Watch strap lining

[Dunluce]

I have been practising doing a few watch straps lately and i wondered if there is a preferred leather to use for the lining. Any one have any preferences or is there a particular leather that is good to use next to the skin?

[Danne]

I prefer Haas Zermatt. It's available in two colors natural and black. (You can't buy from Haas unless you want to buy 70m2/color.)

The only reseller I know that have it in black is RML. 

Degermann also produce Zermatt and another lining called Vat-alsavel in four colors (See photo) I have never tried Vat-alsavel, but I really like Haas Zermatt. You can see photos of this lining on my imgur. Or you can look at Hermès watch straps, they use Zermatt.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/haas-zermatt-calf-leather-3-0-oz-1-2mm-made-in-france?variant=13776240935021 

 

Degermann - Vat alsavel

 

A photo of the Zermatt lining on my latest bund strap. 

Edited August 13, 2020 by Danne

[Dunluce]

Danne, thanks for the info. It does look nice: I might give it a go. Would you use it at the 1.4 - 1.6 mm it comes in or would you thin it down. Say 0.8mm?

[Danne]

2 hours ago, Dunluce said:

Danne, thanks for the info. It does look nice: I might give it a go. Would you use it at the 1.4 - 1.6 mm it comes in or would you thin it down. Say 0.8mm?

I make my straps from top layer 1mm, and lining 1mm, if I want thicker straps I can build it up with padding or full widths layers of leather in the middle. But if I had a splitting solution, sure I would make some thicker straps with like 1.5mm top layer and 1.5mm lining. But the thing is a lot of watch cases don't have clearance (between the case and the spring bar) enough for 1.5mm so that's also something to take into consideration.

Edit: Depending on the type of strap I also add reinforcement. For a flat strap I add 0.2mm reinforcement to the top layer the whole length. On padded straps I reinforce the lining and around the folds, but in those cases I use thinner reinforcement, and usually not all the way out to the edges except at the folds, if that make sense. Also it depends on the leather you are using. A veg tan strap in 1mm top layer and 1mm zermatt lining is quite durable, but it will over time stretch both at the long part with the holes, and at the lugs and leave a small gap. (If not reinforced at all) There are probably exceptions here, like I haven't worked with Shell Cordovan, it might not stretch at the lugs at 1mm.

Edited August 13, 2020 by Danne

[Dunluce]

Danne, again thanks for the info. I will have to try some of the tips you have given. Here is my latest attempt. Alran caviar goat 1.2mm, some soft read leather 1.2mm (not sure what it is) with some 0.45mm Texan reinforcement.

Edited August 13, 2020 by Dunluce

[Danne]

1 hour ago, Dunluce said:

Danne, again thanks for the info. I will have to try some of the tips you have given. Here is my latest attempt. Alran caviar goat 1.2mm, some soft read leather 1.2mm (not sure what it is) with some 0.45mm Texan reinforcement.

Nice and looks like a suitable thickness for that watch. I have never used Texon. I use reinforcements from Freudenberg, Stilla and Jaeger

[Dunluce]

35 minutes ago, Danne said:

Freudenberg, Stilla and Jaeger

More names I have never heard of. I will have to look these up as well!