Guest Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 Hey all, I mentioned a few posts ago that I had an order for another Jesus seat. Well, after some discussion, I reached an understanding with the customer that I would design an all new Jesus seat for him. My previous Jesus seat was actually the tattoo on the owner of Sucker Punch Sallys. I didn't want to just reproduce his tattoo even tho that is what the new customer wanted. So, here goes. Today I cut front and rear seat leathers and transfered my new design to the leather. I cut the entire design and began tooling.... It is near 11pm as I post this so I am about done for the day. Quote
Ambassador freak Posted June 22, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted June 22, 2007 WOW !! I'm going straight to my local TLF in the morning and punching them all right in the @ss !! That's extremely clean looking and i love the design. I'm starting to think all my leatherworking tools are bent. Yeah that's it, there all freakin bent. Quote It takes more then one freak to have a true freakshow. So take a seat , the show is about to start. Check out the freakSHOW
Ambassador Don101 Posted June 22, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted June 22, 2007 David your work is amazing and dosent stop impressing me each time you do a different seat, style, desighn, and such clean work and so original, i just love small words like WOW Quote
Ambassador Beaverslayer Posted June 22, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted June 22, 2007 Again David your work is Excelent, I am very impressed with your attention to the details. Just BEAUTIFUL.... Ken Quote Beaverslayer Custom Leather<br />Wearable Works of Art https://www.facebook...erCustomLeather
Members leathernut Posted June 22, 2007 Members Report Posted June 22, 2007 nice job dave.detail is mindblowing like usual. Quote http://hellbentcustomseats.blogspot.com/
BruceGibson Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 Excellent, Dave. Thank you for taking the time to do a series of pictures. Quote "Don't squat with your spurs on." www.GibsonLeather.com
Members CitizenKate Posted June 22, 2007 Members Report Posted June 22, 2007 Love your work, David! Kate Quote
Members bustedlifter Posted June 22, 2007 Members Report Posted June 22, 2007 Dig it, very cool! Quote
Roger Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 very cool david! i really lke the design. i am at the smokeout and took a couple pics of "the bike" i'll have to post them when i get a chance Quote
Guest Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 very cool david! i really lke the design. i am at the smokeout and took a couple pics of "the bike" i'll have to post them when i get a chance Aww, now somehow that just isn't fair, Roger gets pics of the bike with MY seat on it before I even get to see it completed.....lol Please do post them Beeze, I'm anxious to see it finished......I saw it with my seat and a rear fender on it, but the rest of the tins were just sitting on the table waiting to be put on. I liked what I saw; it was an unusual bike for Sucker Punch they rarely use billet wheels. It is my understanding that they are intending to market those wheels..... Thanks again Buddy, Dave Quote
Billy P Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 David, I really like the Jesus seat. You do some really nice work. I hope my upholstry friend and I will get to doing some for the locals around here soon. I'm trying to get my stuff moved into my spare room in the house right now. I can't see keeping on paying extra on electric bill for my little shop when I can actually get more done in the house anyway. I thought the shop was a good idea at the time, but live and learn I guess. Anyway again very nice and when/if we get some stuff for around here I may be trying to pick your brain for help. We have a good number of people doing custom, one off, bike seats and I know I can use all the help, instruction I can get. I hope Beeza is having a good time at the Smoke-Out. It's about 90 miles from me, but I was not able to go this year. Hoping for next year though. kindest regards Billy P Quote Billy P SideLine Leather Co. Leatherworker.net/Forum
Guest Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 David, I really like the Jesus seat. You do some really nice work. I hope my upholstry friend and I will get to doing some for the locals around here soon. I'm trying to get my stuff moved into my spare room in the house right now. I can't see keeping on paying extra on electric bill for my little shop when I can actually get more done in the house anyway. I thought the shop was a good idea at the time, but live and learn I guess. Anyway again very nice and when/if we get some stuff for around here I may be trying to pick your brain for help. We have a good number of people doing custom, one off, bike seats and I know I can use all the help, instruction I can get. I hope Beeza is having a good time at the Smoke-Out. It's about 90 miles from me, but I was not able to go this year. Hoping for next year though. kindest regards Billy P Hey Billy, Good luck getting started in your seat/motorcycle gear business. There seem to be enough builders around to keep us all busy. I'll help any way I can just give a shout. Next year's Smokeout is being moved, I don't know where yet; but hopefully it will be close to you. Dave Quote
Guest Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) Today I finished the tooling on the seat front, and while that was drying, I started working on the seat back. The back tooling was rather simple so it dried quickly and I began adding the holes for the decorative lacing. I always feel like I am turning the seat skins into Swiss cheese at this point; but I do like the final appearance. I hoped to get the holes for the decorative lacing punched in the front also; but it is 11:30 and I think I am done for the day. Tomorrow I will add those holes to the front skin and enlarge all of the holes for the basketweave lacing. I will use 1/4" kangaroo for the basketweave on this one. Then I will begin putting everything on the seat pan. Dave Theobald Edited June 23, 2007 by David Quote
Ambassador freak Posted June 23, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted June 23, 2007 Awsome !! The decor lacing is one of the things i like about you seat Dave. It's as clean as you carving and tooling and it's made me want to learn to lace. On the back piece, on the main opening. The lace will not make a full circle, meaning there will be a start and an end. If at all possible can you show how you start that run and end it. Everthing i've read shows what to do as you meet where you started. I'm really lost of how to make proper looking starts and ends . Did that make any sense?? Quote It takes more then one freak to have a true freakshow. So take a seat , the show is about to start. Check out the freakSHOW
Guest Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) Awsome !! The decor lacing is one of the things i like about you seat Dave. It's as clean as you carving and tooling and it's made me want to learn to lace.On the back piece, on the main opening. The lace will not make a full circle, meaning there will be a start and an end. If at all possible can you show how you start that run and end it. Everthing i've read shows what to do as you meet where you started. I'm really lost of how to make proper looking starts and ends . Did that make any since ?? I think the reason the books show how to join up where you started is because that is the hardest thing to do....a straight run of lacing has a very simple beginning and end. You will note in these pictures that I am disclosing a terrible secret of mine..... I don't use a needle when I lace. (GASP!!!) I simply cut the lace to a point and away I go! One true "secret"... use short lengths of lace and splice where needed. I start the process by threading the lace down through the seat blank and holding the pointed end in place on the back of the leather. My first stitch then goes over the pointed end and holds it in place. On the top of the leather the first single loop is made and then back through to the back of the leather and each subsequent stitch ties down more of that pointed end. To end a straight run of lacing simply make your last single loop and then go back down through your next to last hole and thread the end of the lace under a couple of the last stitches on the back. You're done! Easy to write.... If you don't already have the Tandy booklet on lacing....called "How to Lace" (catchy title, eh?) it is cheap, maybe $5, and is number 6004-00 in their catalog. Thanks for looking at my post. I hope this helps Dave Theobald Edited June 23, 2007 by David Quote
Guest Posted June 24, 2007 Report Posted June 24, 2007 On the third day, I finished adding all the extra decorative lacing to the seat back; did my seat pan preparation, and added the seat back and padding to the seat pan. The pan preparation is more than you might expect. Since I use West Eagle seat pans, I have to remove and discard the two part rivets and manufacture's badge. The rivet cap in knocked off with a punch just a couple light taps is all you need, a screwdriver is then used to pry off the badge.... go slow here and cover the remaining rivet part with your hand; otherwise they can shoot off like bullets....very sharp bullets. Once that is done I use washers to back up the pop rivets that hold the seat back on the pan. These washers are actually super glued in place.... The glue is needed because the padding must go on next it will cover the washers. I use adhesive backed neoprene from Foam and More....it is a bit more expensive with the adhesive added but worth every cent. You just peal the backing paper off and stick down the padding. The adhesive is strong enough to conform to curved seat pans. This padding is then trimmed to shape using an electric knife.....we got it for a wedding gift 37 years ago and it is still going strong. And NO we don't use it in the kitchen any more. Finally I rivet the seat back in place. I purchased a small Campbell Hausfeld compressor at Walmart and mail ordered the rivet gun.....I think I got it cheapest from Amazon.com. This is very odd because Campbell Hausfeld is located in Cincinnati! These two things a compressor and air powered rivet gun are not absolutely necessary; but, if you are like me with arthritis in your hands and you plan on building 100 or more seats....it is well worth it. I hope this is all making sense, if you have questions, don't hesitate to ask. That's all for today, tomorrow I'll punch the holes for the decorative lacing on the seat front and lace and install the front on the assembled seat pan...... Til then, Dave Theobald Quote
Members bustedlifter Posted June 24, 2007 Members Report Posted June 24, 2007 Sometimes I think I'm not qualified to comment , but that is Outstanding work! Quote
Members leathernut Posted June 24, 2007 Members Report Posted June 24, 2007 On the third day, I finished adding all the extra decorative lacing to the seat back; did my seat pan preparation, and added the seat back and padding to the seat pan.The pan preparation is more than you might expect. Since I use West Eagle seat pans, I have to remove and discard the two part rivets and manufacture's badge. The rivet cap in knocked off with a punch just a couple light taps is all you need, a screwdriver is then used to pry off the badge.... go slow here and cover the remaining rivet part with your hand; otherwise they can shoot off like bullets....very sharp bullets. Once that is done I use washers to back up the pop rivets that hold the seat back on the pan. These washers are actually super glued in place.... The glue is needed because the padding must go on next it will cover the washers. I use adhesive backed neoprene from Foam and More....it is a bit more expensive with the adhesive added but worth every cent. You just peal the backing paper off and stick down the padding. The adhesive is strong enough to conform to curved seat pans. This padding is then trimmed to shape using an electric knife.....we got it for a wedding gift 37 years ago and it is still going strong. And NO we don't use it in the kitchen any more. Finally I rivet the seat back in place. I purchased a small Campbell Hausfeld compressor at Walmart and mail ordered the rivet gun.....I think I got it cheapest from Amazon.com. This is very odd because Campbell Hausfeld is located in Cincinnati! These two things a compressor and air powered rivet gun are not absolutely necessary; but, if you are like me with arthritis in your hands and you plan on building 100 or more seats....it is well worth it. I hope this is all making sense, if you have questions, don't hesitate to ask. That's all for today, tomorrow I'll punch the holes for the decorative lacing on the seat front and lace and install the front on the assembled seat pan...... Til then, Dave Theobald thats a cool write up on the seat dave.now by super glueing washers to the top of the pan when you push the rivet thru they dont pop up at all.i make the bottom part the same way by riveting the bottom without the washers but willing to try something diffrent.and the foam how much does the neoprene adhesive back stuff go for? thanks DAN Quote http://hellbentcustomseats.blogspot.com/
Guest Posted June 24, 2007 Report Posted June 24, 2007 (edited) thats a cool write up on the seat dave.now by super glueing washers to the top of the pan when you push the rivet thru they dont pop up at all.i make the bottom part the same way by riveting the bottom without the washers but willing to try something diffrent.and the foam how much does the neoprene adhesive back stuff go for?thanks DAN Hey Dan, Good questions, I use the washers because the holes in the pan are quite large and the rivets are much smaller in diameter....I could get a larger diameter rivet that is also a bit shorter but that would be a special order and it is WAY cheaper to buy what the hardware stores carry rather than special order simple things like rivets. I would have to order several thousand special sized rivets to make it pay....I only use 22 per seat....that is a lot of seats just to get a small price break on rivets. The washers hold well enough for me to get the rivets in place...once the rivets are locked down, the super glue doesn't matter any more. As you can see from my seat back pictures, the rivet holes are pre-punched and when I'm riveting to the pan the holes are perfectly lined up.....If you wet mold that isn't possible. The last time I did a cost break down, I was paying about $8-$10 per seat for the adhesive backed neoprene. They sell it in full sheets (about 18 seats) or half sheets. Foam and more's delivery service is great too. If I order on Monday morning, I have it by Wednesday at the latest. Once you use it, you will never go back to glueing down your padding. It isn't cheap, but it is the ONLY way to go..... For you guys who do other things than bike seats the adhesive/neoprene comes in thicknesses down to 1/8". The sticky stuff is way better than any glue or double stick tape....try it you'll like it! Edited June 24, 2007 by David Quote
Members valdez Posted June 25, 2007 Members Report Posted June 25, 2007 Hi david im from san diego if you don,t mind me asking u how much should someone charge for something like that how much does just the pan cost u david . awsome job man thats one heck of a seat man all the seat i see on this web are great one of kind,differe-nt styles . nice work man. Quote
Guest Posted June 25, 2007 Report Posted June 25, 2007 Hi david im from san diego if you don,t mind me asking u how much should someone charge for something like that how much does just the pan cost u david . awsome job man thats one heck of a seat man all the seat i see on this web are great one of kind,differe-nt styles . nice work man. Thanks for the compliment... the answer to your questions involve the working relationship that I have with my main client so let me respond this way. The seat pans will cost in the neighborhood of $50+ the seat when finished should retail for somewhere in the area of $625. I hope that is what you are looking for. Dave Quote
Guest Posted June 25, 2007 Report Posted June 25, 2007 (edited) Ok now the front of the seat has its decorative lacing in place it is time to attach it to the seat pan and then start the final basketweave lacing. When you begin to tie down the seat top; start in the middle of the seat at the front and back and tie down in both directions; it looks bad to start out, but as you continue, it will finally come together. Add a tie down on boths sides of the seat in front then both sides of the seat in the back.....I put a tie down in either every other hole or every third hole. Of course these are cut out as you get to them in your basketweave lacing. This evening I start the basketweave that holds the whole thing together. Dave Theobald Edited June 25, 2007 by David Quote
Roger Posted June 25, 2007 Report Posted June 25, 2007 i ordered 3/16" rivets to use on those pans. also got them in black. i'll send you some if you want to check them out david Quote
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