JustWakinUp Report post Posted August 6, 2007 (edited) i cut the insert to shape, then cut the seat foam. i use 1/4" over top. cost of the inserts depends on the size.price depends on the size. if i remember right, they start at $50-$60 plus $10 shipping. i include padding in the price. i use http://www.brooklynbuttbuffer.com/ for the inserts. you will need to contact them and let them know you only need the insert. let them know roger from mutha country choppers sent you thier way I'm a complete newbie here and want to say thank you for the excellent presentation of this tutorial. On a second note, paying $50 - $60 per insert is a very high price to pay when you can purchase from the manufacturer of the gel who buttbuffer used for half that price and make 2 inserts out of the size they will send you. They no longer cut the shape for you which allows you more freedom to design a comfortable seat. ( use a pair of shears and silicone spray to cut it your shape) They also have the final layer that we usually put on the seat and it is a frothed gel which is absolutely amazing. (your ass will thank you for using this) You can do all that for way less beezachoppa. I do not work for this company, I'm a biker/new tooler that wanted more comfort out of his seat and found the solution in Kemmler Products. You can visit them www.kemmlerproducts.com These are the guys that sold to buttbuffer and got them their reputation, I can't speak highly enough of Tom over at kemmler. He's been helping me make peoples motorcycle seats comfortable for a while now. Your customers will want to kiss you ! Couple of question though.. Which beveler did you use to stamp with, those bevels are extremely clean, and so far mine have come out way too fat ! What weight are you using for the top of the seat? 6-7oz Why is the side pieces of leather white? Edited August 6, 2007 by JustWakinUp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted August 6, 2007 I'm a complete newbie here and want to say thank you for the excellent presentation of this tutorial. On a second note, paying $50 - $60 per insert is a very high price to pay when you can purchase from the manufacturer of the gel who buttbuffer used for half that price and make 2 inserts out of the size they will send you. They no longer cut the shape for you which allows you more freedom to design a comfortable seat. ( use a pair of shears and silicone spray to cut it your shape) They also have the final layer that we usually put on the seat and it is a frothed gel which is absolutely amazing. (your ass will thank you for using this) You can do all that for way less beezachoppa. I do not work for this company, I'm a biker/new tooler that wanted more comfort out of his seat and found the solution in Kemmler Products. You can visit them www.kemmlerproducts.com These are the guys that sold to buttbuffer and got them their reputation, I can't speak highly enough of Tom over at kemmler. He's been helping me make peoples motorcycle seats comfortable for a while now. Your customers will want to kiss you ! Couple of question though.. Which beveler did you use to stamp with, those bevels are extremely clean, and so far mine have come out way too fat ! What weight are you using for the top of the seat? 6-7oz Why is the side pieces of leather white? www.kemmlerproducts.com has been mentioned before. i have not tried them yet. i get a better price than that from bbb as i have purchassed quite a few insertsa from them. looking at the prices kemmler wants for a cycle insert, i am paying about tha already or maybe a little less. i only use the solid inserts and the ones from bbb are 1/2" thick not 3/8" from kemmler. i have been going to order some samples just have not taken the time. i use barry king bevelers and 5-6oz leather for the top. i use a different leather for the side. that is the reason for the color difference Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gray Report post Posted September 30, 2007 Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do your seats, Roger...a pic is worth a thousand words. Your tutorial answered several questions for me, and I believe I'll be trying my first seat in the next coupla weeks using your technique. Great job! --Phil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted October 1, 2007 Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do your seats, Roger...a pic is worth a thousand words. Your tutorial answered several questions for me, and I believe I'll be trying my first seat in the next coupla weeks using your technique. Great job!--Phil thanks phil! let me know if can answer any other questions for you. i am all about pictures i learn a lot more from pictures than anything else Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveb Report post Posted October 2, 2007 great how-to, i produced a similar story for American Iron Magazine about a year and a half ago with Duane Ballard...it was fun to do and readers really dug it - very few people outside our craft have any clue - they see it kinda like magic... I've saved a bikernet tutorial from Paul Cox, Duane's and now yours - cool to compare an contrast techniques from those who really know bike seats... the one different twist to the way you actually assemble a seat is really smart to my eye - you stitch the seat top to the skirt flat and your skirt doesnt have a seam - you work off a flat piece of leather, not a seamed skirt at all... - you pull it tight as hell and really tuck and dart the nose - cool and nice job on the seat overall, that sure is one crazy drop seat frame, i wondered why the pan was so wack, kinda of a shame to drown nice carved detail in black - but ya gotta do what is necessary niice steveb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted October 2, 2007 great how-to, i produced a similar story for American Iron Magazine about a year and a half ago with Duane Ballard...it was fun to do and readers really dug it - very few people outside our craft have any clue - they see it kinda like magic...I've saved a bikernet tutorial from Paul Cox, Duane's and now yours - cool to compare an contrast techniques from those who really know bike seats... the one different twist to the way you actually assemble a seat is really smart to my eye - you stitch the seat top to the skirt flat and your skirt doesnt have a seam - you work off a flat piece of leather, not a seamed skirt at all... - you pull it tight as hell and really tuck and dart the nose - cool and nice job on the seat overall, that sure is one crazy drop seat frame, i wondered why the pan was so wack, kinda of a shame to drown nice carved detail in black - but ya gotta do what is necessary niice steveb thanks steve! i didn't get to read the article but, had heard about it. duane and i seem to admire each others work and trade compliments from time to time. i finally got to meet him and spend some time chatting bikes at the smokeout this year. yes, i like a clean seat without seams and i pride myself on a good tight cover and flat bottom. it does get to be quite a workout! yea black suckes and most times i can talk the customer out of it but... sometimes you just gotta do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted October 10, 2007 Roger is not only talented on motorcycle seats but did an excellent job for me on one of my cue cases. He was in constant contact during the process and it could not have gone smoother. I look forward to working with Roger on future projects. Great job, Roger, my customer is 100% satisfied!Jack Justis Justis Cases Very nice job on the cue case, and also on the seat, of course . Did roger "just" the tooling, or also the coloring on this case ? What kind of colors where there used ?? Regards, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted October 10, 2007 Very nice job on the cue case, and also on the seat, of course . Did roger "just" the tooling, or also the coloring on this case ? What kind of colors where there used ?? Regards, Marcel Thanks Marcel! Jack sent me the pre cut pieces and i did the design and tooling only....Jack did the rest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
41hammer Report post Posted March 6, 2009 now comes the hard part. i was sore for most of the day today after wrestling with this seat last night.i make sure to keep the side good and wet during the whole process and find a good starting place and go to it. i don't pre-drill the holes in the pan as i like to put the where i think they are needed as i mount the cover. i then go back and tackle the hard spots and take care of any puckers. this is what i end up with. any looseness left in the cover will tighten up as the leather dries out. that is pretty much my process. i think it took me a good 1 1/2 to 2 hours to mount this cover last night. any other questions please ask hello and thanks for the step by step. I have been searching for someone to explain the stitch you did on the seat. i would love to know the proper way and what point to start, stitch and finish it so it stays strong over time and so you can't tell where it is finished. also how far apart do you do the holes and any helpful tips on the stitch. thank you tiffany Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
relic rider Report post Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks ROGER i just started a new thread asking a lot of questions regarding getting the skirt or sides of my seat tight then i saw this tutorial and you have answered most of them thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted March 20, 2017 WOW! have not been on here in quite some time. i can't believe it's been 10 year since i did this! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
