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So I agreed to help out a friend.  First mistake right there.  She needed an old reenactment belt dyed a new color.  No problem, since it was brown, the new color was darker, and I have all of the stuff I need. 

Well... it's not brown.  It WAS black before it was left in a garage for years to dry out and die.  The finish was flaking off, the leather was cracked, and I made a promise.  

I started with fine grit sandpaper and knocked off all of the finish that was coming off, and I think it'll take the new dye with signs of the belt's history showing through.  Which is a good thing in this context.

Now it's time for the chemicals and the part where I'm in over my head:  It's super dry and needs to be reconditioned back to life, and the (water-based) dye needs to be applied, finished, buffed, etc.  I'm hoping the more experienced among you can give me suggestions on how to do the reconditioning and when to do it (Before dyeing. after dyeing.  Do X, then Dye, then Y.  etc)

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Put coat of Neetsfoot oil on let sit 24 hrs. Repeat till not dry. Go light you can add more can't take out. Then dye and finish. That would be my steps.

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Agree on the Neetsfoot oil.  Also, after the oil, and the dye, it may become stiff again.  With alcohol based dyes, I've used Aussie after the dye to bring it back to life.  I have done the same with water based dyes, but it takes a bit more to get into the leather.  I've put Aussie on the backside as well, especially with leashes that I want to have some water resistance and more flexibility.  Not a lot, just put a bit on and apply a bit of heat with a hair dryer - don't cook the leather, just until the Aussie melts, and rub it in.  Leave it for a day or so, see if it needs any more.  What kind of water based dye are you using?

A photo of the item you are working with might help us to see what you are dealing with and may elicit better suggestions.

YinTx

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