Which needle and thread

[hughlle]

Merry Christmas all. 

Finally getting around to sorting some stuff out. My initial aim is to make up a few watch straps, a pouch for a couple of pens, and a simple card wallet.

I'm struggling to work out just what tools I should get. That is to say, I know the type of tools I need, but not which brand, or size. For instance, needle and thread. Having only the internet as a reference, I'm struggling to visualise whether I would be wanting 0.5mm, or 0.8mm. Or which brand (for instance I've seen thread going from £1 a spool to £20 a spool). I had originaly been thinking of buying this hole punch set https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/diamond-hole-chisel-set but then don't know if there is a certain size needle or thread that is most appropriate for it. 

Bit of a minefield

[Tugadude]

Some leatherwork is unfortunately a matter of trial and error.  However, we should be able to give you some help.  I will tell you that some of these questions are able to be found with a search of the forum.  For other questions, specifically about stitching chisels, you can look at Nigel Armitage's website and his youtube videos.  On Nigels website, armitageleather.com, he has posted tons of reviews of both pricking irons and stitching chisels.  He goes into detail on their sizes, stitches per inch and he even recommends what size of thread works best with each tool.

Nigel, and a lot of leatherworkers, love Ritza 25 "Tiger Thread".  It is excellent, available in several sizes and a lot of color choices.  Although in general, you can get by with black, white and tan.  At least I do.

Those specific chisels are not ones I have used.  I own two types of Tandy chisels, the black Craftool ones and the stainless steel Craftool Pro.  They both are really good.

Just judging by the looks of those chisels, I'm thinking you'd be safe with a 0.8mm thread.  Perhaps up to a 1.0mm for the widely-spaced chisels.  But again, trial and error.  You might prefer a "chunky" look, at least on some items, or you might prefer a more refined stitch.

Hope that helps a little bit.  

[hughlle]

Thanks Tugadude,

I did some searching and ended up with some no 2 and no 4 John James needles. Trial and error it shall be. Just trying to avoid the error part of that formula due to the significant impact my tuition fees are having on my income. I'll give that channel a go in a bit.

[Tugadude]

Oh, I forgot about the needles.  I think #2 and #4 will stand you in good stead.  That is another thing Nigel addresses in some of his videos.  

Good luck!

[zuludog]

Hello Hughlle, I think I've seen you before, on another Section!

I've never made any watch straps, and I'm willing to be corrected,  but still, here are some comments - As Tugadude said, it depends on whether you want a chunky look, or a smaller scale pattern of sewing

For chunky, use Craftool stitching chisels - black finish ; either a set as you've indicated, or you can buy them individually...........John James saddler's harness needles, JJ product code L3912 size 002; ...........and 0,6mm thread. This combination is also widely used for other leatherwork, like pouches, sheaths, belts

For something smaller scale/finer, consider Craftool Pro chisels - stainless steel finish; ..............JJ needles L3912 size 004..........thinner thread, about 0,4mm

If you buy Tandy items online they are shipped from USA, but www.identityleathercraft.com is an agent in UK for Tandy, and sells the items mentioned. They are pleasant & helpful if you phone for advice

Ritza/Tiger thread is popular, but I don't like the way it feels/handles. There is also the problem that you can usually only buy it in large reels, eg 0,6mm is 1,000m and about £60

I have used these threads, and I like them both. Both are available in various diameters; shorter reels, but still plenty to try, about £8

YUE FUNG from www.blackmountainsleather.com

AMY ROKE from www.artisanleather.co.uk. They also sell JJ needles

For a short time you can hit stitching chisels with a steel hammer, but this will soon damage them. You need a soft mallet, like hide, wood, or nylon

Be careful when ordering JJ needles, as their sizing system is a bit confusing. You want size 002 or 004, and not size 2/0 or 4/0, which are too big

[hughlle]

2 minutes ago, zuludog said:

Hello Hughlle, I think I've seen you before, on another Section!

I've never made any watch straps, and I'm willing to be corrected,  but still, here are some comments - As Tugadude said, it depends on whether you want a chunky look, or a smaller scale pattern of sewing

For chunky, use Craftool stitching chisels - black finish ; either a set as you've indicated, or you can buy them individually...........John James saddler's harness needles, JJ product code L3912 size 002; ...........and 0,6mm thread. This combination is also widely used for other leatherwork, like pouches, sheaths, belts

For something smaller scale/finer, consider Craftool Pro chisels - stainless steel finish; ..............JJ needles L3912 size 004..........thinner thread, about 0,4mm

If you buy Tandy items online they are shipped from USA, but www.identityleathercraft.com is an agent in UK for Tandy, and sells the items mentioned. They are pleasant & helpful if you phone for advice

Ritza/Tiger thread is popular, but I don't like the way it feels/handles. There is also the problem that you can usually only buy it in large reels, eg 0,6mm is 1,000m and about £60

I have used these threads, and I like them both. Both are available in various diameters; shorter reels, but still plenty to try, about £8

YUE FUNG from www.blackmountainsleather.com

AMY ROKE from www.artisanleather.co.uk. They also sell JJ needles

For a short time you can hit stitching chisels with a steel hammer, but this will soon damage them. You need a soft mallet, like hide, wood, or nylon

Be careful when ordering JJ needles, as their sizing system is a bit confusing. You want size 002 or 004, and not size 2/0 or 4/0, which are too big

Hey again zulu, seems w're cross posting. 

I've not used any thread, needles, nada, so it'll all be a learning curve, and hey, what works for some doesn't work for others. I was able to get the ritza thread for £6 per 25m spool. I tend to like my watch straps with no linear stitching, and just 2 heavy duty stitches each side of the loops. can always pick up some 0.6mm if the 0.8 is ungainly. I tend to be outdoorsy oriented, so rugged and dependable is more my kind of thing.

As per the other thread, thanks for the links. I didn't know that Identify were agents for Tandy, but worth bearing in mind. While the shipping for my order from Tandy was £12 for 2 day air, the items are also cheaper, for instance eco-weld is £9.70 compared to £13.50. So guess it depends on the amount of stuff I'm placing an order for. 

I read about the needle sizes in a thread somewhere, so made sure to get 002 and 004 from jjneedles.

 

Thanks again for the advice.