Members Constabulary Posted September 12, 2017 Members Report Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) Well - the optical condition and missing parts at the Brother makes me change my mind... Still not much information for making a decision but from the pictures I see I would most likely go with the 267 and add a servo motor (looks like it has a clutch motor) - $500 is a very good price for a 267. If the Brother is not complete its most likely not complete for a reason - I´d consider it as a restoration project - at least from what the picture tells. Wasn´t the 267 the last w/o a oil pump in the x67 series? Not sure... As Wiz said - test sew the machines when ever possible! Also - check the condition of the timing belts - when they are brittle, cracked, have missing teeth or seem to be very worn better do not buy the machine - replacing timing belts is not the funniest work you can do on a sewing machine. It can be a real pain ITA. Edited September 12, 2017 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Ballu Posted September 13, 2017 Author Members Report Posted September 13, 2017 On 12/09/2017 at 10:20 PM, Wizcrafts said: It could be a problem with a self oiling machine, but not a manually oiled model. Some folks with self oilers will unthread and run them at full speed before sewing commences. This pushes the oil around the Wiz, I will definitely try both machines before buying, thanks for reply. Quote
Members Ballu Posted September 13, 2017 Author Members Report Posted September 13, 2017 23 hours ago, Constabulary said: Well - the optical condition and missing parts at the Brother makes me change my mind... Still not much information for making a decision but from the pictures I see I would most likely go with the 267 and add a servo motor (looks like it has a clutch motor) - $500 is a very good price for a 267. If the Brother is not complete its most likely not complete for a reason - I´d consider Yes constabulary the optical condition is not pleasing, and for the missing parts the guy says he intentionally disassembled the machin and he is having them all, surely I'll try both the machines and also will look for cracked or damaged timing belts, I'll revert back once I get my hands on the machines , thanks for reply Quote
Members Ballu Posted November 30, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 30, 2017 Hi guys how are you doing, I finally got the adler it is a 267-373, it is running quite well, but, I bargained it to 350 dollars front 500.i have some questions, 1) should the middle walking foot touch bottom feed dog when the lever is down, because while turning the wheel the machine poses some resistance when the foot touches bottom feed dog. 2) I am not sure if it is auto oiled or manual, the previous owner use to put oil in 2-3 location on top and some location at bottom and in the bobin .If it's manually oiled then how much oil should I poure 3) when I tested the machine it was having two tension adjusters one small at top and a bigger at middle of machine, but I lost the smaller one at top in transport, the machine is still sewing good, I want to know will it be a problem using only one adjuster. Thanks all. Quote
Members R8R Posted November 30, 2017 Members Report Posted November 30, 2017 2 hours ago, Ballu said: Hi guys how are you doing, I finally got the adler it is a 267-373, it is running quite well, but, I bargained it to 350 dollars front 500.i have some questions, 1) should the middle walking foot touch bottom feed dog when the lever is down, because while turning the wheel the machine poses some resistance when the foot touches bottom feed dog. 2) I am not sure if it is auto oiled or manual, the previous owner use to put oil in 2-3 location on top and some location at bottom and in the bobin .If it's manually oiled then how much oil should I poure 3) when I tested the machine it was having two tension adjusters one small at top and a bigger at middle of machine, but I lost the smaller one at top in transport, the machine is still sewing good, I want to know will it be a problem using only one adjuster. Thanks all. Nice machine for a nice price! 1) Yes the center foot should make contact with the feed dogs, this is the unison feed feature (needle + foot + feed dog) all feed the materials together. The outer foot holds the materials in place for a brief moment. If there is a great deal of resistance, the timing may be off. There should be some resistance you will feel with the handwheel though. 2) On just about any/all industrial machines, if auto-oiled there would be a pan mounted underneath with a removable drain plug and some indication of low and high oil level markings. If manually oiled, maybe a simple catch pan underneath and many oil port holes on top and around the machine surfaces. When in doubt, add at least several drops to each port, and open up the machine and add oil to any and all moving parts that make contact with each other. Pivots, bushings, bearings, connectors, etc, oil them all. Use a little extra when first oiling and wipe away any excess. Use ONLY clear sewing oil, made for sewing machines. Any other oil will gunk it up. TIP - and this applies to all machines, everywhere - keep it very clean. Dust, dirt, lint etc on the outside all make it into moving parts eventually, and sewing oil can quicken that process. Keep things clean and well oiled and it will last a lifetime. 3) Maybe you mean the tension adjuster knob for the bobbin winder? The thread should wrap though this tension disk assembly first before going to the bobbin. The machine will run without it, but properly winding bobbins will be difficult. See this vid - the top center knob adjusts the foot pressure. The small knob is on the bobbin winder tensioner (with the red thread running through it to the bobbin winder) Quote
Members Ballu Posted November 30, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 30, 2017 Hi R8R thanks for a quick reply The tension assembly for bobin was already missing, Iam talking about the small round knob directly above the main tension knob,was that something very important. And about the foot resistance, when hand crancked every thing runs smoothly for some rotations then all of a sudden it offers resistance some times small and some times too much, the machine was sitting for almost 7-8 months will that be a problem, also a tiny piece of thread Is tangled below the bobin assembly and it's not coming out, I don't have the guts to disassemble the bobin assembly. Thanks Quote
Members Constabulary Posted November 30, 2017 Members Report Posted November 30, 2017 (edited) The tension unit on top for the bobbin winder is a quite cheap part you don´t need original Adler part here. I put one of these on top of by BUSMC #6 bobbin winder https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/SB3571-1-01-BOBBIN-WINDER-TENSION-ASSY-BROTHER College sewing could be a good spare parts source for you anyway. Hope this help with your hook. Edited November 30, 2017 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Ballu Posted December 5, 2017 Author Members Report Posted December 5, 2017 Hi R8R, and constabulary your advice helped a lot, after some oiling and cleaning the machine is running good, I opened the top lid and didn't find any oil tank or pump, so Iam guessing it is manually oiled, One more question for you guys,, what is heaviest thread I can use with this machine,,, it is a Da k267-373 Thanks Quote
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