Rebadged Singer

[Bellflory]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I bought a 168w101 from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Why don't you call them and ask how much they would charge for a timing belt for it? The number is: 866-362-7397

Thanks Wiz, I will do that.

[Bellflory]

2 hours ago, Matt S said:

I can't find a copy of the 168W parts manual online, but the user manual shows changing the timing belt. I think it's something I would pay a professional to do.

For Singer-produced machines (which both of your machines are, rather than Singer-badged Seikos or Adlers) take the serial number and look it up here: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

I have a parts manual, it's pretty thorough. If I can get the wheel off, I think I can get it changed.  The trick will be getting that bad dad loose.  Might be worth it to invest in a wheel puller. It's pretty dirty so I pretty much have to go all the way through it anyway.

[Gymnast]

1 hour ago, Bellflory said:

Might be worth it to invest in a wheel puller

Perhaps you can lent one from your local auto repair shop, or they may help you. A puller is a standard Tool for them.

[Evo160K]

9 hours ago, Bellflory said:

I have a parts manual, it's pretty thorough. If I can get the wheel off, I think I can get it changed.  The trick will be getting that bad dad loose.  Might be worth it to invest in a wheel puller. It's pretty dirty so I pretty much have to go all the way through it anyway.

Bellflory,

My nerves wouldn't handle a puller, so I called in a SM mechanic who made it look simple: first he took out the grub screws and poured penetrating oil or something into the holes and around the shaft.  Next, and this is the trick part, he jammed a square wooden stick into the top front of the machine, so the wheel couldn't be turned over.  Then he twisted the wheel back and forth while pulling on it... didn't take any time at all and it was off.  

Edited September 30, 2019 by Evo160K

[Bellflory]

21 hours ago, Gymnast said:

Perhaps you can lent one from your local auto repair shop, or they may help you. A puller is a standard Tool for them.

Great idea!

[Bellflory]

On 9/29/2019 at 11:10 AM, Matt S said:

I can't find a copy of the 168W parts manual online, but the user manual shows changing the timing belt. I think it's something I would pay a professional to do.

For Singer-produced machines (which both of your machines are, rather than Singer-badged Seikos or Adlers) take the serial number and look it up here: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

well Matt I got the timing belt on & timed. It wasn't too bad after I got the wheel off. This machine is DIRTY, but so far it's cleaning up nicely. Now on to the front and the post, tensioner and finishing timing.

[Bellflory]

On 9/29/2019 at 11:10 AM, Matt S said:

I can't find a copy of the 168W parts manual online, but the user manual shows changing the timing belt. I think it's something I would pay a professional to do.

For Singer-produced machines (which both of your machines are, rather than Singer-badged Seikos or Adlers) take the serial number and look it up here: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

 

On 9/29/2019 at 10:56 AM, Wizcrafts said:

I bought a 168w101 from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Why don't you call them and ask how much they would charge for a timing belt for it? The number is: 866-362-7397

Hey All, I got the 168W disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. It makes a beautiful stitch. My question, I installed a Reliable 6000sm brushless servo and it seems to power the machine pretty well, but I have to hand turn the wheel to get it started. I used to have to do that with my old Consew 18, but it had a loose clutch motor.  When I hand-start it with the balance wheel, it sews  3 layers of 5oz leather beautifully.  Do you think the servo is underpowered for this beast of a machine, or would that be usual for a machine this heavy?  It's just the servo, no speed reducer or synchronizer. Without the motor attached it turns but takes a bit of effort, not as easy as the smaller 18 or singer 17-23.  Thanks for all your help!

[Wizcrafts]

8 hours ago, Bellflory said:

My question, I installed a Reliable 6000sm brushless servo and it seems to power the machine pretty well, but I have to hand turn the wheel to get it started. I used to have to do that with my old Consew 18, but it had a loose clutch motor.  When I hand-start it with the balance wheel, it sews  3 layers of 5oz leather beautifully.  Do you think the servo is underpowered for this beast of a machine, or would that be usual for a machine this heavy?  It's just the servo, no speed reducer or synchronizer.

I had to add a speed reducer to my Singer 168 that has a servo motor to get it to turn over and penetrate leather when the speed limiter dial was turned way down low, just above the starting position. Otherwise, the knob had to be turned up higher and it was off to the races at startup. With the reducer, it powers the machine at very slow speeds and penetrates anything under the feet without any help from me. Some of these motors have less torque as they begin to spin and the limiter pot is just at the starting position.

The same problem existed on the SewPro 500GR motors I used to use. Its limiter knob had to be turned up about half way to get it to turn the machine over. It seems to be a controller design problem. Maybe the Chinese motor builders need to design (or steal) a different type of signal modulation controller to get more starting torque at very slow speeds. However, that may produce more heat, requiring a metal box instead of the common plastic in common use.

[Bellflory]

5 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I had to add a speed reducer to my Singer 168 that has a servo motor to get it to turn over and penetrate leather when the speed limiter dial was turned way down low, just above the starting position. Otherwise, the knob had to be turned up higher and it was off to the races at startup. With the reducer, it powers the machine at very slow speeds and penetrates anything under the feet without any help from me. Some of these motors have less torque as they begin to spin and the limiter pot is just at the starting position.

The same problem existed on the SewPro 500GR motors I used to use. Its limiter knob had to be turned up about half way to get it to turn the machine over. It seems to be a controller design problem. Maybe the Chinese motor builders need to design (or steal) a different type of signal modulation controller to get more starting torque at very slow speeds. However, that may produce more heat, requiring a metal box instead of the common plastic in common use.

Thanks Wiz, I'll look into a speed reducer. I'm not much of a fabricator, so I think I'll call Toledo and see if they have something I can use. 

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, Bellflory said:

I'll call Toledo and see if they have something I can use. 

LOL. That's where I get all my motors and reducers.