Singer 153W103 Cylinder Repair and Timing - Pics

[Ian1783]

I'm in the process of essentially rebuilding the feed-dog mechanism of my 153W103, having purchased new parts, now installed, but that await proper adjustment.

I'm hoping someone might have input on where to start with with timing of the feed-dog mechanism.

This machine suffered what appears to have been a catastrophic failure that resulted in a few broken parts. The hook timing does not appear to have been affected (and that's fairly straightforward). I've replaced the parts, but must now time the up-and-down movement of the feed dog, as well as its back-and-forth movement.

I'm hoping for that instruction that states, in so many words, something like: "With Part A aligned with Part B, ensure that Part C is aligned with Part D".

In the above example, I see "Parts A and B" being a hook-timing position (my starting point, unless I'm shown that I should start with some other starting-point position) with Part C (in my case, the cam that activates feed-dog lift) needing to be properly positioned when Parts A and B are in said starting-point position. At this same time (if things are as simple as this), Part D (if you will), the Rock/Lift Shaft, should be at 'such and such' position.

Sorry if this is asking for a bit much. In my mind, it seems a rather simple equation, and I may just get there on my own, but I would think a service manual (as opposed to an operating manual), which I don't have, would show these correlations. That would sure simplify the process for me, and save me from having to "reinvent the wheel" in terms of the detective work required.

I'm including photos, and hope that these may help clarify my issue, as well as provide some resource for anyone contemplating the same adjustments on a cylinder-arm machine of their own. I'd be happy to provide more photos, and I'm at that point where most of what I've done can be undone to any stage for further visual clarification.

In short: I need help in understanding the timing of the feed dog as it relates to the cam and rock/lift shaft.

First image is of the area in question. Second image shows the cam-activated feed-dog lift (I need to time the lift). Third image shows the cam that activates the feed-dog lift (this is what I need to adjust and lock in place). Fourth image is of the rock/lift shaft that provides the back-and-forth movement of the feed-dog (this also needs to be timed and locked in place).

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. And, please, if you're in the same boat, ask of me any questions you might have - I just may have some insight after having got this far with my project!

Ian

SF Bay Area

Edited January 24, 2017 by Ian1783

[Uwe]

Nice photos!

The Singer 153W103 Manual has some "Instructions for adjusters and Machinists" starting on page 15. That would be a good starting point. I'd take a close look at the timing belt synchronization first (page 23) - it may just be all you need to do to get feed dog motion back to normal.

[Ian1783]

Uwe - Perfect! Well, this is a much clearer manual than one I was using, and quite a bit more complete. Now it will be a matter of understanding what I'm reading.

I have made progress, though. Trial and error progress, to be sure.

I've been able to to adjust feed dog timing to match the needle. That took hours. Now, I'm hoping your instructions include those for adjusting that cam, which times the proper up-and-down motion of the feed dog.

Edit: To be clear, that cam does indeed time the feed-dog's up and down motion, but it is in relation to the position of the needle, and, I presume (I haven't got that far) the vibrating presser foot. I need to know just when the feed dog should be just rising above the needle plate - and, by extension, just when the feed dog should clear (fall below) the needle plate. Or, as a perhaps simpler way to put it: when the cam lobe is in its full position (feed dog at max height), where would the feed dog be in its back-and-forth position? The manual does not appear to include the instructions for timing the cam (unless I'm missing something, which might certainly be the case).

I'll tackle this tomorrow.

Thanks!

Ian, SF Bay Area

Edited January 25, 2017 by Ian1783

[Uwe]

The timing belt synchronization should be one of the very first steps in the timing sequence. If that is out of synch, none of the other adjustments will make much sense. 

I have a Singer 153W102, which is the bottom+needle feed version. The bottom feed and arm design should be identical to your Singer 153W103.

Mine has instructions right on the part they talk about in the manual:

First you have to turn the handwheel so that your thread take-up lever is as it's highest position.

Then make sure the marks align like this:

In case your machine doesn't have the part with the arrow and the instructions, the mark on the safety clutch cog wheel points straight down when properly aligned.

If the marks don't align, you may have to take the belt off the safety clutch, align the marks, and then put the belt back on the safety clutch. That may be tricky if your belt is a fabric belt like mine - the newer rubbery belts are easier to pull off after warming them up with a hairdryer.

 

[Ian1783]

Before beginning further adjustments today (and before that, continuing the process of acquiring the knowledge to do so), I've been Googling Walking Foot Adjustment, and found not much info. But I did find a Youtube video that, while for a Juki LU-563, was just the type of online instruction I felt I needed. I bookmarked the "page" and had every intention of sharing this link, as I was very impressed with its production quality. Only then did I notice, Uwe, that it was one of yours! Excellent instruction; great visuals. Remarkable that so much information can be shared without a single spoken word of dialog (clear text of the step by step instructions is used).

Edited January 25, 2017 by Ian1783
Clarification

[MADMAX22]

Its probably Uwe's video. He has several good ones for adjusting various machines. 

[Ian1783]

OK - new issue!

I'm now trying to adjust the presser feet. I have had some luck in understanding the process and did make a few adjustments that seemed the right ones. However! I loosened the screw (A) on the shaft that actuates the presser feet, and now I'm having difficulty grasping the process for getting back to square one (or, ideally, to where I want to be: with presser feet properly timed to the feed dog and each other).

I'm trying to find a correlation between two parts: the position of the shaft (B) (and so, by extension, the position of the arm in the body of the machine that activates it) and (C) which is where it all comes together in the timing of the presser feet.

I'm again looking for an equation that has part (B) in a specific position, so that part (C) can be adjusted to be in proper time with it. I'm stumped. Granted, I may get it eventually, but it's a real head-scratcher. There is a three part correlation where all three points depend on each other for the whole to work properly.

I haven't found anything in the manual that pertains to this adjustment.

Ian, SF Bay Area

Edited January 25, 2017 by Ian1783

[Uwe]

One way to get back to a reasonable starting pojnt is to turn the wheel towards you until the needle reaches the top of the material. Then loosen screw "A" to make both feet rest on top of the material. Then tighten screw '"A" again. That should bring things back into a normal state. The outer foot will start to lift up the moment the inner foot presses against something (material or feed dog). You need both feet and feed dog installed and ideally some material under the foot to check/adjust this. My Juki LU-563 adjustment video below shows this particular step at the 4-minute mark.

The lever "B" gets actuated by an excenter that sits on the upper shaft inside the head. That excenter can (but very rarely needs to) be rotated on the shaft to change the timing of when arm "B" is being pushed out and pulled back in to create the up/down walking motion of the feet. I have yet to encounter a machine where that excenter needed adjustment.

Keep in mind one of the main rules of sewing machine maintenance: Don't loosen a screw unless you know what it does.

Here's the video I mentioned above (the equalizing of the walking foot lift shown at the 4-minute mark is one of the few things in the video that applies directly to the Singer 153W103):

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2017 by Uwe

[Ian1783]

That's the video I mentioned! It has really helped me understand much of what I need to know. Thanks!

I had the idea of looking for images of this machine online, and found a few that allowed me to guesstimate where things needed to be (one of them, the one that really helped, was one of MADMAX22's - thanks MM22!)

Your further instructions above helped ice the cake, Uwe. I can see that I'm pretty much back to where I was before loosening that screw (what I call "All part of the learning process - doh!").

Thanks again!

Ian, SF Bay Area

Edited January 26, 2017 by Ian1783

[Ian1783]

Thought I'd tie this thread up with a couple of "after" photos. I've only been able to "dry fire" this machine. It's advancing material as it should - thanks to Uwe's videos showing what I need to look for.

As it turns out, I don't have the proper bobbins for this machine, so haven't tested it with thread. There are a few other parts needed: a thread guide (the lower of the two at the thread tensioner), and maybe a few new screws to replace those whose heads are rather worn. I'll have to order a servo motor setup from Toledo, but even before that, I'll have to source pedals for the stand. There are two that are used, one for the moor and one for the presser lift. That should put me into usability territory.

There may be an issue with the hook to needle adjustment, as I have the hook as close to the needle as the hook guard will allow, but it seems not quite close enough. Though, if it works well, I won't worry about that.

Lastly, I'd like to encourage anyone thinking of making similar repairs to do so. I learned a lot and enjoyed it all. I picked up the machine about 3+ years ago for $150, and with another $100 in parts, I may have a machine that will work well for a good many years.

Thanks for all the help!

Ian, SF Bay Area

 

[MADMAX22]

Thats a nice looking machine ya got there. Very good deal on it as well. 

[shoepatcher]

Great  job!  That looks nice.  That  machine uses a "G" bobbin, same as a 111W155 and 135x17 needles.

glenn