Cutting 7-8oz

[Dynamik1]

Since safety scissors in 1st grade I havent been a very good cutter. In beginning this exciting new hobby I bought a decent set of shears from TLF and thought I would be in good shape. I have been playing around with some scraps and dont seem to be having much success cutting things straight or on the lines. Does anybody have any suggestions? Should I be using a different tool than shears? My goal is to make pocket holsters as well as IWB and OWB, so the curves arent all that sharp, but I know I am going to have to be able to cut cleanly and precisely to make a quality product.

Any feedback appreciated.

[sodapop]

http://www.springfieldleather.com/WebPage....L=knives_olfa_2...some will say a round/head knife...but the olfa is a good knife, break away blades etc...

darryl

Edited January 7, 2009 by sodapop

[tashabear]

Try a razor knife or box cutter. Shears cause the leather to skew, especially the heavier weights. They're good for rough cuts, but I tend to use a box cutter for the final trimdown.

[MADMAX22]

I use to use box cutter style blades and the regular craft exacto's but since I got a head (round) knife and it is by far the best way Ive tried so far. It may not be for the tight corners and such but for just about everything else it totally rocks (IMHO).

[Dynamik1]

...a head (round) knife ... is by far the best way Ive tried so far ... it totally rocks (IMHO).

Max,

Forgive my Newbie ignorance, but a head knife has a cylindrical wooden handle like an awl, but a 'half-moon' blade on the end right? How is this used? Do you line it up for a straight cut and 'rock' it in a slicing motion?

[Jordan]

I have used a variety of cutters, mostly Gingham shears and have found that as long as they are wicked sharp any of them will do the job. Some, you need a lot of practice and concentration (head knife, yes half moon evil looking thing) to make sure you cut only the leather item you want, not any of the all important body parts!

[Art]

Hi ____?,

I have never found shears to be easy for anything but gross cutting, although I have an electric round (well octagonal) knife from skill that is way better and faster for that. I have many head knives, some would say a collection, and I use them a lot, however a utility knife that is sharp and stropped also works. For really fine work, a surgical scalpel with #11 blade is a dandy little thing. A clicker knife is also very helpful in tight places doing heavy work a scalpel shouldn't be doing, keep it sharp. For outside curves, a head knife is my choice, but a utility knife will do. For inside curves, there is nothing that will do them better than the proper size round punch. I have them in sizes from less than 1/8" to well over 3", they cut a constant curve you can't match with a knife, keep them sharp.

The most important thing with knives is the ability to keep them sharp, more so than which knife you use. I know one leatherworker who uses mostly an old Case pocket knife which is wickedly sharp, and he seems to have been using it for at least 20 years that I know of. Before you buy a new knife, be confident in your ability to sharpen, hone, and strop anything. Different knives do different things better, there is not one "best" overall knife, however there may be an overall best knife for you, of all of your knives, it is the one you grab most often.

Art

Since safety scissors in 1st grade I havent been a very good cutter. In beginning this exciting new hobby I bought a decent set of shears from TLF and thought I would be in good shape. I have been playing around with some scraps and dont seem to be having much success cutting things straight or on the lines. Does anybody have any suggestions? Should I be using a different tool than shears? My goal is to make pocket holsters as well as IWB and OWB, so the curves arent all that sharp, but I know I am going to have to be able to cut cleanly and precisely to make a quality product.

Any feedback appreciated.

[badger]

Cutting tools really are a matter of personal preference.

There isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' way, or tool, if you get the result you need to make your work as good as it can be.

Bottom line is; if your hands can do what your mind wants, and a certain tool allows that to happen safely...it's the right way (for you).

I do 95% of my cutting, even through the thickest leather, with a standard utility knife, the cheap kind, with the blades sharpened and then stropped to a polish. I sold or gave away most of my head knives. The trick is to keep whatever you cut with lethally sharp. I mean the kind of sharp that makes a scalpel look like a wood rasp. John Bianchi says that if you can hear the knife cutting through the leather, it isn't sharp enough.

Keep your tools sharp, your hands clear and cut slowly.

Just my opinion, mind.

Cheers,

Karl

I agree with Jordan, cutting bits off yourself isn't a good way to lose weight

[Rawhide]

How to use a head knife

This is a link to the tips page that shows how to use a head knife. It's a scan of the Al Stohlman instruction on using it.

[hidepounder]

Dynamik 1

All of the responses you have received are good advice. Box knives, scalpels, pocket knives...they all will get the job done nicely! The important issue is learning to sharpen and polish the cutting edges.

I, like Art, have a collection of knives and other wicked cutting instraments...most of which sit in a box, never to be used again. I am a staunch advocate of learning to use a head (round) knife. Once you learn to use them, it is easy to cut a straight line, within the limits of a pencil mark, with no guide...I'm not exaggerating! The properties of the knife make them easy to use. There is definitely a learning curve and I avoided it for a long time because I didn't know how to sharpen properly. Once I learned how to make a head knife wicked sharp, there was no going back!

99% of my cutting is done with a head knife. I use a paring style straight knife to complete an inside corner cut made with the head knife and I use one of those rolling cutters on 2-3 oz leather...it's pretty handy and I use it only because I have it...I don't need it.

If you decide to make the big leap to buy a head or round knife...get a good one...don't compromise...you'll use it for life. So that's my two cents worth of free advice...hope it helps!

Just remember...don't bleed on the leather!

Bob

Edited January 7, 2009 by hidepounder

[tashabear]

I have used a variety of cutters, mostly Gingham shears...

You mean Gingher, right? I don't have the Gingher leather shears, but I love and adore my Gingher dressmaking shears.

[Dynamik1]

There is definitely a learning curve and I avoided it for a long time because I didn't know how to sharpen properly. Once I learned how to make a head knife wicked sharp, there was no going back!

Thanks to all! I have heard "Head knife" several times and each time it's accompanied by an admonition that it's difficult to learn to use properly . . . if I did a SEARCH would I find a good tutorial on this site of how to use AND sharpen a head knife? I prefer to take the time to learn to use the best tool for the job.

[Gibbsleatherworks]

Ive seen a few videos on youtube on sharpening and using the head "round" knife.

sharpening

sharpening

cutting

skiving

Dont discount the box cutter with the stiff blade (not razor blade). With it cut in a couple of passes.

Sharpness is essential. Theres a barbers trick to test for sharpness, rub the edge of the blade lightly and slowly over a damp thumb nail. To a barber, if it doesnt drag its not sharp enough. FWIW

Edited January 7, 2009 by Gibbsleatherworks

[tonyc1]

Ive seen a few videos on youtube on sharpening and using the head "round" knife.

sharpening

sharpening

cutting

skiving

Dont discount the box cutter with the stiff blade (not razor blade). With it cut in a couple of passes.

Sharpness is essential. Theres a barbers trick to test for sharpness, rub the edge of the blade lightly and slowly over a damp thumb nail. To a barber, if it doesnt drag its not sharp enough. FWIW

I would never sharpen my knives with a stone used that in the first video, it's just too coarse, I'm sure the edge would be like a saw. Cutting edge needs to have finish as smooth as possible to eliminate as much drag as possible. I'd only use a stone like that on the woodheap axe.

Tony.

[Art]

Hi Tony,

I'm not sure that stone was much better than my garage floor, and from the video, the result didn't appear to be as sharp as I like it either. Some of the demonstration cutting got fingers in front of blade. He took the time to make the videos though.

Art

I would never sharpen my knives with a stone used that in the first video, it's just too coarse, I'm sure the edge would be like a saw. Cutting edge needs to have finish as smooth as possible to eliminate as much drag as possible. I'd only use a stone like that on the woodheap axe.

Tony.

[Windy]

Thanks to all! I have heard "Head knife" several times and each time it's accompanied by an admonition that it's difficult to learn to use properly . . . if I did a SEARCH would I find a good tutorial on this site of how to use AND sharpen a head knife? I prefer to take the time to learn to use the best tool for the job.

The best tool for the job is the one that when you use it , it does

the job. Some people can never get the hang of certain things

whether is using a head knife or a sharpening stone. Every person

has a different degree of mechanical aptitude and eye hand

coordination. I know men who never have managed to drive a

car with a clutch. If you can not get the hang of using a certain

knife just find one you can use. If it is sharp it will cut leather if

it is dull it will cut leather, just a little rougher finish will be left.

WINDY

[tonyc1]

I like to have my knives sharp enough to cut whatever I'm cutting in one pass. I don't like hacking the leather in 2 or 3 passes, it can get a bit ragged looking when that happens.

Tony.

[Gibbsleatherworks]

I would never sharpen my knives with a stone used that in the first video, it's just too coarse, I'm sure the edge would be like a saw. Cutting edge needs to have finish as smooth as possible to eliminate as much drag as possible. I'd only use a stone like that on the woodheap axe.Tony.

Wow, forgive me for attempting to help someone that asked for it. Thanks for chopping my legs out from under me. That was hurtful, I had assumed this was a friendly forum. Of course its always easier to find fault in someone than it is to offer a solution.

Hi Tony,I'm not sure that stone was much better than my garage floor, and from the video, the result didn't appear to be as sharp as I like it either. Some of the demonstration cutting got fingers in front of blade. He took the time to make the videos though.Art

And I expected more from a moderator.

[tonyc1]

That would be the farthest thing from my mind! There have been some excellent articles on here re. sharpening knives and stressing that they need to be sharp to do a good job. Using that type of stone just isn't one of them. I've been cutting leather and sharpening knives for 42 years and I wouldn't suggest to anyone to do it in a fashion I thought was incorrect. Practice doesn't make perfect, only perfect practice, makes perfect. You don't keep doing anything the wrong way because you'll always do it the wrong way. If there is a better way to do things you should try it, you can learn something new everyday, I know I do.

Tony.

[whinewine]

You mean Gingher, right? I don't have the Gingher leather shears, but I love and adore my Gingher dressmaking shears.

Ginghers are the finest shears out there. I got my first back in the '70s, when tandy first sold them, and have had several since. Tandy is now selling them again, after years of pushing their own imitation Ginghers, which are called "Pro Super Shears" (which, in comparison to real Ginghers, are like kindergarten scissors).

[Art]

My wife uses Gingher scissors for her sewing (and she has everything they make as they have been a convenient birthday or stocking stuffer gift for years). When she saw the Gingher name at Tandy back in the '90s, she said to buy them, the price was decent and I couldn't go wrong. However, it is probably me, I just can't go at a piece of leather with scissors and come out with a good (or accurate) cut, yet the wife can. Of course she scares the hell out of me when she uses one of my knives; after much training (read frantic yelling and screaming) she is better with guns.

I really learned (or re-learned) to use a head knife from Verlane Desgrange, and she never pulled any punches if she saw you doing something wrong. I appreciated that method and follow it myself. Put a finger in front of a blade that is cutting and I will remark about it. Proffer that as a teaching tool and I really will remark about it. Off hands should be as far away from the cutting edge as the hand holding the knife in the opposite direction of the cut.

For a video of a leatherworker using the head knife correctly, Lenny McGill made a video of John Bianchi designing and making a holster and cartridge belt, it also covers a small piece about sharpening which is very good. Please note that John Bianchi is the consummate salesman, and obviously there were sponsors involved and he pushed their products but quite often used his own. You can purchase the video here.

Art

Ginghers are the finest shears out there. I got my first back in the '70s, when tandy first sold them, and have had several since. Tandy is now selling them again, after years of pushing their own imitation Ginghers, which are called "Pro Super Shears" (which, in comparison to real Ginghers, are like kindergarten scissors).

[Jordan]

Yes I meant gingher or more specifically the gingher clone that is sold by tandy and others, they work pretty well for me in most situations, sharp is the key. Injury with dull tools in any line of work, is almost always worse, not getting injured is best though.

[badger]

Art,

I have the Bianchi videos too.

I know what you mean about pushing sales, but I think there was a great deal of educational value to be had from them. I really enjoyed them when I was just starting out in leatherwork. Lots of good tricks and tips, but more than that, John worked hard to instill pride and professionalism as well. His whole approach was one of care and precision. I admired his businesslike attitude.

The big sponsor was Tandy, as I recall.

Cheers,

Karl

[Art]

Hi Karl,

Tandy and possibly Ferdco. I have the videos on VHS, I think they come on DVD now. They were done back in '95 or so and I still watch them and end-up writing something down. I don't pay much attention to the design parts anymore as I think everyone goes their own way with that, but John is truly a master in design and construction. Well worth the 50 or 60 bucks the DVDs cost, they can be found a little cheaper, but not much.

Art

Art,

I have the Bianchi videos too.

I know what you mean about pushing sales, but I think there was a great deal of educational value to be had from them. I really enjoyed them when I was just starting out in leatherwork. Lots of good tricks and tips, but more than that, John worked hard to instill pride and professionalism as well. His whole approach was one of care and precision. I admired his businesslike attitude.

The big sponsor was Tandy, as I recall.

Cheers,

Karl

[badger]

Hey Art,

I got a bonus DVD with the set when I bought them a few years ago. It's an in-depth interview with John. Really interesting how he started out and developed his business from nothing.

I agree with you 100%, John's a great designer. The DVDs are well worth the money. I built my edge burnishing machine following the directions he gave.

I think the biggest problem with a beginner watching someone like John, who's a master with the Head knife, is that he makes it look way too easy

Cheers,

Karl