Stitches in t-slots

[Brianm77]

I know how I have been doing it, but I would like to hear how you guys pick the number of stitches and the spacing when hand stitching a wallet with T-slots

thanks,

Brian

[Tugadude]

It is always an issue.  Obviously you want to have a full stitch at the top of each pocket to help secure it and keep it laying flat.  Personally, I try to lay the stitching pattern out before punching.  So what I do is start at the bottom corners, where I know I will be putting a round hole to act as a "hinge" for the thread.  I then begin at the top T-slot.  I lay my diamond chisel on the stitching line and press down lightly, marking where the hole might be if I punched it.  I work my way down to the second T-slot and this is where I fudge a bit if necessary.  I continue down to the bottom, making sure to leave the last hole an appropriate distance away from the round corner hole.  I then move up to the top and continue "north" of the first impression and continue upwards to where I want to terminate the stitching line.  I do the other side, mimicking the first side  really, since it is a mirror image.  Finally, I fill in the bottom stitching line from corner-to-corner.  If it all looks copacetic, I go back and punch.

I don't think it takes any longer to do it this way and I'm assured to have the slots secured and the stitching consistent.  I may have to fudge a stitch or two, but nothing major.  Beats beginning to punch and going "Whoops" when you realize you just sliced into the top of a pocket and it will now be flapping in the wind.

On most wallets I try to stay with smaller stitch spacings.  I typically use a 2.5mm diamond chisel.  Been getting good results with this one.  Wish it was a little steeper angle, but with the right thread it works great.

 

[Webicons]

I've been looking at this tool: https://factorysanta.thebase.in/items/8366986

It is used to evenly space out your stitches as you approach the end of a stitch line but it can be used to plan out and mark your stitch line in a variety of spacing.  It can be a powerful tool when stitching wallet pockets.  

 

[Brianm77]

Well that is good stuff, I guess what I really mean is prong right in between the t-slot and the pocket below it(which seems to want to spread the two apart slightly). Or the line were the two meet right between 2 prongs wich makes the bottom of the t-slot and the top of the pocket have a very small distance between the hole and the edge (wich sometimes rips when pulling the thread tight)

Edited April 17, 2018 by Brianm77
Spelling

[charon]

I make the pattern so that the T matches the number of stitches. Also, I mostly have three parts stitches together and I always start at the transition of the middle to the top part hanging over the top stitch. That way I make sure I get a whole stitch to bind the parts together. When I use my pattern and the corresponding 2.5mm chisel, the transition from the middle part to the bottom part is also automatically one full binding stitch by design. The transition from the top piece to the divider is not always 100% but no one notices when this stitch is slightly larger than the others. So in essence design your t-slots to match your chisel and you‘re good to go

[Tugadude]

Charon, thanks for explaining that.  I don't use store bought templates and have configured mine to work with my chisels as you described.  

It didn't occur to me to point out the fact that you can adjust the height of the tab on the T-slot, but you did and I'm sure it will help the OP.

That is why it helps to have different folks chiming in!

[charon]

I guess that is what makes us register in a forum like this. I learn something new everyday and I always try to share what I do and why I do it. I didn't mean to correct you, I hope you didn't get that in the wrong neck. I'm relatively new to leatherwork, but I (mostly) don't use store bought patterns either. Sometimes I use print patterns but they can be adjusted easily.

By the way do the holes of the Craftool Pro Chisel really look like this? I use the Japanese Craft Sha Chisels and the holes are much wider than what I see in your picture. Might be worth to get a set of these when the holes are that much tighter.  

[Tugadude]

The Craftool Pro Chisel makes a slit, not a true diamond shape.  There is a little widening of the hole in the middle, but it resembles more of a slit than a chunky diamond.  I own both the 2.5mm and 3.5mm.  The 2.5mm works good on fine items such as watch straps while the 3.5mm is good for larger items where you don't want to or have to be so fine.  An 0.8mm thread is best for the 3.5mm chisel I think.

[Tugadude]

16 hours ago, Webicons said:

I've been looking at this tool: https://factorysanta.thebase.in/items/8366986

It is used to evenly space out your stitches as you approach the end of a stitch line but it can be used to plan out and mark your stitch line in a variety of spacing.  It can be a powerful tool when stitching wallet pockets.  

 

Thanks for sharing that.  Interesting concept.  I went to the link and the ad explains clearly the intent.  Good stuff.

[charon]

43 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Thanks for sharing that.  Interesting concept.  I went to the link and the ad explains clearly the intent.  Good stuff.

Totally made my day

49 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

The Craftool Pro Chisel makes a slit, not a true diamond shape.  There is a little widening of the hole in the middle, but it resembles more of a slit than a chunky diamond.  I own both the 2.5mm and 3.5mm.  The 2.5mm works good on fine items such as watch straps while the 3.5mm is good for larger items where you don't want to or have to be so fine.  An 0.8mm thread is best for the 3.5mm chisel I think.

I own the Craft Sha 1.5mm and 2mm versions and use the 1.5mm (8.5SPI) for wallets and watch straps and the 2mm version (6.5 SPI) for Bags, Notebook-covers and a-likes. But as you said these give a rather big, diamond shaped hole. So I think I'd give the 2.5mm Craftool Pro a shot. I just need to figure out where to get them with no Tandy in my country.

[Mattsbagger]

44 minutes ago, charon said:

Totally made my day

I own the Craft Sha 1.5mm and 2mm versions and use the 1.5mm (8.5SPI) for wallets and watch straps and the 2mm version (6.5 SPI) for Bags, Notebook-covers and a-likes. But as you said these give a rather big, diamond shaped hole. So I think I'd give the 2.5mm Craftool Pro a shot. I just need to figure out where to get them with no Tandy in my country.

Tandy does online orders.

[charon]

 

8 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

Tandy does online orders

I know they do but since shipping to my country is pricey I‘m not in their gold/elite club which means the price for 2.5mm in 10 prong and 2 prong are $120 excl. shipping. They have to be *really* good compared to the Craft Sha chisels to be worth that price.

[Brianm77]

You might look up this guy on Instagram, coming from China may be better than from the states.  He really makes some good quality stuff

[Brianm77]

So I believe I savvy, but just to make sure I come up with this real quick only free hand so don’t critique to hard on the craftsmanship lol.   First hole right next to the top of the t-slot and then a slightly larger stitch were the two pockets come together?  

 

I have played with patterns quite a bit.  Everything I have tried so far has had a hole we’re the two come together which seems to spread the pockets out slightly or a very tiny sliver at the bottom of the t-slot and the top of the other pocket wich results in the two ripping from the hole to the edge when pulling the thread tight. 

[charon]

I made some pictures to make it easier to follow. When I do cardholder wallets, my card section consists of 3 pieces, 2 being t-slots and one for the front, which is different. There are many ways to construct these but the principle stays the same. Here's one of these card-sections:

There's a hidden pocket behind the very top piece and 2 card slots, which take 3-4 cards each. The width of the T-tab matches exactly the width of the stitches of my chisel:

When I start punching the holes, I want to make sure, that the pockets get bound properly. So I start at the transition in the middle, to make sure it wraps nicely around the piece and doesn't cut it, because the stitch is too short:

Since the width of my tabs is essentially 5 whole stitches/6 holes, the transition from the middle tab to the top tab fits by design (see 2nd picture, there's one full stitch that hangs over to the top piece just like in this image). Since leather can be a little stretchy and since I skive the tabs down, there are chances that the stitch, which binds the top piece to the underlying piece, is slightly larger than a full stitch normally would be (this is the case on the wallet shown). However, in that position it blends nicely and doesn't jump into the eye in my opinion. So for me that's fine. Hope that helps.

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by charon

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, charon said:

I made some pictures to make it easier to follow. When I do cardholder wallets, my card section consists of 3 pieces, 2 being t-slots and one for the front, which is different. There are many ways to construct these but the principle stays the same. Here's one of these card-sections:

There's a hidden pocket behind the very top piece and 2 card slots, which take 3-4 cards each. The width of the T-tab matches exactly the width of the stitches of my chisel:

When I start punching the holes, I want to make sure, that the pockets get bound properly. So I start at the transition in the middle, to make sure it wraps nicely around the piece and doesn't cut it, because the stitch is too short:

Since the width of my tabs is essentially 5 whole stitches/6 holes, the transition from the middle tab to the top tab fits by design (see 2nd picture, there's one full stitch that hangs over to the top piece just like in this image). Since leather can be a little stretchy and since I skive the tabs down, there are chances that the stitch, which binds the top piece to the underlying piece, is slightly larger than a full stitch normally would be (this is the case on the wallet shown). However, in that position it blends nicely and doesn't jump into the eye in my opinion. So for me that's fine. Hope that helps.

 

A true craftsman and most excellent sharing of advise. Thanks for sharing.

[charon]

3 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

A true craftsman and most excellent sharing of advise. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for the kind words. I started myself not too long ago and in my opinion you should always share what you have. That's why we're all here... Also, when you look at that wonky stitching there's a lot to learn for me too 

[charon]

10 hours ago, Brianm77 said:

You might look up this guy on Instagram, coming from China may be better than from the states.  He really makes some good quality stuff

Thanks for the tip. I have a fable for small passionate crafters as he seems to be one. Wrote him a message at dhgates, let's see if he responds. Weird site behaviour, I don't even know whether the message has been sent  However these are not really cheaper but better made so I might give these a shot. Any experience with them? The only problem I have with that kind of shops is that you visit it for a specific item and then ... oh look at that nice handmade  awl ... and I end up with a $500 cart...

[billybopp]

6 minutes ago, charon said:

Thanks for the tip. I have a fable for small passionate crafters as he seems to be one. Wrote him a message at dhgates, let's see if he responds. Weird site behaviour, I don't even know whether the message has been sent  However these are not really cheaper but better made so I might give these a shot. Any experience with them? The only problem I have with that kind of shops is that you visit it for a specific item and then ... oh look at that nice handmade  awl ... and I end up with a $500 cart...

Welcome to the addiction.   

[Webicons]

27 minutes ago, charon said:

Wrote him a message at dhgates

Try sending him a PM directly through Instagram.  He responds pretty quickly through the platform (less the time difference).

[stormcrow]

13 minutes ago, Webicons said:

Try sending him a PM directly through Instagram.  He responds pretty quickly through the platform (less the time difference).

I've recently bought an Awl from him and the quality is very good came already very sharp. I put Instagram on my phone so I could message him from there it worked out cheaper doing it that way. problem is now I have found lots of people making some great tools on there and the temptation is massive to buy more. I've got to stop adding people who make tools

[Webicons]

2 hours ago, stormcrow said:

 problem is now I have found lots of people making some great tools on there and the temptation is massive to buy more. I've got to stop adding people who make tools

Lol! I have the same problem!  I’m attracted to shiny objects. 

Thing is, all that looking had inspired me to make my own tools now so I have a second addiction just below leather.  Lathe or sewing machine.....hmmm...

[Brianm77]

I have a set of the stitching irons. I use them like chisels in that, on thin stuff I punch them all the way through.  They are very good quality.  I also have a similar size saiwa brand I was trying something new.  You get more angle on each stitch but the thread fills up the hole better on the Japanese ones so I am undecided on which ones I like better. 

[charon]

If you ask me the diamond chisels are really good for beginners to intermediates and work perfectly for most items. But you need to move to prickkng irons (I believe the new terminus is French style) and an awl. Starting with that throws you back compared to these Chinese diamond chisels (at which point I currently an) and it takes a huge practice to get it really nice. But when you want to master it there‘s no way around. Currently I use the awl for thicker leather but the Seiwa/Craft Sha when I do wallets. The 1.5mm is perfectly fine for that though they look quite big on the pictures. I currently try the Wutas and hammer them through, which also gives a nice look but ultimately I‘ll switch to pricking iron and awl especially because I line to see this as an old craft and an art so I don‘t like the idea of getting a sewing machine either.

6 hours ago, Webicons said:

6 hours ago, charon said:

 

Try sending him a PM directly through Instagram.  He responds pretty quickly through the platform (less the time difference).

Done that, worked perfectly. Sent my enqiry there he‘s currently asleep I guess. 

6 hours ago, stormcrow said:

I've recently bought an Awl from him and the quality is very good came already very sharp. I put Instagram on my phone so I could message him from there it worked out cheaper doing it that way. problem is now I have found lots of people making some great tools on there and the temptation is massive to buy more. I've got to stop adding people who make tools

Can‘t believe I‘m writing this but do you mind to share the „lot of people making some great tools“? Turns out you can be a gearhead aside IT...

[stormcrow]

3 hours ago, charon said:

If you ask me the diamond chisels are really good for beginners to intermediates and work perfectly for most items. But you need to move to prickkng irons (I believe the new terminus is French style) and an awl. Starting with that throws you back compared to these Chinese diamond chisels (at which point I currently an) and it takes a huge practice to get it really nice. But when you want to master it there‘s no way around. Currently I use the awl for thicker leather but the Seiwa/Craft Sha when I do wallets. The 1.5mm is perfectly fine for that though they look quite big on the pictures. I currently try the Wutas and hammer them through, which also gives a nice look but ultimately I‘ll switch to pricking iron and awl especially because I line to see this as an old craft and an art so I don‘t like the idea of getting a sewing machine either.

Done that, worked perfectly. Sent my enqiry there he‘s currently asleep I guess. 

Can‘t believe I‘m writing this but do you mind to share the „lot of people making some great tools“? Turns out you can be a gearhead aside IT...

Good few of these are well known on the forum some maybe not so much. 

KS blade punch
Feng tools
Crimson hides
Yang tools
Chartermade
Nash anonymous
 Kevinlee4426
Wutaleather
 Hexnhit