My first holster

[bruce johnson]

I am posting this as my first holster, so be brutal with advice. I don't plan on doing many, but then 20 years ago I wasn't planning on doing saddles either. I mainly did it as a favor for a good customer and friend. This is the first, so if there is something we need to change, we can dang sure do it. I patterned it off one my friend Diego Conde made for me a few years back. Looks like it passes the upside down test for molding I just read about earlier here, but still draws easily. The biggest thing that bothers me is a stitch groove that overran in front of the trigger, and the slot might be a little close to the stitching on the trigger edge. Any help is appreciated.

[rdb]

That's pretty sleek looking Bruce! You done good.

I'm no holster expert, but those pre- mold stitch lines are hard to get right at first. I've usually stitched first, then cut the belt slots. I think next time, I will cut the slots first. That way I can guage the stitch line better. I don't know if that's the right way, but I'm going to try it.

[K-Man]

Okay, you said to be brutal with the advice. Overall, you did a good job.

- Slots for the belt to slide through appear to be too long. You need for those to match up with the belt size, i.e., 1.5 belt goes through a 1.5" slot. That way you do not have any slop or play of the holster on the belt, and when you go to draw the gun.

- Your stitch line below the trigger guard area is too far away. Over time that's going to allow the gun to move somewhat while in the holster. By moving that stitch line closer to the trigger guard, you'll move it away from the belt slot.

- The cut of the holster itself along the top line, in the area of the trigger guard, comes up a tad too high. I suspect that if you stuck your hand around the grip, you'd find your fingers running into that edge. That does not feel good to the user and makes one shy away from attempting to get a firm grip. You don't want that to happen.

- The metal reinforcement piece on the thumb break needs to go on the backside of the holster. Just line it up the same way you did on this one. That will also prevent the potential of your thumb being scraped/cut on the sharp edges of that metal piece. With respect to the thumb break, make sure the retention strap comes down somewhat snug over the back of the slide. In a couple of the pics, it looks like there's some amount of space in there. Based on the pics, it looks like I could pull the gun out of the holster, with the retention strap in place, without too much difficulty.

- With respect to the moulding of the holster itself, I would suggest a little more definition. Take a look at the side of the gun you're moulding and try and match the lines and contours a little more closely. Don't be afraid to apply some pressure of the leather against the gun itself. It isn't necessarily going to break the gun or harm it. The amount of retention on the gun in the holster is based, in part, on how much leather is in actual contact with the gun. The more direct contact, the greater the retention. In addition, by adding the definition lines, you present a more professional appearance IMO. That doesn't mean you have to do every little detail necessarily. It honestly shows you know what gun you have in the holster and how the holster fits around the gun. The appearance you have shown here would make me wonder what gun the holster is for and whether or not it would fit properly.

Hope this information helps.

[bruce johnson]

K-man,

Thanks for the feedback, that's why the first one is here. I made the slots 1-5/8" for ease in threading a 1-1/2" belt, Next one I'll just do the 1-1/2". I knew that stitch line was too far away once I molded it, but figured I was going to have at least a few more reasons for a "do-over" and so went on and finished it for critique. I used some skirting leveled to 11 oz, about right? I can do some more definition lines on the next one. The retention strap holds it well now, but as it loosens around the trigger guard, I think it may be able to fall back some and then be able to slip out. Also the angle I cut the strap at is a little different than the back of the slide. I need to adjust the pattern on the next one. Any other feedback is appreciaterd. I am going to give it a few days and pop another one out.

[K-Man]

Those belt slots looked longer than that (1 5/8") in the pics. I use 7oz on my OWB holsters. I use H.O. veg tanned, and they split it to the 7oz level, as well as putting the moss finish on the flesh side.

[abn]

I've never built a holster, so I don't have much to add other than it looks like you did a fine job for a first holster, Bruce, and I enjoyed reading K-Man's expert critique. Thanks for giving us all an education on holster construction.

-Alex

[Billsotx]

Bruce,

Kevin pretty well covered it from what I can see. He's been building good gun leather for a long time. What he's telling you on those belt loops is good advice - gospel. You want those belt loops as tight as Dick's hand-band. You don't want the holster to move on the belt unless you intentionally move it - it should take some effort. It should look like a man attached to a gun. Also what he saying regarding the grip clearance. You "must" be able to grasp the weapon with a perfect firing grip right from the get-go. We're fond of saying if you can't get a firm and final grip on the piece then modify the holster or pitch the thing. Only your life depends on it. What's that worth? You'll not get a good fit, retention wise, with 11 oz. leather. As far as the retention strap tuck it in tight before you install the snap. That'll be one of the last steps if you're bent on a strap. At first you will want to have to fuss with it a bit to snap it because it'll stretch out all too soon. Along those lines, if you're presentation is done correctly you should knock down the snap before you start drawing the piece from the leather - that goes a long way to reducing stretch and stress on that strap and your leather in general. Sometimes when a strap stretches you can drill out a snap and relocate it and tighten it up - only time will tell on that one. Most people let them go far to long before they fix them or pitch them. It's ideal that you start it off real tight and have to work a little to break it in. It's main purpose is to keep the gun from falling out, and it might give you an edge to react if someone attempts to grab the weapon. No strap is going to stop a gun grab. As you know I spent most of my adult life teaching cops how to fight with guns and all my thinking is along those lines. We won't drift further into that here, it's not the forum. If you decide to get real serious about your firearms handling you've got one of the best training schools right there in your backyard - Thunder Ranch Oregon. Shootin' a small part of it. Being able to run and maintain your gear is what too many take for granted. I haven't been up there to TRO, but I know it's the still the same doctrine we taught down here at Mt. Home. You can't go wrong, and there's others of course but not a close to you. I know you value schools from all the saddle schools you've gone to, and you can better yourself with your firearms skill if you reach out - bottom-line, the gun's just a tool, the mind's the weapon. Email me off list if you want to get more into the training arena. Look forward to seeing your next holster. You'll never know how much you saddle guys taught me about building gun leather - it's appreciated.

talk later,

Bill

[bruce johnson]

Bill,

Thanks for your input also. To back up a little, this holster is for a guy who cowboys. He wanted something he can carry on himself not so much for personal protection (although running cattle in the national forests that is getting to be an issue) as to shoot a down cow and stuff like that. With that in mind, any other type of closure or holster that might be more appropriate? He saw mine and thought that was something he wanted to try. I want to get it right just so I know more than I did. We can sure try some other styles too. I have a few tubs of scraps begging for projects like this.

[Billsotx]

Bill,

Thanks for your input also. To back up a little, this holster is for a guy who cowboys. He wanted something he can carry on himself not so much for personal protection (although running cattle in the national forests that is getting to be an issue) as to shoot a down cow and stuff like that. With that in mind, any other type of closure or holster that might be more appropriate? He saw mine and thought that was something he wanted to try. I want to get it right just so I know more than I did. We can sure try some other styles too. I have a few tubs of scraps begging for projects like this.

Buce,

There's nothing wrong with that design for what you're describing, especially is he's particial to that type. I'd think light and tight for horseback in my limited experience.

Yeah buddy, I caught the keyword - "down" cow! Them pines and redwoods are slow to climb even with a steer on your rear ... lol!

[TwinOaks]

Bruce,

If quick access to the pistol might be needed, stay with the strap. For horseback, or any other type riding where there's exposure to 'grabby' branches/brush, my personal preference leans towards a flap-over stye holster. That's as much for protection of the weapon as retention, but admittedly, it is NOT in an area where quick access would be needed- no critters ( 2 or 4 legged) to worry much about.

[Shorts]

In regard to the slots and the stitch line, a quick trick is to trace your slots on the drawn paper pattern as well as the stitch groove. This gives a rough template of where all your cuts and lines will be before you even touch the leather. Of course, things will slightly change due to the cutting and smoothing the shape of the edges, but you will have a better idea than if you went without.

In order to do the stitch grooves, just take your groover and run it over the curves where the slots will sit. It'll make a rub mark on the paper that you can trace with a pencil. You don't have to do this all the way around the paper pattern, just at the critical areas where the slots will sit.

[Rhome]

Bruce, you're more than welcome to come on down to my shop in Madera ( about 1hr from you ) and I'd be happy to show you what little I know about holster making.

Best,

Rhome