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Posted (edited)

It is not a 100%, . . . absolute, . . . "dyed in the wool", . . . cure:  but it comes awful close.

I ran into this problem some time back, . . . and found "my" solution.

1.  24 hours drying time from the very last stroke or stamp on a cased piece of leather.  No heat, . . .  just room temperature (70 or so F).

2.  Apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil, . . . and let dry another 24 hours.

3.  Dip dye everything, . . . I use Feibings oil dyes and spirit dyes, . . . all are cut 1 to 1 with thinner.

I no longer have hardly any of that splotchy and streaky looking dye jobs.  They are basically uniform, with the exception of the grain of the leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted
1 hour ago, Dwight said:

It is not a 100%, . . . absolute, . . . "dyed in the wool", . . . cure:  but it comes awful close.

I ran into this problem some time back, . . . and found "my" solution.

1.  24 hours drying time from the very last stroke or stamp on a cased piece of leather.  No heat, . . .  just room temperature (70 or so F).

2.  Apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil, . . . and let dry another 24 hours.

3.  Dip dye everything, . . . I use Feibings oil dyes and spirit dyes, . . . all are cut 1 to 1 with thinner.

I no longer have hardly any of that splotchy and streaky looking dye jobs.  They are basically uniform, with the exception of the grain of the leather.

May God bless,

Dwight

 Cool, thanks. I’ll try this with my next piece. What do you cut your oil dye with? Hope it isn’t something you can only get on the States!

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Posted
3 hours ago, CutThumb said:

 Cool, thanks. I’ll try this with my next piece. What do you cut your oil dye with? Hope it isn’t something you can only get on the States!

I use Feibings dye reducer and thinner.  Some folks on here apparently use everything from water to diesel fuel, . . .

After messing around with some of their suggestions, . . . I went back to this formula, . . . works great.

When I buy a bottle of dye (4 oz), I buy a bottle of thinner for it.  Open one, . . . open the other, . . . pour em into my bottle for that dye, . . . shake well, . . . good to go.

Yeah, . . . they probably save some money, . . . but with this formula I don't have to guess, . . . wonder, . . . worry, . . . or hope, . . . "how will it turn out???".  AND, . . . I don't throw out as many  junk pieces because the dye was the wrong color, . . . wrong shade, . . . splotchy, . . . etc.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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