Thread size?

[Mbustin]

I am new here and to leather crafting. I’ve been designing and making wallets and other leather items. I have bought thread at Tandy and hobby lobby, but have never gave thought as to the thread size I’m using. I just get what’s available and what I think looks good. I watch videos where people use a smaller thread size for smaller stitch holes with less distance between and a larger thread size for projects with bigger stitching holes that are spaced farther apart. None of these videos I watch actually give both the actual size of the thread and where the best place to purchase? So, my question is. What are the two most commonly used thread sizes for leather crafts such as wallets, belts, small bags?  Where to purchase and is there a particular brand that’s the best? I’m reading nylon bonded or linen thread that needs to be waxed.  Thanks.

[Mattsbagger]

Basically it comes down to what look YOU want. I use .8mm Tiger on wallets and stuff at about 8  spi. On bigger stuff like sheaths I use 1mm. At about 6 spi. That being said I also use the 1mm at 6 on wallets if I want a different look. There is a post with thread size vs spi with pictures somewhere on here. Lol

[JazzBass]

I've only been "serious" about leather crafting for a bit over a year now, and started (quite understandably) with Tandy threads, (and tools) as they were readily available. I ran into every problem, about which you ask a question...but have gained at least a few meager insights as a result.

There is indeed a subjective relationship, aesthetically, to stitch length, thread size, and hole size. In the extremes, some things are perfectly serviceable, but don't "look good", where some things may "look good", and fail when subjected to easily anticipated stresses or loads.

(ok...back to us amateurs)

My problem with Tandy thread was the lack of a standard,  easily understandable measurement in their labeling. Often, what was chosen by looking at the spool, turned out to be too thick or too thin, for what I wanted to do. Enter, "Tiger Thread" (Ritza 25, Julius Koch, Germany). After seeing many folks who are serious pros talk about how good it is, I ordered some in a few sizes. Eureka. Being measured in millimeters, it provided the best standard upon which the "aesthetic" could be adjusted reliably.

The next thing I did, after having been hit over the head many times, was to switch from what some call "big eye" Tandy needles, to John James 002 and 004. With the Tandy needles, I'd sometimes need either pliers on every stitch, or have to make holes big enough to show daylight through them after being stitched. Again, something as simple as better needles made it easier to adjust the thread and hole sizes to achieve the desired result.

Next, after having watch many of (master) Nigel Armitage's videos, another thing jumped out - his awl is razor sharp at the tip, but is "softened" as it reaches full thickness. Brilliant! This means that we can create a small "cut" hole, that is simply "stretched" temporarily, to make sewing more convenient. Wow.

I won't bother to recommend thread /hole sizes vs. stitch length - the above is just what this "newbie" has found that might help you to make those choices yourself

[Mbustin]

Thanks this helps.