Needle bar hitting outside foot on Adler 67

[HardenGoods]

Hey guys, thought I'd touch base with the community before I started modifying. I recently purchased several sets of presser feet for my Adler 67 GK 373. One of the sets was a Kwok Hing KP267Q (as pictured  below). When the needle bar makes its decent down towards the hook, the thread guide on the needle bar touches the outside presser foot with enough force to do damage.

Was wondering If there was an adjustment I could make to my machine but I'm assuming no as the needle bar is set to meet the hook at perfect timing already. Because these specialised feet protrude forward (as they are intended to) I am wondering if slight foot modification is necessary. 

Machine has been timed and serviced and sews beautifully with all other foot sets. 

Any advice would be appreciated - thank you in advance. 

Edited March 26, 2018 by HardenGoods
To better the description.

[Uwe]

You may simply need to rotate your needle bar a little so that the part that sticks out no longer touches the presser foot. That Q-design is taller on the left side than other feet. 

A picture of your needle bar near the presser foot would help.

In general, don't run new accessories under power until you are certain that there is no interference.

 

[HardenGoods]

18 minutes ago, Uwe said:

You may simply need to rotate your needle bar a little so that the part that sticks out no longer touches the presser foot.

That was the first thing I tried after re checking timing. Unfortunately, still touches. 

18 minutes ago, Uwe said:

A picture of your needle bar near the presser foot would help.

Below. I've tried several thicknesses of leather and (obviously) the thinner the material the less chance of contact. 

18 minutes ago, Uwe said:

In general, don't run new accessories under power until you are certain that there is no interference.

 

Yes, I agree that this is good practice. 

[Uwe]

It looks to me like you could rotate the needle bar a little more to move the thread guide hole closer to the 7 o'clock position and still have access to the needle clamp screw, too.

I know that several people have made this Q-feet work on Adler 67 machines without requiring modification of the foot.

Sometimes these interference issues crop up when the machine is timed using a shorter needle than the specs call for. Double check your needle system.

Edited March 26, 2018 by Uwe

[HardenGoods]

8 minutes ago, Uwe said:

It looks to me like you could rotate the needle bar a little more to move the thread guide hole closer to the 7 o'clock position and still have access to the needle clamp screw, too.

I know that several people have made this Q-feet work on Adler 67 machines without requiring modification of the foot.

Sometimes these interference issues crop up when the machine is timed using a shorter needle than the specs call for. Double check your needle system.

Thank you Uwe, I was worried that moving the needle bar over more, even slightly, would interfere with my machine's sewing abilities (although it seems a long shot as it would be something like 1/32" of a turn). Going to double check all systems and will report back. Thanks for your input!

[Uwe]

Make sure you don't change the height of the needle bar as you rotate it and that you're not creating a new interference elsewhere (e.g. needle screw towards the back.) It's tight quarters and every millimeter counts. Also re-align the needle itself again to make the needle's scarf point to the right.

[HardenGoods]

47 minutes ago, Uwe said:

Make sure you don't change the height of the needle bar as you rotate it and that you're not creating a new interference elsewhere (e.g. needle screw towards the back.) It's tight quarters and every millimeter counts. Also re-align the needle itself again to make the needle's scarf point to the right.

I used your paper clamp idea (from the 67 timing video) to hold the bar hieght in place while I rotated it slightly. 

You were right Uwe. I purchased this machine in very poor condition. The previous owner was using singer bobbins in it and 134 needles, vs 134-135 (which I'm now assuming are a little longer). I'm somewhat new to industrial sewing machines but have been reading/watching everything I can. My previous problem I had posted about was in regards to extremely random top knots. A little research and I find out the bobbins that came with (and inside) the machine are several mm wider than the proper bobbin: part number 068-180-0. 

My biggest mistake was assuming the accessories and original setup of the machine was correct. Learning some really critical things here.. actually, your Juki LU-563 video taught me a lot of important pieces of information too. Luckily I purchased my 441 clone and accessories new so not as many learning curves there (and looking forward to modifying my blanket feet into in-line too). 

[HardenGoods]

My apologies for the double post. I meant to attach this but don't see an edit button and am new to the site. Needles that came with the machine:

Edited March 27, 2018 by HardenGoods
Grammar

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

You seem to be on the correct path, as you mentioned, the correct needle system is 134-35, and is a longer needle than a 134.  You will have to correct the needle bar height, but the needle bar and thread guide will then in turn be nowhere near close to hitting the presser feet.  

 

 

Edited March 27, 2018 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

[HardenGoods]

2 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

You seem to be on the correct path, as you mentioned, the correct needle system is 134-35, and is a longer needle than a 134.  You will have to correct the needle bar height, but the needle bar and thread guide will then in turn be nowhere near close to hitting the presser feet.  

 

 

Needle being longer would lift the needle bar higher and out of the way after adjusting - that makes perfect sense Gregg! New needles and I'm pretty sure this case is closed. Thanks for the insight, I appreciate it!