Help! Need help with gusset of bag

[Setherson]

Hi, I'm relatively new to leather working. I am making the Mrs. a hand bag out of 5-7oz bridle leather. She wants a handbag with a full wrap=around gusset, somewhat similar in concept to the one attached: 

I have 2 questions: with bridle leather of this weight, should I be trying to form the edge of the gusset so it will bend 2 ways (around the bag, but also the edge folding up for the stitching)? As well, how do you keep the front and back panel flat, and only have the gusset bend where they are stitched together? I'm worried that the front and back panel will curl out around the stitching, if that makes sense.

[Sheilajeanne]

My suggestion would be for the gusset to be a lighter weight leather than the rest of the bag, to allow it to bend more easily. That should solve your problems!

I really don't understand why the gusset would have to bend in 2 directions. It only needs to bend inwards. You do not fold the edge over for stitching. It is stitched flat to the front and back of the bag.

 

[fredk]

Either, as Sheilajeanne suggests, use a lighter leather, or skive the edge of the gusset leather. Skive about 8 or 9mm wide strip along each edge, for a 6mm join. Wet the leather and fold the skived edges outwards, towards the grain side. When that is dry glue this skived edge to the front or back panel and sew up. The leather gusset should follow the bag's curved bottom fairly easily. You'll need to glue up and clamp as you work round