Latest Revolver Holster

[Gus90]

Haven't had much time in the shop this summer but I did get a request for a holster for a GP 100 match revolver last week. 

Edited July 3, 2018 by Gus90

[garypl]

Nice job Gus!  What does the back look like?  Also, what type leather, thread and finish did you use?

 

Gary

[chrisash]

Wow that stithing is close to the edge or did you trim it

[Gus90]

5 hours ago, chrisash said:

Wow that stithing is close to the edge or did you trim it

The stitching isn't really that close to the edge it just looks like it because after I stitch I run down the edges with a #2 edger and it bevels it out nicely and gives a nice rounded edge to burnish.

5 hours ago, garypl said:

Nice job Gus!  What does the back look like?  Also, what type leather, thread and finish did you use?

 

Gary

The leather is 7-8 oz veg tan, the dye is a blend of feibings mahogany and light tan. I like to mix the darker dies with the light tan, I think it makes it a little easier to get the color even while doing multiple coats. The thread is just waxed nylon that I have had for forever.

Sorry I forgot to take pictures of the back  

[spwhite]

I just had a friend ask me to make a holster for a gp100 with a 3" barrel and I am having a heck of a time laying out a pattern. Btw that looks great

[Lobo]

Nice workmanship there.

[katsass]

Gus90:       First off --- My initial suggestion is, if you are going to make holsters --- beg, borrow or whatever and get Al Stohlman's book on how to make holsters. Every holster maker I know has their own copy and it's cheap ($14 - $15 or so) and, though dated,  holds a wealth of information in it. Mine was purchased in the late '50 I believe, and I still have it. If you want to take a look at actual old time gun rigs, go to the library and look up the book "Packing Iron", or try Barnes and Nobel and just thumb through a copy. . That will get you looking at styles and what has been done with holsters from the civil war 'till the 'golden age' of the T.V. westerns. After seeing it for the first time, I promptly bought a copy and use it often when making western rigs. Now, please don't take any comment of mine as a put-down, We all start somewhere and only get better as time and experience accumulate. I'm just commenting on things that I believe will make you a better holster maker. First thing that pops me right in the eye is the flat, straight top end on your rig. As a general rule, long areas of straight edges around rounded parts are something to be avoided. Long straight edges of leather along an of area rounded steel just aren't esthetically pleasing, they just don't look good. Looks like something just doesn't "fit". On your next one I'd try to round over around the cylinder and then down and curve outward toward the trigger guard -- sort of a big "S" curve on it's side. Proper curves, when possible be sexy!  Another thing I see is the use of rivets. To me, (and to LOTTS of folks) the use of rivets makes your work look , well, flat out , cheap. With good stitching you just don't need any excess reinforcement at that location. A single line of stitching or lacing is plenty, unless it is being done as decoration. Also, your stitching has come a bit too damned close to the edge. Leave a bit of space, say --- 1/8" or so between the edge and your stiches, and the appearance will be more pleasing. Look at commercial holsters, and the multitude of rigs made by the fine craftsmen on this forum. You just don't see the damned rivets, nor stitching so close to the edge. (I'm not one much for mechanical stuff on my holsters anyhow, and don't even like to use snaps, but rivets are almost an absolute no no) Now, you have  molded that puppy -- really molded it. Many folks like the appearance of a deeply molded holster. HOWEVER -- think about it. With the apparent depth of the molding in around the trigger guard, every time you draw the weapon, and every time you replace the weapon in the holster, you are deforming that bit of work. If you are using that bit of work as weapon retention, you should use more wet forming.  The area around the trigger guard will be gone in short order and start to look poorly done. You might want to back off a bit on that type of molding and concentrate on tight stitching and wet forming rather than molding My final comment on your work is about your finish. It's there -- really there. It seems to look like ?plastic?   To me,  (and it may just be me) but I want my leather to look like -- leather!  You might want to back off a bit in that area and allow the grain of that piece of dead cow skin show itself.

As I said earlier, I'm not trying to put you down, and you most likely have never seen any of my work so you may believe that I'm just blowing smoke, but I'm hoping to see some fine stuff from someone truly interested -- so  I open my mouth (or keyboard) and try to give a hand.  We all started at one point, and initially our stuff wouldn't be fit for public consumption. You are farther ahead than many just keep at it and observe and ask questions.   Mike  

Edited September 15, 2018 by katsass
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