Juki dcs 246 hook timing

[HardenGoods]

1 minute ago, R8R said:

This will primarily be for binding operations with light leather and woven nylons. I could not justify dropping $5k on a new Juki 246, as it's a pretty dated design. I definitely don't need the 2342 yet.

I considered going for a used 1341 and trying to track down their binding converter kit but it's back ordered, possibly forever as the 1341 is officially discontinued in the US. (per my local dealer)

So the 2600 seemed like the best choice, as it has a bit of a heavier edge over a 355 or similar machine. I really want the synched binding for tighter corners.

I think I saw that flat bed on eBay. I have the flatbed end of things covered with a 2810, but I will think about it.

It's a fantastic binding machine for sure - much versatility via attachments. It surprises me that the 1341 is out! The 341 definitely looks its age at this point lol.

A dedicated flatbed machine is of course, even better. How do you like the 2810? That machine looks so damn beautiful.

[R8R]

45 minutes ago, HardenGoods said:

How do you like the 2810? 

I think I want to be buried with it.

[HardenGoods]

12 hours ago, R8R said:

I think I want to be buried with it.

Haha.. good sign. 

[Zesan]

I got a good deal on my juki I am a rookie on a machine. It did need a motor, and a good cleaning. I got that and I had a couple good passes on two layers of 5 oz. Leather. Then things went crazy. I'm now having the thread being caught by the bobbin case.  I think I got the timing close but after watching Uwe's video(THANKs for doing that)  I'll break out some tools and try it again. It is not as easy to see things on my model. One other issue I'm having is the tension seems to not be consistent occasionally it will just lock it up. (I know this could be most of my problem.)

[R8R]

Run down a list of all the basics and make sure you have that covered. Sometimes it's one stupid thing that throws off everything else.

• New needle (correct needle class!)
• Good quality thread
• Clean machine (no thread hung up anywhere in or under the hook, etc)
• Well oiled machine - oil everything, then oil it again. Don't use any old junk oil, use clean, clear sewing machine oil, generously. Wipe off excess.
• Correct needle bar height
• Hook timing
• Smooth, clean, well oiled hook with no scrapes, rough spots or burrs.
• Correct hook/needle gap
• Correct feed dog height - also check the feed dogs for nicks or scrapes or burrs that can hang up thread.
• Foot pressure
• Evenly wound bobbin, not wound up at overly high tension
• Top tension - make sure the inside surfaces of the tension discs are smooth with no grooves or roughness. The thread path from spool to needle eye should be smooth.
• Bobbin case tension

 

[Zesan]

Thanks for the tips, I do have a new hook assembly on it's way. The old one is pretty scratched up and worn. I was doing most everything else. I will have to check the feed dogs and foot pressure.The tension disc looked good and smooth. I may have to play with the threading tension on the bobbin as the tension knob for it is frozen. I got a new bobbin case.

 

[HardenGoods]

2 minutes ago, Zesan said:

Thanks for the tips, I do have a new hook assembly on it's way. The old one is pretty scratched up and worn. I was doing most everything else. I will have to check the feed dogs and foot pressure.The tension disc looked good and smooth. I may have to play with the threading tension on the bobbin as the tension knob for it is frozen. I got a new bobbin case.

 

Sounds like you are on the right path. After checking the above mentioned things, I always find it helpful to go through every single adjustment in the service manual separately and sew (without power, just by hand) right after each adjustment.  A parts list layout may help you understand your machine better too because some of the parts are hard to see and reach (maybe someone provided this already, I haven’t read all of the previous posts). 

[R8R]

Received the 2600 today. It's... noisy.