline. But they do, so I take their money and produce the product. The fact of the matter is that at least 1/3 of my customers order a second holster, and many order several more. Maybe my primary mission in life if helping people learn what works and what doesn't? So be it.

I wear IWB at 1 oclock for church and other occasions where I'll be in company and won't be wearing a jacket; a sweater or western style vest covers just fine. Works well and it's not too uncomfortable. But you won't find me riding a horse with an IWB holster on

Next challenge (and one that I am actively working on right now): a truly comfortable shoulder holster. One that doesn't shift constantly, every time you get into a car and out of a car, every time you bend over. One that doesn't have to be cinched up so tight to prevent movement of the harness that it restricts upper body movement. I'm almost there, and I will post some results when I have a product ready for the market.

Oh man, that's got to be like a holy grail. Good luck on that one, looking forward to seeing it.

Dan