Newbee help needed.

[ToddMaine]

OK wading through the information there appears to be a 1000 ways to finish a project. I have not attempted to finish anything yet concentrating on my tooling. I would like to move to the finishing process and am looking for something really basic. From what i can tell it looks as if I need to apply a sealer as a first coat then antiquing paste then a sealer as a last coat. Maybe some brown stain in my back grounding. I will be going to the leather shop next friday https://www.mainelineleather.com/  and would like a list of what to get for the above. stain, sealer, antiquing, sealer. KISS method please...lol. Thanks for any help

[billybopp]

2 hours ago, ToddMaine said:

OK wading through the information there appears to be a 1000 ways to finish a project.

Yeah.  It can be overwhelming and when you include dyes, finishes, antiques and paint from different makers there are certainly more than 1000 combinations!  What you use and how you use it will be determined by what end effect you're looking for.  One resist finish will work well with one antique but not another, etc.  

You have the right idea, tho, for getting a good start.  Dye, resist/finish, antique/highlight, final finish.  Your dye can be a plain over all color, "painted color"(such as green leaves, etc), or even no dye at all before resist/antique.   Assuming you're looking to finish your deer & oak leaves (very nice, by the way), I'd suggest maybe no dye natural finish, a couple light coats of resolene/water 50/50 as a resist and then fiebings antique paste - possibly diluted with tan kote, allow to dry at least a day and finally more resolene/water in 3-4 light coats.  I'd avoid the eco-flo antique gel for now - it tends to penetrate resist, which can be used to good effect when you figure it out, but a little much for a first try.

Particularly if you're interested in using color more fully, I'd suggest stohlman's leather color books. and here.  The Tandy book is pretty good too.  As is Fiebings Fantastic Finishes.  Keep in mind, the Stohlman books are old and they tend to push the Tandy products (he was writing for them) and specific products are out of date but techniques are still solid.  

Here are a few examples of what I've done with color on some mug wraps that I've made.  They are a combination of embossed, stamped and hand carved.  Most of the colors are dyed (giving more muted color), and bright colors & white are paint.  

[JLSleather]

I use leather dye, and seal with either Tan-Kote or Resolene.  That's bout all i use.

I have never liked antique.  Don't like the look it gives -- messes up perfectly good leather.  I've seen some really great carvings basically ruined with it.  Common sense question, though -- WHY would I want to buy another product, to prevent or "resist" the antique (meaning 3 products) when I could just use a brush to put the dye where I want it in the first place?

Even just using dyes, a bazillion combinations.  cut to the short version... on my site are some "examples" of leather I've done - none of it has any antique, "resist", or lacquers. http://www.jlsleather.com/gallery/more-leather/

EDITED TO ADD:

I was talking about the antique FINISH so many seem to laud.  Sucks

I have used the Fiebing's antique STAIN on occasion.  And i have tried the antique DYE, but didn't care for it.

Edited February 26, 2017 by JLSleather

[ToddMaine]

5 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

I use leather dye, and seal with either Tan-Kote or Resolene.  That's bout all i use.

I have never liked antique.  Don't like the look it gives -- messes up perfectly good leather.  I've seen some really great carvings basically ruined with it.  Common sense question, though -- WHY would I want to buy another product, to prevent or "resist" the antique (meaning 3 products) when I could just use a brush to put the dye where I want it in the first place?

Even just using dyes, a bazillion combinations.  cut to the short version... on my site are some "examples" of leather I've done - none of it has any antique, "resist", or lacquers. http://www.jlsleather.com/gallery/more-leather/

 

JL your 2nd row 2nd and 3rd on in is what im looking for for my first holster. How would i achieve that?

[JLSleather]

Actually, my name isn't JL (it's Jeff).  The name on the page is J L S  not JL's

But which page?  Are you looking at teh holsters?  If you click on it, it should have a caption telling  you what it is.

[ToddMaine]

27 minutes ago, billybopp said:

 

You have the right idea, tho, for getting a good start.  Dye, resist/finish, antique/highlight, final finish.  Your dye can be a plain over all color, "painted color"(such as green leaves, etc), or even no dye at all before resist/antique.   Assuming you're looking to finish your deer & oak leaves (very nice, by the way), I'd suggest maybe no dye natural finish, a couple light coats of resolene/water 50/50 as a resist and then fiebings antique paste - possibly diluted with tan kote, allow to dry at least a day and finally more resolene/water in 3-4 light coats.  I'd avoid the eco-flo antique gel for now - it tends to penetrate resist, which can be used to good effect when you figure it out, but a little much for a first try.

Thanks for the response. I may finish the deer one but i am really looking for something to use on my first holster. Nice work by the way!!!

[ToddMaine]

3 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Actually, my name isn't JL (it's Jeff).  The name on the page is J L S  not JL's

But which page?  Are you looking at teh holsters?  If you click on it, it should have a caption telling  you what it is.

OK Jeff it is. Actually they are in your gallery and it was the wallets. Its the one with the eagle and the one next to in on the right. Its funny I was looking at your patterns the other day because a search for the Smith and Wesson Compact came up with you but it said the pattern wasnt available yet.

[ToddMaine]

on the holsters the 5th one down in first row and 3rd one down in second row.

 

[JLSleather]

Oh, that was done with chocolate leather dye from Fiebings, with a small brush.  Full strength in the background areas, thinned about 30:1 on the floral design (roughly).  Then covered with a coat of Tan-Kote when the dye was dry (next day).

Oh, and by the way - that's not my design. You can get the pattern for that one in Stohlman's holster book.

Edited February 26, 2017 by JLSleather

[ToddMaine]

6 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Oh, that was done with chocolate leather dye from Fiebings, with a small brush.  Full strength in the background areas, thinned about 30:1 on the floral design (roughly).  Then covered with a coat of Tan-Kote when the dye was dry (next day).

OK that sounds easy enough. How are you cutting the stain? 

[JLSleather]

Not stain.. DYE.  Reduced with .... [drum roll] .. dye REDUCER

Like I said, nothing fancy needed (though you will want a good brush, not that junk you often find at leather suppliers).

I use a different supplier, but using teh store you mention, yo'd want:

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-leather-dye-4-oz?variant=279098406

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-dye-reducer-4-oz

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-tan-kote-4-oz

And a brush can be had from art or hobby stores.  Red sable hair is the classic, but some others may work.

[ToddMaine]

5 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Not stain.. DYE.  Reduced with .... [drum roll] .. dye REDUCER

Like I said, nothing fancy needed (though you will want a good brush, not that junk you often find at leather suppliers).

I use a different supplier, but using teh store you mention, yo'd want:

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-leather-dye-4-oz?variant=279098406

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-dye-reducer-4-oz

https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-tan-kote-4-oz

And a brush can be had from art or hobby stores.  Red sable hair is the classic, but some others may work.

Thank you very much. That will be my first finish I am going to try!! I'll give it a shot on one of my practice pieces I have done first though...lol

[JLSleather]

De nada

Remember to get an empty bottle for mixing the dye and thinner.  I use a glass bottle and an eye dropper.  SOmething not prone to tipping ...

 

[ToddMaine]

[billybopp]

22 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

De nada

Remember to get an empty bottle for mixing the dye and thinner.  I use a glass bottle and an eye dropper.  SOmething not prone to tipping ...

 

Amen .. short wide mouth bottles such as baby food jars are great.  Most hobby shops will have plastic eye droppers that are cheap enough to consider disposable(although I keep 'em with a single color and get a few uses from 'em) and they should have decent brushes as well (worth the money for moderately expensive ones usually).  If you're coloring very small areas a paint palette such as this is pretty useful.

[JLSleather]

This is what I use. Cheap (you can get them cheap at hobby lobby or other places).  WOrks good.  The glass doesn't get stained (dye doesn't penetrate).  They don't tip.. you'd have to want to tip it.  And they seal, so once you have your color mixed, just put the lid on and it's ready for next time.

Keep in mind, they're glass, so if you knock it off the bench, teh "non-tip" is moot ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche-Jar-w-Cover-Gasket-3-oz-H-193-/331228464871?hash=item4d1ec146e7:g:oAEAAOxyEqNTlgRS

 

 

Edited February 26, 2017 by JLSleather

[ToddMaine]

3 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

This is what I use. Cheap (you can get them cheap at hobby lobby or other places).  WOrks good.  The glass doesn't get stained (dye doesn't penetrate).  They don't tip.. you'd have to want to tip it.  And they seal, so once you have your color mixed, just put the lid on and it's ready for next time.

Keep in mind, they're glass, so if you knock it off the bench, teh "non-tip" is moot ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche-Jar-w-Cover-Gasket-3-oz-H-193-/331228464871?hash=item4d1ec146e7:g:oAEAAOxyEqNTlgRS

 

 

Got it...I'm pretty clumsy so I like these