Rolandranch Report post Posted July 21, 2017 Hello, saddlemakers and leatherworkers! I was given an old saddle that badly needed new leather. I took it apart but left the leather build-up for the seat. I plan on cutting out the new leather in almost the same pattern as the old. What I need to know right now is what and how much leather to get and where do I cut out each saddle piece on the hide. Any videos on cutting out the saddle pieces would be greatly appreciated as well. Here is the tree: Thank you! ~Ryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cowboycolonel Report post Posted July 21, 2017 Have you ever heard of re-inventing the wheel? This will be as if you were starting over, but with used parts. The Al Stohlman Saddlemaking encyclopedia will show you a layout arrangement for the parts, and will provide patterns as well. The set can be bought from Tandy for a pretty good price. Don't bother buying them individually, because it will cost more. You need Volumes 1 and 2. Depending on what you're going to do with the saddle, trail use, cowboying, display, etc, you will want two sides of skirting leather. Opinions vary as to what weight to use in what area, but I'd start with a 9 - 10 side and an 11 - 13 or bigger. Fill all existing holes to start with, and then you can start. Dusty Johnson sells DVDs on saddlemaking, and also provides pattern and written instructions. Bill Gomer's videos are good as well. Good Luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolandranch Report post Posted July 22, 2017 Yes, I've re-invented the wheel before. Actually, I've been wanting to make a saddle and I think taking apart an old saddle and using the tree is a good way to start because now I know how it's put together. I'm planning on getting that encyclopedia soon. This saddle is mainly for trails but I also want to do some non-intensive roping with it. In the future, (when I'm rich and experienced) I'll build myself a sturdy and good quality saddle specifically for roping. Is there a place to get sides for a cheaper price than Tandy's Elite pricing? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Squilchuck Report post Posted July 23, 2017 Do yourself a huge favor and spring for Hermann Oak leather. I used cheaper leather to save money when I started, but soon found that using the best leather saves time and frustration - it looks, carves, colors, cuts, and molds the best. You'll put a lot of time into making the saddle, so spending a few dollars more on good leather will give you a saddle to be proud of! I buy from Montana Leather or Hide House. -- John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB BRENNER Report post Posted July 23, 2017 Do not want to discourage you In the project, but would advise that you do not use the tree pictured. Some of the rawhide lace stitching is broken and and there are a couple of places the rawhide is beginning to fracture. You are going to spend $1000.00 give or take in materials with a tree that questionable. Could endup as an expensive decoration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolandranch Report post Posted July 24, 2017 7 hours ago, BOB BRENNER said: Do not want to discourage you In the project, but would advise that you do not use the tree pictured. Some of the rawhide lace stitching is broken and and there are a couple of places the rawhide is beginning to fracture. You are going to spend $1000.00 give or take in materials with a tree that questionable. Could endup as an expensive decoration. Could it be repaired? Would that be worth it? I don't especially want to go shopping for another tree but at the same time, I don't want to build an "expensive decoration" like you said. As I said in a previous post, this saddle is mainly for trails so there won't be a whole lot of stress on it. Thank you for bringing it up because I was wondering the same thing. Ryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cowboycolonel Report post Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Roland. You can buy a new tree for less than $300, which is a whole lot cheaper than medical care and a whole lot less frustrating than trying to figure out why you horse has a sore back and won't stand still to be saddled. Brenner knows whereof he speaks! Taking apart an old saddle will yield some lessons, but best you not learn others by trying to re-build something that will end up being just as expensive, take more time, and end up hurting you AND the horse. ... and then you can even get a tree that won't make you do welts on your first saddle. Look for one of the Bowman trees to begin with -- much simpler and you'll like the result. Go to Saddletree.com. Edited July 24, 2017 by cowboycolonel completeness Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
