LtharK Report post Posted February 18, 2018 Hello to All, I have used my Dixon plough gauge for too many years to count, and never have had any trouble at all. Then, a few days ago, I got things set up to cut some 1-1/4" straps from a rather firm 8-9oz. tooling oak hide. As soon as I started the cut, I felt that the forward pressure needed to make the cut was far greater than it should have been. I had to lean into it with all the muscle I could muster. I assumed that, despite my careful preparation, the blade was not properly sharpened, and so I backed out the tool, removed the blade, and sharpened it again. I tested it on the same piece of leather, and the blade glided through with only modest effort. But then, as soon as I put the newly sharpened blade back into the tool, its forward progress became extremely difficult once again. As it should be, the blade is highly polished flat on one side, and is beveled on the other. I'm not certain, but I believe that because it is a single bevel, it is causing the leather to tighten against the fence of the tool restricting my progress. Whatever the cause of the problem, I need some help, and would welcome any thoughts about what can solve this old tool's new problem. Many thanks, Lothar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bermudahwin Report post Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Hi Lothar, I have always sharpened my plough gauge both sides, like my head knife and my round knife. The only bench knife I sharpen one side only is my skiving knife. This is what we were taught back in the 80s by Dickens, at Cordwainers College, and he was the Queen's side saddle maker, so, until your post, I've never questioned it. I wish I had a spare blade to test it, as it seems logical, but Dicken's way works too. I'm intrigued to here other's comments now. Edited February 18, 2018 by hwinbermuda smell chick error on tablet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Les No6 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 It should be equal both sides a little finer than a round knife, that's the correct profile. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LtharK Report post Posted February 18, 2018 Hi again, I'm eager to learn, but have been using this tool for over forty years, and have never before been instructed other than "single bevel" for the blade. My understanding had always been that with that single bevel, the leather would be pulled into the fence, and that would produce a strap with more accurately parallel sides, and until these recent cuts, all worked well. I hope others will comment, but I hesitate to experiment because I can't easily replace this great old blade. Sincere thanks for further thoughts on this, Lothar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockoboy Report post Posted February 24, 2018 Could it be just that piece of leather that is a lot tougher to cut? If you have been using this plough gauge for so many years with no problems, there has to be something that you have changed recently that makes all the difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bermudahwin Report post Posted February 24, 2018 If its worked for 40 years, stick with it. It's similar time for me; every finds the way that works for them. I know that friends skive differently to me, and having worked with British Library bookbinders, they do things differently too. Brian's comments make a lot of sense. One thought may be a build up of dust tightening the roller. Best Harry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites