Flat Plate Riggings

[kseidel]

JW, There are more thicknesses of leather under your leg in a flat plate versus an in-skirt. The skirt and skirt plug, as well as two thicknesses of flat plate rigging leather. An in-skirt has the thickness of the skirt and the rigging layer, and no more. No need for skirt plug or rigging liner. Also, only one thickness of leather outside the tree as opposed to two with flat plate. The photo from Jon shows a good rigging design, but I would advise combining the front and reat riggings together in one piece of leather. If constructed properly, I believe the in-skirt to be stronger and more comfortable than any other.I have specs on depth if you want more info. Keith

[timjtodd]

Keith,

Why no skirt plug? And I would be interested in the specs on depth. Also, do you have any photos?

Edited February 14, 2008 by timjtodd

[kseidel]

Keith,

Why no skirt plug? And I would be interested in the specs on depth. Also, do you have any photos?

Timjtodd,

The skirt only needs to be two thicknesses. The layer of the skirt on the bottom plus the layer of the rigging on the top gives you the two thicknesses that the skirt needs to be finished. There is no need for a skirt plug. You do need to plug the back corner of the skirt behind the rigging.

It is best to drop the rigging below the depth of a normal skirt. About 6 inches below the bar of the tree to the bottom of the rigging ring minimum, to a maximum of 8.5 inches. Dropping the rigging too low can interfere with the horses performance. Not low enough and the rigging does not wrap around the barrel of the horse far enough to avoid contact with the riders leg. (stirrup leathers rub on latigo wraps) On a shallow skirt you may need to cut the skirt shape to be dropped in front similar to a flat plate. There is quite a bit of leeway here, but these are my findings from hundreds of various in-skirt and flat plate riggings.

Attached are a couple of pictures of in-skirt riggings. Hard to see with stirrup fenders in the way. All the saddles pictured are drop front in-skirt rigged.

[jwwright]

Thanks a million Keith.

[timjtodd]

Thanks Keith. Great info.

[tnestes]

Been quite a bit of discussion about riggin types and positions lately, which is how it usually is when saddle makers and cowboys get together..........especially coming from widely varying cattle cultures and geographies. It's been great reading.

One of the draw backs, at least from my experience, with a flat plate rigging is the additional leather under the leg......although I have always appreciated the more even pull on the bars and stability they afford. I would like to hear other's thoughts on the construction of the plate itself, as well as skirts, etc...............methods you have found helpful to minimize the extra bulk associated with a flat plate rigging. Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I've heard arguments against the flat plate rigging (which is anything but "flat) from several circles. It is undeniably very strong, but the facts are that it adds not only bulk, but additional weight, too. Herb Bork makes a number 100 ring rigging that's a combination dee and "o" ring that I really like, (more importantly, should I say, that my customers like!). The supporting leather (that attaches to the tree) wraps around a flat section of the ring for even "pull" when cinching up or roping- like a regular dee. But the rest of the ring is round with a huge connector for the leather going to the cantle and back ring. I connect mine with four stainless steel screws on each side of the front of the tree, along with a few nails. For strength, I'd put this up against anything. Also, I like to to observe saddles in retrospect. There have been more cows and steers roped of of saddles with rings and dees than plate rigged saddles ever thought about. I don't have anything against a flat plate rigging, it's just that I don't think it's necessarily the "only" way to go.

Ted N. Estes

www.estessaddlery.com

[tnestes]

Hello,

I've heard arguments against the flat plate rigging (which is anything but "flat) from several circles. It is undeniably very strong, but the facts are that it adds not only bulk, but additional weight, too. Herb Bork makes a number 100 ring rigging that's a combination dee and "o" ring that I really like, (more importantly, should I say, that my customers like!). The supporting leather (that attaches to the tree) wraps around a flat section of the ring for even "pull" when cinching up or roping- like a regular dee. But the rest of the ring is round with a huge connector for the leather going to the cantle and back ring. I connect mine with four stainless steel screws on each side of the front of the tree, along with a few nails. For strength, I'd put this up against anything. Also, I like to to observe saddles in retrospect. There have been more cows and steers roped of of saddles with rings and dees than plate rigged saddles ever thought about. I don't have anything against a flat plate rigging, it's just that I don't think it's necessarily the "only" way to go.

Ted N. Estes

www.estessaddlery.com

I'm going to add this in here, too. I FULLY DISAGREE WITH ANYONE SAYING THAT AN "INSKIRT" RIGGING IS THE STRONGEST RIGGING!!! I have NEVER heard that until reading this forum. Ray Holes was noted for advising people wanting working saddles to stay away from in-skirt riggings. I agree, and it does not really matter "how" they are put in in the long run. They will eventually pull out under heavy use. I lost count of how many I've repaired and replaced, and they were all constructed using different methods, but the one thing they ALL had in common, THE RIGGING PULLED OUT- PERIOD. I believe they are the WEAKEST rigging. As a saddle maker, though, I'll say this, too. The in-skirt rigging is the easiest method on the maker. HMMMMMMMM???