Sofa Re-Dye

[gkulpins]

Hey All,

Newbee here.

I am planning on re-dying a Flexsteel leather couch.  I have read that it is possible, it is not recommended, it is recommended, its worth it, and it's not worth it.  A replacement couch would be ~$1500, so I figured I would give it a try before investing that.  My plan is to use Fiebing supplies (deglazer, dye, and resolene).  I intend to re-suff the seats prior to the re-dye.  A few questions:

1.       I will be dying a full size sofa (quite a bit more than a chair).  How much of each product (deglazer, dye, and resolene) should I have on hand?

2.       When prepping the surface with the deglazer, should a cotton rag be used, or a more aggressive applicator like a scotchbright pad?

3.       Would you recommend the use of Fiebing's “Leather Dye” or the “Pro Dye” for a furniture application?

4.       Is there a recommended temperature range for the use of your products (4 degrees here today)?

5.       Do you recommend “casing” the leather after deglazing and prior to the dying process?

6.       Would you recommend diluting the dye with denatured alcohol to allow for several applications to ensure a more even coverage without darkening too much? (my concern is after the applications of three coats of dye, the sofa may get too dark)

I appreciate any and all comments.  I have attached a photo to show where I am starting.

Thanks a bunch,

Greg

[fredk]

5 minutes ago, gkulpins said:

1.       I will be dying a full size sofa (quite a bit more than a chair).  How much of each product (deglazer, dye, and resolene) should I have on hand?

2.       When prepping the surface with the deglazer, should a cotton rag be used, or a more aggressive applicator like a scotchbright pad?

3.       Would you recommend the use of Fiebing's “Leather Dye” or the “Pro Dye” for a furniture application?

4.       Is there a recommended temperature range for the use of your products (4 degrees here today)?

5.       Do you recommend “casing” the leather after deglazing and prior to the dying process?

6.       Would you recommend diluting the dye with denatured alcohol to allow for several applications to ensure a more even coverage without darkening too much? (my concern is after the applications of three coats of dye, the sofa may get too dark)

 

1. Hard to say. It'll depend on absorption. I'd recommend have no less than 4 x 32oz bottles each of dye and resolene to hand. 1 x 32oz of deglazer should do 

2. Cloth rag only. Scotchbright will scratch the surface

3. I prefer Fiebings standard leather dye, others will recommend the Pro dye

4. Minimum of 18*,  20* better

5. You'll not be 'casing' the leather, but having it moderately damp will help with the spread of the dye thru the leather

6. Yes, dilute the dye. You can apply the dye with a sponge or better yet get a cheap airbrush and compressor and spray the dye on. You'll have better control over the colour density

[gkulpins]

Can I assume I will mist the surface with water and wipe it so no water remains on the surface prior to the first coat of dye application?

Suggested sprayer?  I was considering the Powermate Vx Gravity Feed Spray Gun.  Does the tip diameter matter much for dye and resolene application?

Do you think a 50/50 dilution for the dye would be acceptable?

Do you dilute the resolene prior to spraying (I assume a water dilution as it is acrylic based)?  Would two coats of resolene suffice?

Thanks,

Greg

[fredk]

40 minutes ago, gkulpins said:

Can I assume I will mist the surface with water and wipe it so no water remains on the surface prior to the first coat of dye application?

Suggested sprayer?  I was considering the Powermate Vx Gravity Feed Spray Gun.  Does the tip diameter matter much for dye and resolene application?

Do you think a 50/50 dilution for the dye would be acceptable?

Do you dilute the resolene prior to spraying (I assume a water dilution as it is acrylic based)?  Would two coats of resolene suffice?

1. If you've done your prep right any water should soak into the leather. If it remains as drops on the surface then the leather still has lacquer on it which needs removed as the dye will not get past the lacquer

2. The bigger the better, maybe even a small small spray-gun. A small air-brush will only cover about 2 square inches at a time, you need and will want to work faster. You can get non-compressor spray-guns. You'll need something that can take 500ml [1 UK pint] at a time. With a spray-gun you don't need to worry about the tip, you just want a fan spread. Most good spray-guns have a rotatable head so you get the fan vertical, horizontal or at any angle. Check out car spray painting equipment as well as equipment for spraying outside woodwork.

3. At least 50:50, depends on spray equipment. With a small airbrush I sometimes go to 1 dye to 3 water/alcohol mix

4. Resolene can be diluted with water or alcohol. I use a mix of both. 2 coats might do but I reckon you'd be needing 5 coats, to give long lasting protection and a bit of a shine. More coats = more shine.