Juki dcs 246 hook timing

[R8R]

There should be 2 marks on the needle bar. Set the bar to the top mark on the needle bar bushing when it's at the very bottom of it's stroke. Rotate the handwheel so the bar comes up 2.4mm from bottom. This should put the bar at the bottom mark. Loosen the hook and adjust so the very tip of the hook blade is passing center of the needle (looking from the end of the arm, hook rotating CCW) and the hook tip is 1.5mm above the top of the needle eye.

At least, that would be what the manual is stating, and assuming all your parts are original and genuine Juki.

[Zesan]

Yes it is

[Zesan]

Thanks  R8R ill give it a try now at first I couldn’t find the marks I should be good.

 

[Uwe]

You have my sympathies trying to follow those instruction in the manual. Juki generally writes good manuals but this isn't one of them. It reads as if they're deliberately trying to confuse you even if you know what you're doing.

[R8R]

Check out Uwe's timing video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNBPX8i524

It is for a vertical hook design but much of the procedure and sequence applies to timing many machines.

 

And his vids are relaxing, which is good when you want to flip the damn table stand over when the machine is being finicky.

[R8R]

25 minutes ago, Uwe said:

Juki generally writes good manuals but this isn't one of them. It reads as if they're deliberately trying to confuse you even if you know what you're doing.

Yeah all the correct things are there but it's a total syntax error in my brain when I first read it.

I have a Techsew 2600 on order that should be here any time now. I hope their manual is better and not a Juki copy...

[HardenGoods]

3 minutes ago, R8R said:

I have a Techsew 2600 on order that should be here any time now. I hope their manual is better and not a Juki copy...

I had the 2600. The manual (at least the one I received) was indeed a copy of the Juki 246 manual.

[R8R]

31 minutes ago, HardenGoods said:

I had the 2600. The manual (at least the one I received) was indeed a copy of the Juki 246 manual.

Had? How did you like the machine? Can I ask why you don't have it anymore?

[HardenGoods]

17 minutes ago, R8R said:

Had? How did you like the machine? Can I ask why you don't have it anymore?

I'm going to start by saying there is a very good chance you won't have the issues I did. I really don't want to lessen your excitement and expectations of the 2600 by any means. Ron and Mike were both very professional and helpful in regards to my situation.

I had some small qualms with the roughness of the castings and paint job from the get go but it didn't bother me much because the machine was adjusted and timed to sew very well right off of the crate. My trouble came when I noticed my machine making strange grinding noises and would vibrate excessively. As soon as I noticed metal shavings/dust under the machine head (where the oil tray goes), I suspected deeper issues. Normally at this point I would dive in and make a thousand adjustments to get everything just right but the machine was brand new and I didn't feel satisfied for the price I paid... However, I did try changing out the belt, tried changing the motor (to two different servos I had) and double checked all settings via the engineers manual but couldn't narrow down why the machine made grinding noises. Basically, it sounded and felt very off.

I'm hoping your experience is a great one. Also, if you love the machine, I have a flatbed attachment for sale that I picked up from Uwe, and customized it to fit the 2600 perfectly.

 

[R8R]

Thanks for the input.

 

Yikes....that sound was NOT good. Yeah there are some bad apples in every batch, especially with clones I suppose. Good to hear you got it resolved one way or another.

 

This will primarily be for binding operations with light leather and woven nylons. I could not justify dropping $5k on a new Juki 246, as it's a pretty dated design. I definitely don't need the 2342 yet.

I considered going for a used 1341 and trying to track down their binding converter kit but it's back ordered, possibly forever as the 1341 is officially discontinued in the US. (per my local dealer)

So the 2600 seemed like the best choice, as it has a bit of a heavier edge over a 355 or similar machine. I really want the synched binding for tighter corners.

I think I saw that flat bed on eBay. I have the flatbed end of things covered with a 2810, but I will think about it.