Never addressed technique - Proper way (Bended thick lining)

[NMendes]

Hi all!

 

I'm making a leather purse  similar in shape to Saint-Laurent (attached image) and i'm having trouble deciding how to properly cut/attach the leather lining, let me explain.

Because of the inclined parts,  the lining (3oz) when folded goes beyond the lines of the external leather, and some people for that reason "glue in curve" like here :

 

https://www.raworkshop.art/leatherwork 

( second and third project / Glass case and wallet)

 

and here (13mn07)

https://youtu.be/or1Trz-Dv1M?list=PLY7EKQ5bXVhRlg5aXktVLTHcJVn0Y_QeT&t=787

 

So they can know how much to trim afterward, and some just sue the 2 parts on a flat surface and fold the project at the final stage like here :

https://youtu.be/2Vgkja8w0ow?t=863 

 

What is the proper way? I'm not using glue but double tape to keep the pieces in place, the problem i have with trimming lining after folding it is that you don't have the exact measurements from the beginning so you kind of go with the flow, and that can mess with the placement of your hardwares (magnets / buttons).

What if my lining and external leather have the exact same size? Will there be too much "air" between layers when folding the bag ?

 

I hope i'm being clear, sorry in advance if the formulation is messy, i'm French..


Thank you all in advance!

 

[NMendes]

And here is Dior using the "flat" technique for the folding part (@1mn00), so i guess i should not worry too much right?
What do you guys think?

 

[RockyAussie]

You can see at about 40 seconds in where they are forming the curve for the lid over a wooden piece and that the lining is a little over size which would go onto be trimmed off later.

The Saint-Laurent purse above is folded on the lining edge (great then no edging colour is needed) which means that the exact size of all of the pieces have to come together just right.

The base fold you need to allow for a 180 degree fold as it does not need to open as much and the lid you need to only allow a 90 degree fold as that has to open and close.

To some degree you need to get the thickness of all the materials used in the making and put this together on a strip at say 20mm (3/4") wide and fold and trim it as that is then your ruler guide.

Warning.. the Dior bag construction is way easier to get than the purse with the folded bottom but if you need to put fittings in first then that is the way to go as shown a bit in a couple of pictures of bags below that I make pretty regularly.

This is showing the lining section ready to go in to the outer section behind it -