Beginner Saddle Making

[D2Leatherwork]

Hey everyone! I’ve been doing leatherwork for a couple years now and have been really pushing to make custom saddles, I’ve ready over the Stohlman Encyclopedia of saddle making and watched Jeremiah watts videos and I’ve been repairing saddles for awhile now and I’d just like to know where to start? I know this is a super wide topic considering I don’t have a specific area I want to cover but become a saddle maker is something I’ve always wanted to become and be. If anyone could maybe help direct me into certain tree makers, or what tools work better than others or even the smallest bit of advice, I’d appreciate it more than you would believe, thank you for your time!

[Squilchuck]

I've made four. First one I decided to make the Stohlman #1 saddle and follow the detailed and excellent instructions and tool list.  Lots of ways of doing things, so simpler to follow "the recipe" the first time if you don't have a teacher, even though its said some of his methods are old fashion especially all-leather ground seats. Since then I've mixed up methods from Watt and Adams (eg fitting seat, cutting patterns) to find methods that work for me. For trees, three of the saddles have custom Bowden trees made from measurements taken w Dennis Lane system w my horses. Other custom tree makers using the DL system are more expensive. I've been satisfied w Bowden trees. Another tree is a Timberline wade, which is nice and Randy will work w you to get the right tree. I only use Herman Oak 11/13oz #1 skirting leather.  My farrier, who has made saddles for 40 years, gave me plenty of advice. Lots of good advice in the archives of this group, too.   Good luck! -John

[D2Leatherwork]

On 9/6/2020 at 10:06 AM, Squilchuck said:

I've made four. First one I decided to make the Stohlman #1 saddle and follow the detailed and excellent instructions and tool list.  Lots of ways of doing things, so simpler to follow "the recipe" the first time if you don't have a teacher, even though its said some of his methods are old fashion especially all-leather ground seats. Since then I've mixed up methods from Watt and Adams (eg fitting seat, cutting patterns) to find methods that work for me. For trees, three of the saddles have custom Bowden trees made from measurements taken w Dennis Lane system w my horses. Other custom tree makers using the DL system are more expensive. I've been satisfied w Bowden trees. Another tree is a Timberline wade, which is nice and Randy will work w you to get the right tree. I only use Herman Oak 11/13oz #1 skirting leather.  My farrier, who has made saddles for 40 years, gave me plenty of advice. Lots of good advice in the archives of this group, too.   Good luck! -John

Thank you so much I really appreciate it!!!!

[EdOdgers]

This is a great time to learn saddle making.  There are a lot of resources available and folks are willing to help.  It wasn't that way 25+ years ago.  Try to find a mentor that does quality work and is willing to answer your questions, give you honest feedback, and help you work out problems.   You mentioned that you watched the Watt DVD.  If you don't already own it, you'll probably want to invest in it or one of the other good DVDs by Mecum, Schwarz, Harwood, etc.  You'll need to review and revisit the videos many, many times as you work through your first few saddles.  Plan to attend the Rocky Mountain Leather Show in Sheridan, WY next May and take all of the workshops that interest you.  You'll also be able to shop for hard to find tools and materials there and meet saddle makers and leather-workers of every skill level from all over the world.  Every few years TCA has a saddle workshop in Oklahoma City that shouldn't be missed.  To learn about trees, study the wealth of posts on Rod and Denise Nikkel's website and buy their DVD.  It's well worth your time and money.  As far as tools go, that could be a long, long discussion.   Buy quality tools.   Invest in sharpening equipment/materials and develop the skills to keep your tools SHARP.  One very important tool that is often overlooked is your draw-down stand.  Spend the time to make a good one.  It needs to fit a tree the way the tree fits a horse.  It's also important to have the tree sit level on the stand as if it were on a horse.  Choose a style of saddle that you admire most and find the best examples by master makers.  Study those examples carefully and try to emulate them successfully before striking out with your own style.    That will emerge soon enough.  Sketch your saddle designs in detail and list out all of the specifications.  Get very good at the basics and building a high quality, good looking plain saddles before investing your time in learning the decoration (tooling, stamping).  You can put lipstick on a pig but it's still a pig.  Use the best materials you can get, especially the trees.  You'll never build a saddle better than the tree.  Get in the habit of objectively evaluating your work.  Make a list of things you did well and those that need improvement after each saddle.  Never utter the phrase "good enough."  Finally, because there are a lot of resources and folks willing to help, it doesn't mean its all good.  Pick your resources and mentors carefully.  You can learn from everyone but often its what not to do.  You've probably already figured that out when repairing tack-store saddles.  Good luck and have fun.

[Buyer]

Guys, What is the cost to buy a custom design saddle from one of you gentlemen. 

[EdOdgers]

Buyer;  Prices for a custom saddle are going to vary considerably.  Most makers have a "base" price and a listing of extras.  Evaluate each maker's "base" price carefully and note what is included.  For some the base price is a ready-to-ride saddle with all of the amenities most folks would want, minus tooling and silver.  For others, the base price is low-balled to get your attention and by the time you add the essential "extras,"  the price is comparable to the other maker.  Quality of materials may vary a lot too, especially the tree.  Current tree prices in custom saddles might range from $350 to $800 and up.  The saddle can't be any better than the tree and the difference in quality is considerable.  You really need to know who made the tree and how it's going to fit the horse.   The style of the fork is usually all that most shoppers will know about the tree but that's the least important in the long run.  Workmanship, artistry, attention to detail all will vary with each maker as well.  Also, the reputation of the saddle maker has to be considered as it is an indicator of quality and will affect resale. 

Other things to consider are: the maker's wait-time;  to what extent they welcome you in the design process;  are they able to help you fit your horse(s);  do you like the style or look of their saddles;  do you like the seat they build into the saddle;  are they able to answer all of your questions and help you choose the features you will value?  You've got to feel good about the process as well as the final product.  Of course, you need to evaluate what your needs are too.  Do you know what you want and appreciate top quality or are you a beginning saddle buyer that is likely to be learning what you need and want?   IMO the best reason to commission a custom built saddle is because you have specific desires and needs for your saddle and you want to be part of designing it.  If this isn't the case, with some diligent searching you can find  a  good quality used saddle that is deeply discounted from the "custom" price. 

In my estimation, you can find a good to great saddle maker with legitimate base prices in the 3,500 to 5,000 plus range.  If you want a high quality saddle, I'd be leery about makers priced much lower.  Given the cost of quality materials (my material input cost at wholesale prices is now about $2,100 with premium trees), I would have to wonder how and why they are able to do it.  You can't make a silk purse with a sows ear.

[Try1234]

I just joined the group and consider myself blessed to be among some of our country's best.