Paper Thin Veggie-tanned leather, historic treatments

[Dbeeksci]

15 hours ago, hwinbermuda said:

Don't you dare shut up, your input on the forum is always on my 'must read' list.

@Dbeeksci

 please could you post pix of the domed cases, as they may be shaped by cutting, rather than raising. I have seen both methods.

H

Following are images of small 19th c leather covered boxes with domed tops (all cased dental instruments). These are very slight domes, (not like that larger hump-back boxes). They all appear to be stretched single-piece leather tops that are gold embossed (or debossed). 

[bermudahwin]

4 minutes ago, Dbeeksci said:

They all appear to be stretched single-piece leather tops that are gold embossed (or debossed). 

I would agree with that, it would be cut exactly to size and bevel skived to the edge of the lid.

The sides would be layed on prior to that, also well skived, with the top area sanded lightly to allow glue adhesion.

I would expect there to be a mold, to exactly match the lid, so that the piece could dry under weight.

In view of this I don't think the leather was stiffened. There may have been a paper filler over the lid when the sides are covered, to bring the lid to a smooth finish when the lid is coverered.

I would expect the gold would be hot stamped prior to fitting the lid leather in a box from about 1910 through to modern machines with domed stamping plates. If they're factory made, that is; if bench made, could well be hand blocked.

 

[Dbeeksci]

These cases date from early 19th c ca 1820.  Yes, I agree they were gold leaf stamped prior to glueing onto the lid. I'm learning how to skiv and having a hard time with such pliable thin leather that stretches so easily. I'll keep trying!

[bermudahwin]

You could try making your own miniature paring knife, like a lifting knife in bookbinding, and practise on paper edges, but flat bevelled to a razor edge.

As a quick reference to the knife look here http://www.hewitonline.com/Lifting_Knife_p/tl-071.htm

I made my own from a hacksaw blade approx 1 cm wide, grinding down to shape and working on a stone, stropping etc. ( I also make my own clicking blades like this, and have one that I have used since 1986 much cheaper than buying them).

Holding the paper, keep trying to just take the edge down to nothing, whilst retaining its shape, so you ar aiming to be able to run your finger from full thickness, to marble stone and almost not feel the transition.

Once you have become comfortable with that, you could try it on scrap thin leather.

On dry leather, the need is to have an ultra sharp blade, I find it easy to keep the edge on the lifting knife, by stropping.

Very old dry leather WILL crumble, you may need to match and patch, but if you have fed the leather first it should work.

Gently, gently, and slowly will do it.

H

 

[YinTx]

On 3/14/2019 at 2:17 AM, hwinbermuda said:

Don't you dare shut up, your input on the forum is always on my 'must read' list.

Heh, I appreciate that.  But on this topic, I shared what I knew, and now I'm a learnin!  Thanks for laying out the info!

YinTx

[Dbeeksci]

Here's my finished leather-covered early 19th c case. I'll add multiple images.

[bermudahwin]

Whoo hoo, good job.

H

[Dbeeksci]

Here is the relined interior.

[bermudahwin]

That's nice, what's the lining material?

[Dbeeksci]

The original was velvet. This is similar. I put hand-marbled paper on the base.