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filipblaauw

Finish stitching with linen thread

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I'm absolutely new to leatherworking, and have only made a couple of wallets yet. I first stitched with 0.8mm Tiger thread, but I thought it looked a bit chunky. So for my second wallet, I stitched with a 18/3 linen thread. My question is how I best can finish my stitching with this linen thread.

I make a couple of back stitches, and get both the ends on the back side. Should I just cut them of and add a drop of glue? Or should I thread them under a previous stitch? I have also tried melting a drop of beeswax and rubbed the thread ends with it.

What are your suggestions?

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The recommended method is to back-stitch 3 to 5 (I recommend 5) stitches with both ends of the thread being on opposite sides of the project then just cut them very close to the surface of the leather; no need to do anything else at this point.  Regarding your comment about the Tiger thread looking "chunky", what did you mean by that?  What is your stitches per inch number?  I ask because the lower the number of stitches per inch the worse it tends to look with most threads and the 0.8mm is perfect for most projects; the same is also true for too many stitches per inch so there is a correct number to target.

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Hi Richard, thanks for the tip!

I am currently using a very cheap chisel set: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/diamond-hole-chisel-set and have been using the 3.1mm and 2.3mm. It does not say how many stitches per inch this gives, but somewhere around 6-7 spi? It may also be that my stitching is off - I have spent the past weeks studying Nigel's excellent videos on saddle stitching - and am still learning!

I am waiting on a pricking iron set with 9 spi, an diamond awl and some 0.6 mm Tiger thread, and will compare that to the stitches with my chisel set and 0.8 mm thread. Will have a go with 18/3 linen thread as well.

What I did not like with the chisels, is that I seem to get some ugly markings on the backside from where I hammer. It's like the leather have some round markings around the hole, like it has been teared. I'm hoping that a pricking iron and awl will leave a more subtle hole.

As you well have noticed, I'm a complete beginner and have much to learn! Thanks again for your linen finishing tip!

Filip

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No problem, that is what we are here for.  The round markings that you are talking about tend to be typical of using chisels and I have found in past years that the softer the surface that you are punching your leather on the more prominent that these markings become.  You will get the same look when using a thonging chisel for lace so it is the surface being used and not the tool.  I use an awl most of the time but there are times when I have used a chisel for making my stitching holes and I found a long time ago that if you sharpen the points and strop them (just like your swivel knife) and use them on a firm surface (I use a 1" thick poly board) that you don't get as much weird looking stuff on the bottom side when you punch.  I also use beeswax on all of my chisels and awl blades to reduce any friction and to make it easier to get the points through the leather and back out.

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I see. I'm using a poly board but with a thin scrap leather between the board and the leather I'm punching. So I may have to get rid of the scrap leather to make the surface harder. I just found it easier to fully get through with the chisel when I used the scrap leather.

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