Wetforming and water based dye

[Randatso]

I'm thinking of trying to do some wetforming to get some pauldrons to set better. I was planning on doing all the tooling first because that seems to be the way to do it. Wondering if I should even bother with the Tandy Eco fl water based dye I have though as I've had other issues with it. My other options are Tandy Cova color acrylic and Tandy Waterstains. I know I should invest in some oil dye but that is what I have and am broke these days.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

[Alaisiagae]

You'd need to dye after waterforming it, of course. What kind of issues have you had with the Eco-Flo? I use Eco-Flo, so maybe I've run into the same thing and have a solution you can try.

You may find the tooling (depending on what it is and where it is on the piece) may distort if, for example, it is on a bend or crease.

[Randatso]

The biggest problem I run into is a lot of the dye coming off when I apply the finish, in my case has been Eco-flo satin sheen. It has been an especially big issue when I have more than one color because they bleed into each other. I've also had the issue of the color lightening up a lot and becoming blotchy after applying the finish when it was a nice solid color before the finish.  Any suggestions on how to stop or minimize this effect would be very welcome.

Edited September 3, 2020 by Randatso

[Sinbad395]

I have done a fair amount of dyeing with Eco Flo water colors and have run into the same thing. My best results are after I let the piece dry for at least 24 hrs preferably 48. I'm in S Texas and it can be quite humid. I then buff with a terrycloth or wool cloth to get any excess dye off the surface. The first coat of finish ( I use Super Sheen) is applied with a wool dauber and extremely light. A small pump bottle mister also works well.   Again dry dry dry. 2nd coat is heavier and the the finish should be complete.

[Alaisiagae]

I wait at least a few hours for the last coat of dye to dry. Then I pour a little Super Shene on a slightly damp sponge (1x2 inches). I apply in circular motion to avoid blotchiness. I wipe around the area a few times to spread everything evenly. If there are bubbles, that means there is too much Shene. I use a spare sponge pie e to wick it up. Use light coats, wait at least a few minutes between each coat. If you have multiple colors, yes, the dye picks up the excess surface pigments. So, first you will want to resist one color with the Shene. Use several coats (3 or more). Then apply the Shene to the other color and try to avoid the first color. If you have intricate details, you can use a small taklon bristle painters brush to apply the Shene. I have used Fiebings Pro Resist to resist dyed areas, it works well and doesnt seem to have much dye pick-up, but is very glossy after a few coats. I also like using NeatLac for resists and finishing.