Chrome-tanned vs veg-tanned for shoe lining

[howie696]

On 4/6/2017 at 1:16 PM, Mike83 said:

Being in Australia, getting kangaroo isn't a problem. It's in the 2-3 oz range, since kangaroo skin doesn't get much thicker than that.

All the chrome-tanned roo seems to be finished/coated leather, though - I haven't found a source for aniline-dyed (or undyed), unfinished, chrome-tanned roo. Or goat, for that matter.  Lots of veg-tan, but no chrome-tan. Is there any issue using finished leather for boot lining? I tend to get sweaty feet, hence my interest in this.

I think "Birdsall" have chrome tanned roo in differant colours

 

[Mike83]

8 hours ago, bootsmt said:

There is no glue between the outer leather and the lining leather. I just read more of your post and saw that a boot maker is making the boots. Why are you not letting him or her tell you how the boots are put together and recommend what leathers to use? I would not be happy having a customer come to me and tell me they will decide what  leather I am suppose to use since they have no idea how to build a pair of boots. If he gave you choices and recommendations then I think it might be appropriate for some research. Do you trust this person to do a correct job? If you do then let him or her do their job.

The tops should never be made with thicker leather than the bottoms. The boot maker should have the sources for the correct leather and thickness.

 Frank

He gave me a shopping list of ideal components (normally keeps cheaper stuff himself, since most of his customers don't particularly care what the insole is made of, for instance). So I got all of them. But he left the upper and lining up to me, saying he could make them out of almost anything. Looking at the hippo-hide boots sitting in his shop, I tend to believe him...

[RockyAussie]

On 06/04/2017 at 3:16 PM, Mike83 said:

Being in Australia, getting kangaroo isn't a problem. It's in the 2-3 oz range, since kangaroo skin doesn't get much thicker than that.

All the chrome-tanned roo seems to be finished/coated leather, though - I haven't found a source for aniline-dyed (or undyed), unfinished, chrome-tanned roo. Or goat, for that matter.  Lots of veg-tan, but no chrome-tan. Is there any issue using finished leather for boot lining? I tend to get sweaty feet, hence my interest in this.

Its been awhile since I've made any boots but if your maker is in OZ he will know of a company called J.A.Brooks. http://www.jabrooks.com.au/

As they supply most anything for making and repairing shoes I would recommend the unsealed leather that is commonly used in surgical shoe making. If your feet do sweat a lot as mine have at times I have found putting 2 eyelet holes in the instep arch area works very well.(Not the sole but in the side of the shoe). As you walk air gets sucked in and out and keeps your feet dry unless you walk through water though. Regards Brian

[bootsmt]

Use unfinished lining leather,it should be soft and feel fluffier( for lack of a better term )  than the outer leather. Top leather should never be heavier than the vamps. 3 to 4 oz chrome tanned lining , I use what is called cream cow made to use for vamp lining, works well and absorbs moisture. Just make sure you use a good veg tan insole leather. The heavier the outside leather the warmer the boots.  

As far as no glue between the lining and the the outer leather I was referring to the vamps. Good luck. 

Frank

[Mike83]

20 minutes ago, bootsmt said:

Use unfinished lining leather,it should be soft and feel fluffier( for lack of a better term )  than the outer leather. Top leather should never be heavier than the vamps. 3 to 4 oz chrome tanned lining , I use what is called cream cow made to use for vamp lining, works well and absorbs moisture. Just make sure you use a good veg tan insole leather. The heavier the outside leather the warmer the boots.  

As far as no glue between the lining and the the outer leather I was referring to the vamps. Good luck. 

Frank

Thanks. 

I got some sole bends (11-12 iron) and insole shoulder (9-10 iron) from Baker, which was one of the two suggested sources.

Found some 4oz, unfinished, chrome-tanned goat - I suppose that should be good lining.

I'm looking at some 6-7oz shrunken grain bison for the upper, or perhaps a Horween zug leather of a similar weight. Looking for a pebbled appearance, but durability is pretty key here (how would latigo hold up?). Similar style to motorcycle 'engineer '-type boots.

[bootsmt]

It is up to you. Consult with your boot maker

[Mike83]

This particular boot maker is in Hong Kong (the other two I use regularly are in New Zealand and Argentina). He does excellent work craftsmanship-wise - welted, triple-stitched, etc. - and can make any design you can draw, but is happy to use pretty much anything in terms of materials (up to and including making a shoe upper from recycled tyres and seatbelts). Whether it's 2oz roo or 10 oz bridle leather, he says he can use it. So not much help from him in that regard.

I know the leather for most heavy work boots or hiking boots is in the 6-7 oz range (2.4-2.8mm), but is that including or excluding the lining (which would add another 3-4oz/1.2-1.6mm)?

I'm also looking at using Perlinger's shrunken calf, for the grain (http://www.fineleatherworking.com/shrunken-calf). Any idea if it would be hard-wearing enough for boots, or is it a fashion-only leather?