sewing machine for the noob

[a guy who sews]

I'm not going to be doing saddles or super heavy stuff. 

I want to make belts, bags, etc.

What kind of sewing machine for that?

[ContactCement]

Very important bring the leather with you to the dealer so they can demonstrate the results and limitations of their machines.

I  researched and looked sewing machines 5 years ago and just didn't have the money. I haven't chosen a machine mainly because leather is so expensive and there was no guarantee my projects would pay for the machine. A cylinder arm, compound feed or walking foot machine is what you are looking for. I prefer an open arm machine vs a flat bed. Also call the toll free manufacturer they are very polite and informative. Many used sewing machine dealers refurbish old machines and even re-paint them. Some dealers may say anything to make a sale or are too busy to answer a few simple questions. Tip. A heavily used machine will have the paint rubbed off near the needle plate. This however does not mean the machine will not function. Finally the bobbins maximum capacity relates to thread diameter and how many inches you can actually stitch before winding another bobbin. Next is the arm length you need or desire. Other factors are...Maximum needle size the machine can accept and maximum presser foot height. I'm unsure if a walking foot will leave teeth marks on your projects. Ask many questions and if the salesperson gets annoyed because you asked a few detailed questions just walk out and buy your machine from someone else. These machines can be expensive don't get pressured into buying the wrong one. Oh don't be fooled by people putting slightly tougher motors on antique household sewing machines then calling them leather sewing machines.

Good luck

Edited March 29, 2017 by ContactCement

[a guy who sews]

I'm leaning towards the Cowboy CB3200

[JimTimber]

That 3200 is probably a good choice.  Belts might seem easy, but I wouldn't trust running one on my Singer 211G that wasn't a dress belt not intended to support a gun.  Any gun belt weight would be too much for the 211G despite it being able to sew 1/8" veg tan to chrome tan pretty easily.  The 3200 is rated for 5/8" IIRC, and that'll give you some options you wouldn't have with a typical "leather" bed type sewing machine.

You can also add a table to a cylinder arm if you end up wanting some more support for the work.  Sewing a circular end on a bag with a bed machine is a great way to pull your hair out - especially if the material has any body to it.  I did some coat cuffs on my Singer, and attempted a bag end.  Didn't have my 441 clone at the time of the cuff repairs (sure would've worked a lot better!), and I gave up fighting the bag to then load the 441 with 69 thread, bought size 19 needles for it, and was much much happier with the results.

[kellyblues]

6 minutes ago, JimTimber said:

That 3200 is probably a good choice.  Belts might seem easy, but I wouldn't trust running one on my Singer 211G that wasn't a dress belt not intended to support a gun.  Any gun belt weight would be too much for the 211G despite it being able to sew 1/8" veg tan to chrome tan pretty easily.  The 3200 is rated for 5/8" IIRC, and that'll give you some options you wouldn't have with a typical "leather" bed type sewing machine.

 

+1    

[Red20]

On 3/29/2017 at 11:37 AM, ContactCement said:

Very important bring the leather with you to the dealer so they can demonstrate the results and limitations of their machines.

I  researched and looked sewing machines 5 years ago and just didn't have the money. I haven't chosen a machine mainly because leather is so expensive and there was no guarantee my projects would pay for the machine. A cylinder arm, compound feed or walking foot machine is what you are looking for. I prefer an open arm machine vs a flat bed. Also call the toll free manufacturer they are very polite and informative. Many used sewing machine dealers refurbish old machines and even re-paint them. Some dealers may say anything to make a sale or are too busy to answer a few simple questions. Tip. A heavily used machine will have the paint rubbed off near the needle plate. This however does not mean the machine will not function. Finally the bobbins maximum capacity relates to thread diameter and how many inches you can actually stitch before winding another bobbin. Next is the arm length you need or desire. Other factors are...Maximum needle size the machine can accept and maximum presser foot height. I'm unsure if a walking foot will leave teeth marks on your projects. Ask many questions and if the salesperson gets annoyed because you asked a few detailed questions just walk out and buy your machine from someone else. These machines can be expensive don't get pressured into buying the wrong one. Oh don't be fooled by people putting slightly tougher motors on antique household sewing machines then calling them leather sewing machines.

Good luck

My husband was looking to get me a machine for Christmas and someone talked him into getting a singer 99k. It's a cute little machine, but it has A LOT of limitations. I used it for my first few bags and quickly realized it was not going to work for what I needed. I hope no one else gets stuck with that problem!

[rodneywt1180b]

I don't know much about leather but I do have a pretty good working knowledge of old domestic sewing machines.

The Singer 99 is a personal favorite of mine.  They're sturdy and well built ,little machines BUT they were never made to sew thick leather.  They're fantastic little machines for kids to learn to sew on though, especially when you fit them with a hand crank.

If you're serious about leather don't bother with domestic machines.  Even the better ones like the Singer 201 or 15 really aren't designed for anything heavier than garment leather.  Most don't want a steady diet of that either.

Not all commercial machines are created equal either.  If you go for a used commercial machine make sure it's designed for heavier materials.  A machine set up to sew ladies underwear isn't likely to work well on heavy leather.  A lot of Craig's List and Ebay sellers like to claim their machines sew leather.  Verify the model and the machine's capabilities for yourself before you buy.

ISMACS is a great resource for researching old machines.  Here's a link to their section on Singer industrial machines.

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer_industrial_model_sewing_machines_and_accessories.html

It should at least give you an idea of what you're looking at.

Rodney

 

 

[a guy who sews]

Now that I've had time to know what I'll be working on. I think this might be overkill

 

I will be making handbags, purses - things with thin light leather. I'm not making saddles or anything heavy.

 

I'm thinking maybe a good Juki industrial sewing machine should be fine, yes? or is this not wise?