Members fivewayswelshcobs Posted March 5, 2019 Members Report Posted March 5, 2019 The picture of the saddle hanging up gave me best laugh I've had for weeks. It shows what can be done when challenged. Personally I have done many by hand without dropping the panel and a number where you have to take the flap off as there is no access but have never tried saddle suspension! Quote
Members Britmastersaddler Posted March 5, 2019 Members Report Posted March 5, 2019 When I install new knee pads to saddles I use half inch latex Quote
Members Silverd Posted March 6, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2019 Hitting the previous needle holes when making repairs: 100% is the goal. For repair work I'm currently use a Claes 30 patcher and a 441 (Clone) both with speed reducers and Bob Kovar motors and controllers or I hand stitch. I tossed out the motor and controller that came with the 441 (Clone from TECHSEW as the system did not function correctly and was largely unsupported by their customer service folks). Do I sound like a difficult customer?...I likely am because I know what is possible when it comes to motor control systems being that I have worked in the CNC machine tool industry for 20+ years. That said I'm new to the leather community and to the Equestrian world. The reason I mention this is because hitting the old holes requires a tremendous amount of machine control, good lighting and for me vision aids as you likely know. If one cannot machine sew and hit all of the existing needle holes then hand stitch the work. in my opinion. 1/2" Latex: I bought 3/4" Plastazote Foam 45KG / cubic Meter density but I can see where 1/2" may serve as well. I think as long as the foam density is correct the type of foam may not be completely important aside from it being of a closed cell type so it does not absorb water. The Stubben customer belongs to a local ranch that I desire to have good word of mouth reporting of my services so I went with Abbey England's recommendation. Is the Latex foam you use an economical alternative to the Plastazote? Lastly: Turning Work Away: Indeed. I agree completely with this notion. One must work within our skill set / equipment & knowledge abilities as opposed to our financial plans. Silverd Quote
Members Silverd Posted March 6, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2019 I align the needle holes using small brads that are removed as the machine stitching commences. I also grind the point off the needle I'm using so it is more likely to find the existing hole instead of making a fresh one. Lastly I wear prescription spectacles designed for me to view the action at 10 inches distance. Every stitch is carefully placed and depending on the spacing may require lifting the presser foot and adjusting the work location under the needle. Key is being able to control the machine speed down to a creep when needed. Silverd Quote
Members Silverd Posted March 7, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2019 On 3/5/2019 at 12:30 PM, fivewayswelshcobs said: The picture of the saddle hanging up gave me best laugh I've had for weeks. It shows what can be done when challenged. Personally I have done many by hand without dropping the panel and a number where you have to take the flap off as there is no access but have never tried saddle suspension! May I ask what you typically charge for this work? Silverd Quote
Members Silverd Posted March 14, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 14, 2019 On 2/24/2019 at 6:28 PM, valafar said: You would use an open cell foam with a medium density you can get something close at ir specialty number ul 35 the foam has to be supportive but also be able to displace the air a lot of saddles will have vent holes under to allow the foam to sink as the knee is applied . You have to be careful working on older saddles it can be a can of worms and it probably doesn't fit the horse properly anyway. I can give you some help if you like my info is on my website Greg Allan Saddlery Or my facebook GB I paid a visit to the HITS horse show in Thermal CA this past weekend. Spend the better part of 2hours talking with the show saddler and tack maker Brad who travels with the HITS and other major shows around the country 45 weeks a year in a self contained trailer that includes his leather shop. He repairs tack and saddles for the show contestants and was reasonably busy from what I could tell. He had just finished replacing a seat in one saddle which to my eyes looked as good as new. He also makes and sells a complete line of English tack. Most impressive was his shop which contained only minimal tools and equipment as well as limited space. My shop is much better equipped for what good that does for me! Brad has been working in the English horse world for 35years and scoffed at my idea of making knee roll and billet repairs by only partially dismantling the saddle. His method is to disassemble the saddles completely thereby allowing the rolls to be worked on the bench including machine sewing the pockets closed and to gain complete access to the Billets. He also suggested that he will typically find other issues with the saddle that he can address. I came back from the visit having a better understanding of the business and the challenge someone like me will face making new equipment for sale. Without a very through understanding of horsemanship and or traditional tack making methods, I don't really stand a chance. Saddle fitting included. Brad indicated that the saddle reassembly process goes quickly once understood. I visited your site and was very impressed by the images of your work. Very nice products and very professional presentation. My work pales in comparison. Silverd Quote
Members Nicholette Posted October 5, 2020 Members Report Posted October 5, 2020 On 2/24/2019 at 4:42 PM, Silverd said: Original knee roll freashly opened....that's how old! Anybody want to take a stab at what kind of padding I should consider using for the repair? Sikverd How do u Sew it back together because I’m scared to cut mine open and sew it back together Quote
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